The cave dwellers of southern Tunisia; recollections of a sojourn with the Khalifa of Matmata;

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THE

CAVE DWELLERS

OF

SOUTHERN TUNISIA

RECOLLECTIONS OF A SOJOURN WITH THE

KHALIFA OF M ATM ATA

TRANSLATED FROM THE DANISH OF

DANIEL BRUUN

KY

L. A. E. H.

London: W. THACKKR & CO., 2 Creed Lane, E.C.
Calcutta: THACKER, SPINK, & CO.

1898

\^AU Rights Reserved]

.39/3

PREFACE

My journey among the cave dwellers of Southern
Tunisia was essentially one of research, since I was
entrusted by Doctor Sophius Miiller, Director of
the Second Department of the National Museum,
with the honourable task of purchasing ethno-
graphical objects for the said museum.

On submitting this work to the public, it is
incumbent upon me to offer my sincere thanks
to all those who afforded me support and help in
my travels : the Minister of Foreign Affairs, at
whose recommendation Cubisol, the Danish Consul
in Tunis, addressed himself to the French Kegcncy,
and obtained permission for me t.o travel through
the country, and also an escort, guides, etc.
Doctor Muller and Chamberlain Vedel, whose
respective introductions, given from the National
Museum and the Society concerned witli ancient
manuscripts, and addressed to other similar institu-
tions, introduced me not only to these, but also
to those remarkably scientific men, Gauckler and

VI PREFACE

Doctx^r Bertholon, whose frieudsliip I have to thauk
for much iuformation and assistance.

Enghind's Kepresentative in Tunis, Drummond
Hay, may be said to have traced my path through
Tunisia, as, on the basis of his remarkable know-
ledge of both individuals and of relative circum-
stances, he sketched a plan of my journey, from
which I required to make little or no deviation.
The Government and officers in El Arad, the
officials, both military and civilian, showed me the
greatest hospitality, and assisted me in the highest
degree ; Colonels Billet and Gousset especially claim
my warmest gratitude.

Much of what I have recorded has been left in
its original form, namely, as letters written home,
some to my wife, some to other persons, as, for
instance, to the publisher, Ilerr Ilegel. 1 have not
altered these lest tliey might lose the fresh impres-
sion under which they were wi-itten. Several poi*-
tions were composed with a view to pul)lic4ition in
the French journal the lievuc Tvnisienne, and in
the Parisian ma^fazine fjc Tour du Monde,

The ilhistrations were obtained from various
sources. Albert, the photogra|>her in Tunis,
obligingly allowed me to make use of a number
of photographs, from which were chielly drawn
the views of the town and of the sea - coast.
With a detective camera I myself took some

PREFACE vii

instantaneous photographs on the journey from
Gabes to the mountains, of which a number are
introduced. Besides these, Mr. Knud Gamborg
has engraved some drawings of my own. Mr.
Gauckler also gave me the free use of the sketches
ah-eady published in his Collection Beylicale, from
which were selected the pictures of the villages in
the Matmata mountains. Lastly, from the wife of
Consul Henriksen at Sfax I received two paintings,
which are reproduced.

When, in the spring, I made an expedition to
Greenland, I left my manuscript wdth my friend
Doctor Kragelund, of Hobro, who had already
afforded me his assistance, and gave him full
powers to arrange the somewhat heterogeneous
materials. In my al>sence he corrected the proofs
ius they came from the press, and has therefore
taken a very important part in my work, and
enabled it to be published in its present form.
For this act of friendship I tender him my
warmest thanks.

Daniel Bhuun

November 1894,

Note. — The ftict of three years having elapsed
since the Danish original of the Cave Dwellers was
published, renders the letter form of which the

viii PREFACE

author speaks somewhat unsuitable for translation.
It has been necessary, therefore, in many cases to
modify that foim, and also to omit certain passages
in the work as being of little or no interest to
English readers.

CONTENTS

(HAP. PAOB

I. WITH DRUMMOND HAY IN TUNIS .... 1

II. 8USA .......««>

III. FROM 8FAX TO GABfis . . . . .17

IV. FROM GABE8 TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS . . 32
V. RETURN TO GAB£8 ...... 59

VI. OF THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS AND THEIR INHABITANTS . 93

VII. FROM GAB^ TO THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA — THE SHOTTS . IIG

VIII. THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA ..... 129

IX. OVER AGLAT MERTEBA TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS . 152

X. BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ . . . .158

XI. OVER THE MOUNTAINS AND ACROSS THE PLAIN FROM

HADEIJ TO MI-rrAMER . .197

XIL METAMER AND MEDININ .217

XIII. SOUTHWARDS OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN 233

XIV. DUIRAT ....... 243

XV. THE TUAREG ...... 253

XVI. BACK TO TUNIS ...... 274

XVII. TUNIS ....... 285

SUPPLEMENT— THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA : A 8VN0I»SI8 . 292

COSTUMES — THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN . 324

POSTSCRIPT ....... 334

u

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE BEY OF TUNIS .....

DUUMMOND HAY, BRITISH CONSUL-OEXKRAL AT TUNIS

SDSA .....

TWO KHRUMIR WOMEN

AT SFAX .....

TOWER IN THE VILLAGE OF MENZEL

JEWESSES AT MENZEL

ON THE OASIS OF OABKs .

^WASHERWOMEN AT THE JARA BRIDGE

MAP OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA

PLOUGHING — GAB^S

JEWISH FAMILY IN A CAVE DWELLING IN HADEIJ

CAVES IN MATMATA

A CAVE DWELLING, MATMATA

THE BRIDAL FESTIVITIES .

HOLD DP ! .

EXCAVATED STABLE.

BERBER WOMAN OP THE VILLAGE OF JUDLIG

A CAVE INTERIOR ....

FALCONERS .....

MANSUR .....

SECTIONS OP DWELLING IN MATMATA WHERE I LIVED — PLAN

MEDININ .....

BEDOUIN WOMEN GROUPED BEFORE THEIR HUT

AT GAB^ .....

IN THE MOUNTAINS— ON THE ROAD TO AIN HAMMAM

xi

PAOB

Frontispiece

3

8

13

20

24

25

28

30

33

37

43

45

46

49

59

62

65

66

77

100

103

112

113

117

120

Xll

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

REARING ......

CAMEL WITH CANOPY ....

THE BRIDE E8C()RTEI) OVER THE MOUNTAINS
FANTASIA ......

A STREET IN BENI BARKA ....

MEDININ ......

DUIRAT ......

SHENINI ......

A HALT IN THE DESERT — TENT OF A TRIBAL CHIEF
A TUAREG ......

A TUAREG ......

MOORISH WOMEN IN A STREET IN TUNIS .

PAOR

156

IGJi

176

179

219

224

245

248

251

254

262

289

\

THE CAVE DWELLERS OF
SOUTHERN TUNISIA

CHAPTER I

With Drummond Hay in Tunis

Though the micldny sun still shone bright aiul hot,
I sat at my ease and breathed again in the pleasant
atmosphere of a cool drawing-room, from which the
stifling air and the flics were excluded by closely
drawn blinds.

I had just arrived from Tunis by rail, over
the scorching hot plain, and past the milky-white
shallow lagoon known as the Lake of Tunis. Be-
yond Goletta the blue hills seemed to quiver
l)eneath the rays of the sun, and my eyes were
blinded by the dazzling white walls of the cathedral
standing on the heights, where, in olden days, Byrsa,
the fortress of Carthage, stood, defying the invader
and the storm.

As we sped over the traces of the mighty
circular wall, wdiich formerly enclosed the town, 1

2 CAVE DWELLERS

caught a glimpse of a white roof amongst the greeu
trees of a wood, and requested the conductor to
stop the train at the English Consul's summer
abode.

Dow-n a pretty shady avenue I walked to the
white summer palace, with its beautiful columned
portico, the finest in all Tunisia.

It is a proud name that my host bears, — a
name associated w-itli unfailing honour in the
history of Morocco. His late father. Sir J. H.
Drummond Hay, as England's Representative, prac-
tically led Moroccos policy during the past forty
years. He represented Dennmrk also, and under
him his son won his diplomatic, spurs.

My host had invited me that we miirht (juietly
arrnnge a plan for my intended expedition to visit
the Berl)er tril)es of Tunisia.

I was aw\are that in the south-west mountains
of the Sahara I should meet with Berl)ers of a pure
race such as are scarcely to be found elsewhere.
Our country's excellent Hepresentative, Consul
Cubisol, had procured me a French permit for
the journey, without which it would be ditKcult for
a lonely traveller to visit regions unfrequented by
Europeans.

In the spring, Drummond Hay had made a tour
on horseback over the greater ])art of Southern
Tunisia ; he was therefore acquainted, not only with

WITH DRUMMOND HAY IN TUNIS

the Iot;aIitics, but also with several of the native
chiefs who would be able to assist luc. He under-
stands the people and their country thorouglily, for
he speaks Arabic like a native, iind is (juite con-
versant with the life, opinions, mannei-s, and
customs of the in-
habitants. His wife
hiul travelled far and
wide witli him in
Morocco when he was
serving under his
father, and aceom-
piinied him to the
capital of Morocco ;
so she also is well
versed in Oriental life.

To<iether we trace
the plan of my jour-
ney, which, in tlie
main, I afterwards
followed. Here I
will not anticipate

what I shall relate later ; only premising this —
that I owe first and foremost to Drummond Hay
the fact of having comprised in my journey those
regions which no traveller has as yet described. To
iiim I was also afterwards indebted for the elucidation
and explanation of what 1 bad seen and heard.

4 CAVE DWELLERS

Both my host and hostess liad resided for many
years in Stockholm, when Drummond Hay was
Consul there. The north has great attractions for
them, as Drummond Hay's mother was a Dane, a
Carstensen, being daughter of the last Danish
Consul-General at Tangier.

England has great interests in Tunis, not only
directly on account of the many Maltese living
there under British protection, but also in-
directly, more especially since the Frencli settled
in the country ; it will therefore be understood
that the post of British Representative is one of
confidence.

CHAPTER II

SUSA

'' A HAPPY journey until our next meeting, and
may Allah preserve you from eliolera ! "

These were the parting words of my friend
Gauckler, Inspector of Antiquities and Arts, who
bade me a last farewell at the Italian railway station
of Tunis.

Numbers of ftaminsjoes stalked alon<j: the shores
of the lagoon, showing like white patches on the
l)lue-grey expanse of water. Out on the liorizon.
where the lake ended, I could see Goletta's white
houses, and beyond them a deep, dark blue line —
the Mediterranean.

At midday the heat was stifling, but after we
reached Goletta Bay the sun sank rapidly, and the
air o^rew cooler as a little steamer took us through
the entrance to the harbour, past the liomevvard-
bound fi8binor-})oats. Just at sunset we readied
our large steamer. To the north, Carthage/s white
church on the heights near Marsa appeared on the
horizon, and, in the south, the l)lue mountiiins of
Hammamlif.

6 CAVE DWELLERS

Amid the noisy whistling of the steamer,
mingled with screams and shouts, I tumbled on
board with my numerous bundles and packages ;
finding my way at last to the saloon, where a frugal
dinner awaited us.

Next morning, when I went on deck, the coast
lay like a fiat, grey stripe ahead of us. I went
forward and enjoyed the fi-esh sea breeze for which
I liad so longed in Tunis. Near the bows of the
ship were two dolpliins. One of them rose to the
surface of the water and spouted a stream of spray
through the little orifice in its head, then sank
again. The other then rose in its turn.

The white bundles on the fore part of the deck
now began to stir into life, and each as it rose
tlirew back its burnous, and showed a dark face.
One Arab had with him his whole family. lie had
s{)rcad a rush mat on which, amongst their numerous
belongings, lay, closely packed, hus])and, wife (per-
haps wives), several children and a large poodle.
A roguish little girl came to discover what I was
contemplating. She was sweet, l)r(>wn, and clean,
and peeped up at me, hiding her facic the wliile
with one hand, evidently conscious of wrong-doing.
The tips of her fingers and toes were sUiined red
with henna, which was not unpleasing. Soon after,
a closely veiled figure, apparently the mother, came
to fetch the little one. I had just time to perceive

SUSA 7

that she was pretty, as she threw })ack a fold of
her haik to wrap round her child and herself. What
a charming picture they made as they leant against
the bulwarks and gazed towards the land !

Upon a slope, quite near, lay Susa — white,
white, everything was white.

On the summit of tlie slope were some towers
and a crenelated wall, and on the seashore beneath,
yet another wall. Below lay the harbour, too
shallow, however, for our ship to enter ; we had
therefore to lie out in the open.

A boat took me to the quay, where some twenty
black-eyed boys of all ages, with gleaming teeth and
red caps, lay watching for tlieir prey. As the boat
drew alongside, thoy rushed down to seize my
luggage. The boatmen attempted to push them
aside, but, nevertheless, one caught up my little
handbag, another my umbrella, and a third my
photographic apparatus. There was nothing for me
to do but to jump ashore and chase the thieves.
It was long l)efore I could collect everything
under the charge of one lad. Then, with a couple
of smart taps right and left, my little guide and I
marched up to the Kasba, where the Commandant
lives. Here are the magazines and barracks, and
here, too, I knew that I should find a collection
of antiquities.

Susa was originally a Phoenician colony, and

8 CAVE DWELLERS

played no small part in the Puiiie Wars. Trajan
called it " Hadrumetum," and made it the capital of
the province. It was laid waste by the Vandals,
rebuilt by Justinian, and destroyed by Sid Obka,
who utilised the greater portion of its ancient
materials to build the holy city of Kairwau. Ijater

the town was rct)uilt l>y tlie Turks, wJin iiad hero
for a long time one of tlicir hiding-plaees for tlicir
piratical Heets. The town was therefore assaulted
by Charles v. in 1537, and again by Andreas Do ria
in 1539, aud, lastly, was occupied without a struggle
ou the 10th of September 1881, by a force under
General Etienne. It is, after Tunis, the most

SUSA 9

important town in the Regency, and is governed
by a Khalifa in the name of the Bey.

Numerous remains of all these periods are to be
found in Susji. In the houses, mosques, and in
the surrounding country, antiquities and ancient
ruins abound. From the Commandant I learnt
tliat the foundations of the Kasba date from the
time of the Phoenicians. Later, the Romans, as
also those conquerors who followed them, built over
these.

In the sallc d'honneur are arranged many
earthen vessels of Phoenician origin found in tombs,
together with other objects of the same period.

From Roman times remain magnificent mosaics,
partly buried in the walls ; vessels, vases, and
broken fragments of marble figures. The Kasl^a
itself, with its many arches, gateways, turrets, and
walls inlaid with tiles, dates from the days of the
Arabs or Turks.

In nearly every instance the mosaics depict
horses, their names being introduced l)cside them.
Evidently, in those days, this was already deemed
an important mart for horses bred in the country.
The breeding of Barbs appears to date further back
than is generally believed, and, in fact, to be older
than the Arabian conquest of this land. One sees
horses depicted with red head-stalls, decorated on
the top with tufts of feathers, and with their near

lo CAVE DWELLERS

quarters branded, exactly as seen on the troop horses
of to-day.

The outlines of the horses on tlie mosaics prove
tliat the Barbs of that period were the same in type
as those of the present age ; also that their careful
treatment is not of recent date. Even the same
class of fiat iron shoes is used now, as then, on the
horses' forefeet.

I in(|uired of the Commandant whether particu-
larly fine horses were reared in this region. He
replied in the athrmative, and that in the direction
of Kairwan there arc nomad tribes whose horses are
of noble race.

I climbed the high tower of the Kasha, — now
used as a lighthouse, — whence I overlooked the town
which lay below me encircled by its protecting wall.
Over the country, on all sides, olive woods met my
view, and far away on the horizon I could catch a
glimpse of villages, looking like white specks. There
dwell the ill-disposed tribes who, in 1881, held out
against the J^^rencli. They never venture<l on an
open engagement, but at night assembled in their
hundreds and kei)t uj) an incessant tire on the*. French
lines; killinii; a numl)er of both ollicers and men.
These were avenged by heavy levies and fines on the
inhabitants. Poor peo])le, they had only defended
their hearths and homes.

Mv bov <]:uide followed me through the streets,

SUSA II

where drowsy lazy Moors crouched, half asleep iii
their shops, waiting for purchasers. The loveliest
small boys and girls were lying about in the
streets, much to the obstruction of traffic, here
conducted by means of small donkeys and large
mules.

Stepping into a little Moorish coffee-house, I
found, to my astonishment, that the interior re-
sembled in construction an old Byzantine basilica,
its dome being supported on arches and pillars. The
whole was white-washed, but well preserved. The
coffee-house was named " el Kaunat el Kul)ba," which
may be translated Church Cafe.^ Nothing could be
more artistic than the cooking utensils, mats, and
pottery scattered here and there about this very
old building.

At five o'clock it was dark. The stream of
wayfarers diminished, and the streets were deserted
and empty. I dined at the Hotel de France on the
seashore, not far from the esplanade, and sat after
dinner reading my papers, till I heard a frightful
noise outside, an<l, jieering out, saw a crowd of Aral)S
gathered behind an unfurled l)anner. They shouted
and yelled in measured time. One of them said a
few words which all the others repeated. I was
told that they were praying to Allah for rain. They
halted a few paces from a kubba, called Bab el Bahr,

' More accurately the cotrce-housc of the dome. — Tranj>lator*s Note.

12 CAVE DWELLERS

and the procession dispersed, the banner being taken
into the kubba.

I went for a turn on the seashore by the road
which leads along the walls to Bab el Jedir. The
sun was meltinG; hot. Against the walls were built
a number of mud huts and sheds, in which, amongst
carriages and carts, horses and donkeys were stabled.

Outside were piles of pottery, vessels of all
shapes and sizes, from the largest receptacles for
wine or water — reminding one of those found be-
longing to the Roman age — to cups and jars of spiral
or other strange forms, such as I have seen in the
museum at Carthage.

This clay ware is brought from Nebcl, where,
since very ancient times, there has been a manu-
factory that produces pottery the same to-day as it
was a thousand years ago.

The gateway is deep, and has, as have most gates
in this country, recesses with seats on both sides,
always filled by idlers and beggars. Indeed, it is
quite an Eldorado for the blind, halt, and maimed, as
well as for many who have nothing the matter with
them. The whole day they sit there and stretch out
their hands for alms.

I placed myself near the corner stone of the gate,
where the shade was cool and pleasant ; through the
dark archway I could see the sun blazing on the
shore, and the road looking like a bright streak of

SUSA 15

light, and, beyond it, the liarbour and the beautiful
blue sea.

In the space of half an hour, at least a hundred
little donkeys passed me, laden with vessels of water
or bundles of straw, with often a man or boy perched
behind the load. A solitary rider also passed, his
small but wiry horse going at an amble. Along the
seashore came, picking their way, a herd of goats,
most of them wearing small bells that rang inces-
santly. The herd settled in the corner outside the
gates between the towers and the town wall. Then
came unveiled Bedouin women, dark-skinned almost
as negresses, but with very fine features. Then
other veiled Arab women w^irli black masks that
covered their faces. A number of l)oys follow^ed
these, all good-looking and l)la(*k-eyed. One lield
out his hand ; they are accustomed to European good-
nature, and a copper is a foretaste of Paradise to an
Arab boy.

Lastly passed a strange couple. On an ordinary
Arab saddle a veiled woman rode astride, and behind
her, on her horse, a little boy ; he held the reins in
one hand, and a parasol in the other.

Towards evening it grew^ cooler. Amongst the
shipping lay the Ville cTOran, which next morning
was to take me south. It was lit up with numbers
of lanterns, and the town was illuminated and hunor
everywhere with flags, in honour of the Russian

i6 CAVE DWELLERS

Heet, which that day was to enter Toulon. Festival
was kept, not only all over France, but .also in her
colonies. Illustrated editions of French newspapers,
with coloured pictures of Russian and French
admirals and of the ships of both countries, were
displayed on the walls of all cafes, tobacco shops,
taverns and drinking booths in Susii.

The light on the Kasba had been lit. The moon
rose over the town, and lanterns gleamed along the
seashore and the promenade. The irregular line of
the wall an<i the Kasba tower .showed dark against
the heavens. ^lingling with the ripple of the water
against tlie <|uay, I heard the Marseillaise played,
followed bv cheers, and on the terraces and balconies

ml

a])p(»ared <lark figures, enjoying the cool air and the
musi<*.

CHAPTER III

From Sfax to Gab£s

At 9 a.m. on the morning of the 14th October,
the Ville cVOran weighed anclior and left the
roadstead of Susa in Inilliant weatlier for
Monastir.

Monastir, or Alistir, has a popuhition of nine
thousand inhabitants, of whom one thousand are
Europeans. It was originally a Carthaginian town ;
hiter, the " Ruspina " of the Romans. It is now
surrounded by battlemented walls interspersed with
towers and pierced by five gates. Ornamented with
coloured tiles, the minarets of several mosques rise
here and there above the houses.

I crossed the town from the south to the opposite
side. Here I found an immense cemetery ; grave
upon grave grouped about kubbas. In the very
midst of the cemetery is a cistern, which must
supply remarkably good water !

Following along the walls of the town I soon
reached the beach, where before me lay three small
islands — Jezirel el Hammam (Pigeon Island), Jezirel
Sid Abd el Fairt el R'dani (so called after a Mara-

i8 CAVE DWELLERS

bout whose kubba crowns its summit), and the third
ishind named Jezirel el Austan (Central Ishuid).

Still following the walls, 1 passed Moorish women
and children washinfif clothes on the shore. A num-
ber of boats were lying in the shallow water under
the lea of the islands.

At ten o'clock I w^as again on board, and at
eleven w^e started, steering for Mehdia, some thirty-
six miles farther south.

On the way we passed Cape Diauros, the site of
ancient Thapsus. It was a Carthaginian colony
where fought Caisar Scijjio and Cato. Numerous
ruins recall the old times.

In IMehdia harbour we anchored about three
o'clock. Mchdia was once a very important town ;
now it has only some ten thousand inhabitants. The
Sicilians l)csicged it in 1 147 ; the Arabs in 11(50 ; the
Duke of Bourbon in 1390; and Charles V. in 1557.
^riie knights of Malta took part in this last assault,
and the <:!:rave of one of these knights is still shown.

Some Europeans carry on a trade here in oil,
dried fruits, sponges, coral, and sardines. In the
months of May and June there are often a couple of
hundred boats lying off the shore fishing for sardines,
and generally making good hauls. In one night a
sinrfe boat mav tiike even as much as from four to
six hundredweight of fish.

Large vessels do not follow the coast from

FROM SFAX TO GABES 19

Mchdia to Sfax, but make a long circuit round
the island of Kirkennah, the water along the coast
beinc: shallow. Alon^: this stretch of sea have
been placed light-buoys to mark the course. These
buoys are filled with compressed oil, and burn in-
cessantly day and night. They are constructed to
burn three months, but are inspected monthly.

Early in the morning of the 15th October we
cast anchor about two miles outside Sfax, of which
the white walls glistened in the morning sun. A
steam tug took us ashore. The ebb and flow of
the tide here is very strong, with a possible rise
and fall of as much as eight feet, which accounts
for the flatness of the beach.

The only ship in the roadstead was the Feeder-
landet from Bergen, lying -to and discharging
timber.

Sfax was taken on the 16th July 1881 by a
force under Admiral Oarnault, after a serious
bombardment which laid waste a great part of the
ramparts and the town.

The walls enclosing the European quarter, which
faces the sea, have been pulled down lately, and
here the French have established themselves. To
the rear lies the Arab town, still surrounded by
its walls and towers.

On landing I met the Vice-Consul for Sweden
and Norway, Olaf Henriksen, a young man who in

30 CAVE DWELLERS

tlie course of a few years has made for liimself a
gootl position as partner in the large, and perhaps
sole, firm of timber traders in the place. His

office and warehouses are on the quay. Olsen, his
co-partner, is likewise a Northerner. Henriksen is
agent for the United Shipping Co., but it is seldom
that Danish vessels touch here.

After a stroll through the town, Mr, Henriksen

FROM SFAX TO GABES 21

led me to his liome and introduced me to his wife,
ji Norwegian hidy from Christiania. I spent a
comfortahle and most enjoyable day in their house,
which is outside* tlie town and commands a view
of the harbour.

Mrs. Ilenriksen is a very fair artist. On the
walls hung sketches of her northern home and of
Sfax, painted by herself and showing considerable
talent. The toml)s of Maral)outs, the cemeteries
outside the walls, and the Arab tents in the vicinity
were the subjects that pleased mc most. Slie most
amiably promised to be my colhd)orator, l)y allow-
ing me to make use of a couple of her sketches
for my book.

Sfax is a large town, with about fifty thousand
inhabitants, of whom the eighth part are Europeans.
A considerable trade is carried on in sponges, oil,
and esparto grass, this last being worked by a
Franco-Anglo-Tunisian Company ; in addition to
these, there is a trade in fruit and vegetal )les, more
especially cucumbers, called in Arabic ** Sfakus,"
from which, no doubt, arises the name of the
town.

In the neighbourhood are many villas and
gardens, where the townsfolk take refuge in the
hot season, Imt beyond these is the sandy desert.

In ancient days the Komans had hero a large
city, of which many traces are found. In the

22 CAVE DWELLERS

covered streets I saw arches, which by their capitals
and columns were of Roman origin, and heard of
old Roman graves and foundations being frequently
discovered.

Sftix is a garrison, and amongst the soldiers is
a fine body of Spahis, but at the time of my visit
many were absent at the manoeuvres.

During the night we steamed in four hours
from the roadstead of Sfax to Galjes.

A golden strand : in the l)ackground some white
houses, and to the right a palm grove. Such is the
view of Gabes from the sea.

The landing-place was only a short distance
from the European quarter. I called on the com-
manding officer, Colonel Gousset of the Spahis, to
whom the Regency at Tunis had recommended me,
directing that he should assist me by word and
deed in my journey to the cave dwellers (trog-
lodytes) of the soutliern mountains.

It was the hour of muster, and the Colonel
introduced me to many of the officers, one of w^hom.
Captain Montague of the General's staff, lent me
liis horse, and a Spahi was told off as my guide.

** When one wanders towards the Svrtes and
' Leptis Magna,' one finds in the midst of Afric's
sands a town called Tacape ; the scnl there is much
cultivated and marvellously fruitful. The town
extends in all directions to about three thousand

FROM SFAX TO GABES 2-1

paces. Here is found a fountain with an abundant
supply of water, which is only used at stated times ;
and here grows a high palm, and beneath that palm
an olive, and under that a fig tree. Under the fig tree
grows a pomegrauate, and beneath that again a vine.
Moreover, beneath these last are sown, first oats,
then vegeta})les or grass, all in the same year.
Yes, thus they grow them, each sheltered l)y the
other."

Thus wrote Pliny of the oasis near Gabt^s over
eighteen hundred years ago, and this description
can be applied in the main at the present day.

Of this town, created by the Carthaginiaus,
colonised by the Romans, and later the seat of an
archbishopric, and which stood nearer the ocean
than the existing villages, thi^e remain now only
some crumbled ruins on the hills near Sid Bu'l
Baba s Zauia, now difficult even to trace.

Remains of cisterns can be seen, built with the
imperishable cement of which the Romans ah)ne
understood the preparation. But the stones have
long since been removed to Jara, Menzel, and
Shenini, villages of the oasis, where are still to be
found, in the wretched native buildings, carved
cai^itals and bas-reliefs, side by side with sun-
dried bricks and uncut stones.

But it is long since this old town vanished.
The Arab geographers in the eleventh and twelfth

24 CAVE DWELLERS

eciituricR, as also Leo Africanus in the sixteenth
century, mention Giibes as a large town surrounded
liy walls and deep trenches, which latter could lio
flooded with water. 'I'hey tell \\» of a great fortress
there, and that the town hiid a large population and

extensive siiliurhs. Then the Mohammedan con-
querors laid tlieir iron hand over the country, and
the inhuhitant-s were dispersed and gathered in the
villages .Tara and Monzel, each now containing
some four thousand iulial)itantH. Both villages were
situated near the river and close to the market-place,
and were continually fighting amongst themselves for

FROM SFAX TO GABKS

the pof^scssion of these ; whilst other villages, of
whicli Sliciiini is the largest, concealed themselves
iimidat their palm groves.

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To liKcyt these rival vilhige-s in subjection,
the Turks pi-ceted, just between thoni. a fort
— Borj Jeilia (tlie new fort). It was Mown
up by French niiirinoa on the 21st July 1881,

26 CAVE DWELLERS

when they assaulted, stormed, and seized the
villages.

Later there arose by the seashore, huts, taverns,
and eating-houses, and, after the first occupation,
these formed a place of resort for all sorts of
adventurers, and was therefore wittily named '* Co-
quinville " by the soldiers. Out of this has grown
quite a little town, known as the Port of Gab^s.
This is occupied by the European colony, consisting
of from one to two thousand persons of various
Mediterranean origins. The residence of General
Allegro, the Bey's governor of El Arad, the most
southern district of Tunisia, was originally the only
building on the spot, and here he still resides ; but
now in the long streets there are commandants'
houses, officers' quarters, the Hotel de TOasis, and
a large number of offices of all descriptions. Behind
the town to the south, lie the barracks for the
garrison of Spaliis and infantry. In former days
the troops were quartered farther inland, on a height
near the Gabc^s River, as the water was better ; but
now drinking-water has been brought to the town
from a near-lying oasis.

Wad Gabes, or the Gabe^s River, has its source
about a score of miles inland, and flows over its
broad bed, through saline and lime-charged soil,
down to the oasis, wherefore the water contains
much magnesia, and is in consequence most unwhole-

FROM SFAX TO GAB^S 27

some, and has caused the death of many a young
colonist and soldier. It is said that the age of the
eldest soldier buried in the churchyard was but
five-and-twentv.

In old times the water must naturally have been
as unhealthy as now, but the Komans, those masters
of colonisation, used, on that account, rain water
collected in cisterns. Remains of such tanks are
found everywhere in the south.

The Arab rider, given me as guide, and I
rode along the northern bank of the river so as to
cross the Gabes oasis from the sea to\vards the
interior.

It was the. most enjoyable excursion I can
remember ever having made.

The sea roared behind the sand cliffs, while the
horses panted through the deep sand. From
behind the cliffs appeared the tops of palm trees,
and presently we were in the shade.

The light gleamed through the palm leaves on
lemon, orange, and pomegranate trees, and on the
trailing vines, trained up to the beloved sun, and
stretcjhed from tree to tree in graceful festoons.

In the open spaces between the palms lay the
orcliards, where grew all kinds of fruit trees —
peaches, apples, pears, plums, apricots, figs, olives,
and many others.

The air w^as pregnant with the scent from the

28 CAVE DWELLERS

trees and plants. Beneath the shade of the thick
foliage overhead spread the most beautiful green
swiird, intersected by flowing rivulets of water und
small eiiiuds, dnnimcd by means of dykes and low
banks, as in our own land irrigation.

By small paths and roads we wandered on,
following the turns of the canals, riding sometimes
on a narrow track between two banks, and if we
then met Arabs on their little overladen nudes it
was a squeeze to pass by them.

There was silence amongst the trees. Only now
and then, when we drew near to tents, or some straw

FROM SFAX TO GABES 29

liut concealed amidst the foliage, could we hear
voices and the barking of dogs. Women and
children peeped at us through the branches, and we
saw men in scanty clothing working with hoes in
their gardens, or women weeding the beds and
gathering henna in baskets.

Birds flew from branch to branch, or across the
open spaces. Wood jDigeons called, and turtle-doves
cooed, whilst the chaffinch fluttered about on the
tops of the almond trees, and in the distance the
sound of a shot proclaimed that a sportsman in a
clearing on the borders of the oasis liad fired at hare,
quail, or partridge. On the extreme border, l)y the
sea, was the tomb of a Marabout, built from the
ancient remains of the town of olden days, blended
with new materials. The columns supporting the
entrance were of new rough stone, with handsome
carved capitals.

We emerged on the barren jjlain, and saw in the
far distance, on rising ground, other palm groves,
but hurried back again into the fascinating wood,
till, by paths and over small stone bridges, beneath
which streams rippled sheltered by the arching
palms, we came to a broader road between high
dykes. There it was difficult to advance, as some
artillerymen with baggage carts drawn by mules had
stuck fast in the mud, the waggons being overladen
with stone.

CAVE DWELLERS

The way now turned towards the river. As we
left the palm grove by the miry road to cross the
bridge, the grey walls of a village lay before us oii
the opposite side. The river bank was crowded
with women and children washing ; clothes were
hanging to dry on the bushes, whilst shortly-kilted

figures waded into the water, or sat on the stones by
the river aide beating clothes with fiiit Iwards. Most
of them pretended not to see us, some turned their
backs, and a very few stole roguiah glances at us.

The whole scene was worthy of the brush of a
good artist. The grey-yellow water, the yellow
shore and green wood under the deep blue sky, and

FROM SFAX TO GABES 31

against this background the many-coloured figures
of women and children. All were in constant
movement and chattering loudly.

We rode through the gate. The village consists
of narrow streets and lanes of wretched low houses.
The air was oppressively hot, and dirt was every-
where. My guide rode in front, pushing people
aside with loud exclamations. They submitted
quietly to being hustled ; " Kith to kin is least
kind." Then, again crossing the river, we rode
through the oasis to other villaores and as far as
the poor huts of Shenini, then turned again down
to the stream, which here ran between high banks,
and after visiting, just at nightfall, some encamjv
ments close by, we hastened on our w^ay back to
Gab^s.

CHAPTER IV
From Gab^ to the Matmata Mountains

Crouched in a wretched hut, which seemed to me
then the perfection of comfort, I sat writing by the
light of a flickering candle at the village of Zaraua,
on the top of a mountain of the Matmata range,
south of Gabes.

Outside I could hear my horse munching, iis
he stood, his well-earned barley ; farther away dogs
were barking. The moon sent her rays through my
doorway ; and now and then came to my ear the
sound of human voices, but this soon ceased as the
sun had long since set ; for in these regions all
retire to rest early so as to rise at daybreak.

The two previous days had sped as in a fairy
tale. As I opened my window at the Hotel de
rOasis at 4.30 a.m. on the 17th October, it was
still half-dark, but I could distinguish a little way
down the street an Arab horse, saddled, and by its
side a white bundle lying on the footway. It was
Hamed, the Arab horseman, whom the bureau de
renseignement had placed at my disposal, and who
was now waiting for five o'clock, the hour fixed for

32

» v,

%
,&->

. ^ «

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 35

our start. A little later arrived my brown steed,
supplied by the Spahi regiment.

My small travelling kit, photographic apjDaratus,
and breakfast were packed on Hamed's horse. The
revolver I slung on my own saddle, little realising
that the same afternoon I should fire it on a festive
occasion ; and w^e started, wending our way amongst
the showy, newly-built European houses.

Outside the town, the country is somewhat flat ;
we followed the road. To our right, towards the
north, was Gabt^s' winding river, l)ut invisible to us,
as it lies low. On the other side, the palm groves
showed us a dark forest. The villages by the river
stood out clearly against this dark background, and
the rising sun shone on the white kubba to our left
of Sid Bu'l Baba.

On the road we met little groups of natives
driving camels and tiny donkeys, all laden with
esparto straw. Their houses w^ere many a mile
away over the blue mountains, which were dimly
distinguishable on the horizon, for they came from
Hadeij, our destination, to sell this, about the only
pro<:luct in which they can deal during the hot
summer season.

Now and again we also met small caravans of
donkeys carrying light loads of dry wood.

After a quick trot, that warmed us at this early
chilly hour, we turned to the left in a southerly

36 CAVE DWELLERS

direction, taking a ])ath that wound along slightly
undulating ground. A brace of partridges rose, and
we heard the (juail calling, and saw young larks
running on the barren ground. On a hill to the
north-west we spied the (ramp of Has el Wad,
erected l)y General Boulanger in his day. Once and
again we indulged in a (|ui(rk gallop, but only in
short stretches, when the paths were not muddy or
too winding.

Here an<l there stood a parched olive tree or
date 2)alm, on spots where, in the wet season — if it
ever come — a little water would reach them. We
were overtaken l)y a horseman closely enveloped in
a white l)urnous, the hood drawn over his head and
sticking up in the air in a peak. It was " Amar"
from Iladeij on his slight but wiry pony. He was
accjuaintcd with Hamed, so wished to join us. His
hair, l)eard and eyes were black, his expression good-
natured, with an open l)row, and his teeth milk white.

After two hours' ride, during which we only once
met any people, we reached the oasis of El Hamdu ;
near l)y roamed some miseral)le cattle, grazing under
the care of an old man ; with these were also a
couple of goats.

On the border of the oasis we watered our horses
at a fountain surroun<led by palms. Women peei)ed
shyly at us over the walls of the only stcme Iniilding

of the village that we couM make out.

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 37

Riding oil, w(j passed several tomla of Mara-
I>out8. Oh our left, the palms of the oasis .seoincd
drawu up in a long line, and smoke could he
iwrceived rising heavenwards from huts and tents
l)eueatli the trees. From an encampment on the
edge of the oasis the dogs ruslied out barking,

the inlialiitiints standing -stilH}', like statues, jiiid
Htariiig lit us.

Along a shallow, stony, river lied — rough ground
for tlie horses — we pursued our way towards our
destination in the hills, whilst the sun burnt so
fiercely that our senses were dulled.

After a couple more liours, we again met laden

38 CAVE DWELLERS

camels, iind with them some travellers ou foot, one
without a burnous or head-covering, and clothed
only in a shirt confined at the waist by a strap.
He wore his hair in a tuft on the nape of his neck,
and carried in his hand a banner on a pole. Amar
told me he was a Marabout from one of the villages
near Gabes.

Of Marabouts there is no lack. This one was
very poor, and was returning from the mountains,
where he had been begging for money which he
imagined was due to him. The banner he carried
that everyone might see that a holy man was

coming.

I gave him a few coppers, and the young fellow
kissed my hand, and wished me good luck on my
journey. It is not everyone wlio is wished good
luck on their travels by a Marabout. I bought
my blessing cheap.

We now rode some distance amongst small
hills, which are scattered in the foreground of the
mountains like islands on a coast-line. On some
eminences were hea2)s of stones.

'* Those were there befoi'C our time," said Amar.

In places where the ground was more or less
level it was sli<rhtlv scratched round about the
dry bushes. This is the arable land, that is to
say, it would be cultivated if rain fell.

We halted beneath some bushes to eat our l)reak-

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 39

fast. The bread, butter, and cheese we could all
enjoy, but I alone the wine and meat. A pome-
granate supplied our dessert.

Whilst we sat there, five women in blue dresses
came by, preceded by an old man driving half a
score of camels. The women wore bracelets and
anklets. They glanced furtively at us and trudged
past. A negress only, who lagged l)ehind, tried
to attract our attention. She was evidently not
accustomed to be taken notice of.

Travelling was now easy, the track leading up-
wards over smooth calcareous ground. In little
w^atercourses, now dry, were planted clumps of
palm and olive trees, the soil being banked about
them to form dams. On an adjoining slope were
numbers of small caves, inhabited only in harvest
time, when w^atcli is kept over the crops.

We ascended hi<rher and hi^^her amon<:!:st the
mountains, until suddenly, as I turned in my
saddle, I saw the Mediterranean like a blue streak
in the distance. We were at that moment at the
highest point we were to reach that day. At a
distance here and there dogs appeared, barking at
us, and occasionally in their vicinity white figures
and rising smoke. Hamed said that these people
were cave dwellers, but were only a small tribe.
A little later we were to arrive at quite a subter-
ranean town.

40 CAVE DWELLERS

1 halted aljruptly ou seeing below me a valley
with, comparatively speakiug, many trees. On the
farther side rose a long range of high mountains.
The valley itself was exactly like a large, old sand
or clay ditch, with sloping sides, pierced by a great
number of neglected and long-disused shafts, but
planted with trees — palms, olives, and figs.

" Is that Hadeij ? " I asked. Hamed nodded,
and I pulled up to take a photograph.

It was then exactly two o'clock, and we continued
on our way, walking for a time beside our horses.
Just as we were about to remount, a white sheep-
dog bounded out of a hole we had not noticed ;
it bayed at us in a most dismal fashion, and from
the nearest points of vantage its companions joined
in chorus.

I rode up to look at the dogs, and caught sight
of a deep pit with perpendicular sides that had
been dug in the ground from the top of the ascent.
Down at the bottom a camel stood resting. Round
a hearth were household chattels and laro-e bins
made of rushes, containing barley, and amoncrst
these a few fowls. Some women and children
looked up on hearing the tramp of my horse, stared
at me for a moment, and then fled into recesses
in the walls.

Hamed now suggested that 1 should not remain
standing there, and 1 followed his good advice.

FROM GABfis TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 41

A path had beeu dug into the hillside, and
terminated in a large door or gate. This evidently
led to a long underground passage, and ended in
the square yard, open to the air, which I had just
seen, and whence are entered the excavated rooms
or caves, used as dwelling-places, stores, and stables.

On the horizon the straight stems of palms stood
out sharply against the mountiiins. In the fore-
ground were olive trees, and, mingled with them,
a few palms ; beneath one of these was gathered
a group of men, amongst whom, Hamed said, was
the great Khalifa. I therefore drew rein. An old
greybeard rose and strode for wan], otfering his
hand and bidding me welcome, the other men
following his example. They wore fine sjDccimens
of humanity, with regular features, black eyes, and
stnught noses — one saw at once that they were
not of the ordinary Arab type.

From an open space, or square, several passages
led into the hills, affording admission to the cave
dwellers' abodes, which are all of similar construc-
tion to that already mentioned. 1 was allotted
quarters in one of the caves, and stepped from
the outer air into the hill throuiijh a wooden ffatc
on heavy hinges, and proceeded through a long
passage, cut in the rocks, a little over a man's
height. On either side were excavated large stidls
for horses, the covered way ending in an open

42 CAVE DWELLERS

square court with perpendicular walls some thirty
feet high and about the same in width. From
this court one steps into symmetrical caves with
vaulted roofs.

In the underground guest-chamber I stretched
myself comfortably on a couch covered with hand-
some carpets from Kairwan. A table and some
chairs completed the furniture of this room, spcci«nlly
set apart for European guests. The Khalifa is rich,
very rich, so that he can permit himself this luxury,
though it is but seldom that he has a European
visitor. He told me with pride that General
Boulanger had in his time been his guest.

After my long ride I recjuired rest; the doors
in the yard were therefore closed, so that it was
(juite dark in my room. The Hies did not worry
me, and I had quite a refreshing sleep until I
was awakened by the neighing of the liorses in
the passages. A little later the light streamed
in through my door ; a figure stepped in, and for
a moment it was again dark whilst the newcomer
passed through the doorway.

It was the Khalifa ; behind him came Hamed
and several other persons, sons or people of the
house.

I expressed my pleasure at being the guest of so
hospitable a man, and the Khalifa responded with
compliments. Coflee was served, and the party

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 43

grouped themselves aliout me on the floor, witli
the exception of the Khalifii who seated himself
by me on the divan, an<l conversation flowed easily
with the help of Hamed.

Tlie contents of my saddle-bags, the pliotographic
apparatus, and especially an entomological syringe,
underwent careful in-
vestigation.

But I could not
afford to sit and idle
the time away, so
went out to look about
nie. Through Hamed
I expressed my desire
to examine the in-
terior of II dwelling,
and WU3 promised that
I should see every-
thing ; but several
times we passed the
s(iuare openings on the tops of the hills, as also
the entrances to linu.ses, witliont anyone nuiking
a Kign to us to enter.

At last we arrived at a house into wliicli [ was
invited. On the whole it much reseml)led that
from which we came, and was inhabited by a
Jew and a poor Berber family.

The yard was dirty ; cooking utensils lay

44 CAVE DWELLERS

scattered about, iuteriiiiiigled with a few rush
corn-bins and some goats and poultry.

A woman, old, wrinkled, and tattooed, and
both hideous and dirty, was brought forward for
me to see. It was, of course, the Jew s wife. His
fellow-lodgers, the Berbers, I did not see ; but as
I stepped into tlie dwelling, a vision of blue skirts
and bare legs vanished into the side caves.

Already I began to feel impatient and to fear
that I was being made a fool of and should never
see, as I longed to do, where and how the Berbers
lived. Fortunjitely I had hiter a splendid oppor-
tunity of studying the whole subject.

Accompanied by two sons of the Khalifa and
some other persons I walked round the valley and
up the slopes, whence I could peer down into the
caves at the bottom of the valley, and could see
women goin^ through the entrances to their dwell-
ings, to the palm and olive trees, followed by dogs
and inquisitive children.

My camera I had with me, and used it fre-
(juently.

As the sunset hour approached, the heat relaxed,
and one breathed with ease.

In a great open s(juare, beautified with palms, at
least fifty young men and boys were running from
side to side. They had Ciist aside the burnous, and
wore only red caps and shirts, which fluttered as

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 45

tliey rail. With long sticks, bent at one end, they
struck at a soft ball which flew to ami fro, some-
times in the air, sometimes on the ground.

It was beautiful to watch these bold muscuhir
figures, so straight .and supple, with their light
brown skins, regular features and bright eyes,

reminding me that thus must the Greek and
Roman boys have played on the plains bencoth
their blue mountains.

The game was kept up without a pau.se, until
the sun sank suddenly behind the mountains, and
it was no longer possible to sec, for twilight is
unknown in these regions.

46 CAVE DWELLERS

I returned to my cave, lit my candle, smoked
cigarettes and waited until my dinner should be
served.

Five figures appeared, each carrying a dlsli
which was phiccd on a table before me, and a
pitcher of water was deposited Iieside me. The

meal consisted of soup with lumps of meat highly
peppered, a stew of chicken, and an enormous dish
of kus-kus, made of barley meal with goat's flesh,
and, finally, honey and bread ; this last was of
bailey meal, dry but well fiiivoured.

A knife I had with me ; but a spoon, that
treasure to a European in these regions, was pro-

FROM GABfeS TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 47

vided. Ilamed stood by my side, filled my glass
whenever it was empty, and served the dinner.
On one side sat Mansur, the Khalifa's third son, as
ordained by their customs and usages. I requested
him to join me at dinner. With a graceful motion
of his hand to his breast, he bowed his head and
begged me to excuse him.

Hamed informed me that honoured guests
always dine alone.

On the floor, somewhat aside, sat a row of white
figures all staring at me whilst I ate.

A great silence reigned.

This procedure rather disturbed me at first, but
one soon gets accustomed to this sort of thing.

Hamed constantly pressed me to eat. I thought
it could be of no consequence to him ; but dis-
covered later that he was prompted by delicacy of
feeling. For when I held concluded my meal, it
was his turn, with Mansur and others, to eat the
remains. All the scraps of meat, bones, etc. left
were then put back into the dishes, and these were
carried into the adjoining room where the rest of
the men gathered round them ; but before doing
so, they poured water in a basin and moistened
their lips and fingers.

I peeped in on them, and was greeted by the
sound of noisy mastication.

Their shoes had been left beyond the edge of

48 CAVE DWELLERS

the rusli mat on which they were seated. Fingers
were used in place of spoons or forks.

At last they w^ere satisfied. The remnants were
again collected in a dish, and it was then probably
the turn of the boys and negroes, and, after them,
of the dogs ; but the end I did not see.

After enjoying coffee I went out into the court
wiiere the stars twinkled overhead. In the distance
I heard a strange humming noise, and the sound
as of far-off explosions. After a little while the
Khalifa arrived to invite me to be present at the
first day*s fete held to celebrate his son Mohammed's
wedding to a second wife, and I then understood
that the sounds I had heard had been the hum of
many voices and of gunshots.

The moon rose in the vault of heaven, and
disclosed in front of me, and on either side of the
slopes, forms wrapped each in his burnous, squatting
side by side. From above, the moonlight shone on
the white crowed, giving them the appearance of
spectres. The group opposite looked as though
moulded half in black, and half in dazzling white.

Up above and to the left were depicted against
the light a crowd of black, pointed figures. These
were men of the Matmata mountains ; they sat
silent, watching apparently the dark corner in front
of me, where no light penetrated, as the moon rose
hicrh on her course.

FROM GAB6s to the MATMATA MOUNTAINS 51

The Khalifa ordered chairs to be brought. On
these we seated ourselves, Hamed standing behind
us, and bending forward to each of us in turn, like
a mechanical contrivance throuiyh which we carried
on our conversation.

Groups of men sat behind and beside us ; they
continued arriving until the square was full to
where the Matmata men sat on the banks.

Right in front, on the level ground, I dis-
tinguished a dark compact mass. These were the
women, closely enveloped in their sombre garments ;
they were seated by the entrance to the caves.

A lantern was now lit and placed on the
ground near my feet. At first its light confused
me, but W'ithout it I could not have seen what took
phice.

One of the Khalifa s horsemen named Belkassim,
a relative and an elderly man, was deputed to
maintain order, and at once cleared a little space
l)etween us and the women. He then led forward
two negroes, who performed a dance to the sound
of a drum and a clarionet. Thev marched towards
us side by side, then retired backwards, then again
forward and back. This was rej^eated some half-
dozen times, with a swinging movement from the
hips. Every time they approached us, they waved
the drum and the clarionet over our heads, then
turned towards the women before stepjjing liackwards

FROM G.\SES T: -'i x.-Ti.-.Tr. A«.'.>.r..

• V-i

T, T ' ■

these W-: -. .:r. z:-_'-

U5, aiiJ '"rl --.; - ■-'^-'

«i iiK-cLai.:;-.. i":.'-'- ■

« •

-.;.:•

* _' -

V -

on our n.'L "'■•:>-*_ L

rontinue'i ■:;:::■-- "_i:- ".-■- :•■...:

where th»r M::r:.: —-i -i: i :_-.

Riirhr in :::i:. i :_- --~r. .

tmjruidieJ a ■:.-.:i : :.:■. : —■.?--.

!■ •

■ V • «.

. _ -! V. ' * r '. t . . I

women, rlostrlv ri-i'. :^: n :!::: ^.:_" re- ^:i::vau:> :
thev were .seatei'i t :'„■: -:i:r.i.T :• ::.-.■ -v-v.^s.

A lantern w:-.- i-:^ 1:: -.!.■: :■".:•.. -t.-l ..n ilio
LTouml ni'Jir mv f-re:. A: r:*- :> I:_;.: i or.t'iiM'tl
me. but without i: lo ^l: l.-: :.:.vv >ot:*ii wluu lot^k

ihioof the Khiilifa- ii'^rs'.n*t.ii namoil liolk.issim.

a relative ami au eklerly man. was ilri»iu»'«l i'»

mMintaiu order, ami at ruin.- L-lfarotl a liiilr i-\Kur

'•etwetn us and the womeu. He thon ioil t'nrwMnl

two nvLToes. who perforiiKMl a dam-o to tin* sunn»l

of :uinmiand a clarionet. Thev iiian-lu'il t^wMnl-

us si'ie bv .side, then retired backwards, tlu-n ml-jh"

man! and back. This was ropcatt'd snim- li«'dt

•lozen time^. with a swiiKdn*' niovtMiuMit IVnin >•'*'
,. ^ ^ I

^^' hvery time they approachod us, tlirv ^v:l^*•

*!ie 'Irum and the dariouct ovor our li^'Ji'''^' ^ '"

tanihl towanlMhe women before .stt'|)|»in.L^ barU^^'"''

52 CAVE DWELLERS

again. The Khalifa raised his hand. The negroes
bent their heads backwards that he might place
a coin on the forehead of each. I followed his
example ; with the result that they continued their
parade and deafening noise of slow, harsh, wheezy,
jerky music.

Suddenly it increased in pace, and both negroes
whirled violently round. The time then became
slower, the parade recommenced, and my sense of
hearing was again endangered each time the loud
drum was swunjoj over mv head.

The din ceased abruptly, and from the rows of
women came a stranije cluckinjLi: sound as of the
hurried calling of fowls, ** Lu, lu, lu, lu, lu, lu, lu.''
This was a sign of approval. At the same moment
a gun was fired. The flash lit up the rows of
women. The shots were repeated again and again.
It was the bridegroom^s nearest friends firing a
salute in his honour. The women responded with
the " Yu, yu" cry, the negro musicians joined, and
more shots followed.

Then it struck me that I also would join in the
festive demonstration, so I told Hamed to bring
me my revolver, and I fired the six chambers into
the air, one after the other.

The women at once broke into the cry of joy.
Drums and clarionets joined in.

'* I am much gratified," I said to the Khalifa,

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 53

'* that you have introduced me to the circle of your
people. Here is my hand in token of my gratitude.
May Allah protect you and yours."

" Thanks for your good wishes," he replied.
'' You come from a strange and distnnt land. You
are my friend and my brother, one for whom I am
responsible so long as you remain in the Matmata
mountains. You are free to travel anywhere you
l>lease; no one will injure you."

[ said, " When I came I knew you would treat
me as you would a brother ; I was told so by the
Khalifa of Gabes ; but I was not aware that you
had authority over all the tribes of the Matmata.
But now I know it. I arrived with this weapon
by my side, as you may have seen it hung by my
saddle when you received me. Now I realise that
it is superfluous, and that I shall have no need of
it so long as I am amongst your people. As a
sign, therefore, of my sincerity, and as a token of
my respect for and gratitude to yourself, my
l>rother, I present you with my weapon. But
before I place it in your hands, permit mo to
salute with it, after the manner of your country-
men, as an expression of the pleasure I derive at
l)eing in your company during the celebration of
these festivities."

Retiring outside the circle of spectators, I again
fired the six chambers of my revolver.

54 CAVE DWELLERS

Then arose from the women a high-pitched and
long-drawn " Yu, yu, yu," followed by some musket
shots.

Bowing to the Khalifa I presented him with
the revolver. He gave me his hand, bringing it
afterwards to his lips. This was the seal of our
friendship.

'* Would you like the women to sing for you,
or would you prefer men - singers ? " asked the
Khalifa.

" As you will, brother ; I do not wish to inter-
rupt your fete ; let it go on as arranged before my
arrival."

However, the old man insisted on my deciding
which I preferred, so I could not deny that I was
inclined to hear the women sini^.

They sat before me ; I could not distinguish
their features. Amongst them, I was told, sat the
first wife of the bridegroom Mohammed — sharins:
in the universal rejoicings.

According to report, she is comparatively young
and still pretty, and who knows but that her heart
aches at the thought that soon she must share her
husband with a younger rival — or perhaps it may
seem to her quite natural, and she congratulates
herself on the prospect of having someone to help
in her work, which is not of the lightest.

The Khalifa laid his hand on my shoulder to

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 55

warn me that the performance was about to
begin.

In somewhat drawling measure, a sweet female
voice improvised a solo, the chorus being taken up
l)y the surrounding women, interrupted now and
again by the shrill "Yu, yu."

Hamed told me it was of myself they sang.

^* This morning he came with weapons and fol-
lowers — perhaps straight from Paris. The pistol
hung on his saddle ; his horse was red. The
proudest charger you could see. He sat straight
as a palm on his horse, right over the steep
hillside. Yu, yu, yu.

" Now he sits with us as a brother. Yes, like
the Bey himself, by the side of Sid Fatushe, our
old Khalifa. He has given him his pistol, a costly
gift, of greater value than even the best camel.
Yu, yu, yu.

" If he will be our friend and remain with us, we

will find him a wife. Fatima awaits him — of the

beautiful eyes, her nails stained with henna ; on

her hands are golden bracelets, and anklets on her

feet.

'' Yu, yu, yu."

There was a great deal more sung about me
which I am too modest to repeat.

The women sang for about an hour, improvising
my praises, giving honour to thq Khalifa in flatter-

56 CAVE DWELLERS

ing phrases, and not omitting my friend and guide,
Hamcd and his horse.

At last the song ceased, and I thanked the
Khalifa and begged him to believe in my sincere
appreciation.

Next stepped forward a mulatto. Amongst the
Arabs these play the part of the jesters of the
Middle Ages. Accompanied by the drum an<l the
shrill notes of the clarionet, he delivered a lampoon
in verse, directed against tlie women, since they
had not sung in praise of liim wliom they knew,
but, forsooth, had extolled the stranger whom they
saw for tlie first time.

He abused them in language far from decorous,
and reaped applause in half-stifled laugliter from
the men, who spent the whole evening on the self-
same spot where they had originally settled ; only
now and then did one of them rise to wrap liis
burnous better about him ; his figure standing out
sharply against the vault of heaven above the edge
of the bank.

There were many childnin and half-grown lads
present. At the commencement they were rather
noisy, but were scolded by Belkassim, or the Khalifa,
and were kicked aside. Later, several fell asleep
enveloped in their burnouses and leaning against
the elder men.

When the negro singer had finished his song

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS 57

it was again the women's turn, and they paid him
off for having ventured to imagine that they might
liave sung in praise of him, a wretched creature,
who did not even possess a decent burnous.

The drum and clarionet again did their duty ;
after which the negro took up his defence. They
were not to suppose that he was poverty-stricken ;
and he was the boldest rider amongst the Matrnata
(the Khalifa told me the man had never mounted
a horse). When he a[)peared in Howing burnous,
the hood thrown l)ack as he sang the war song, he
rivalled the Khalifa himself when marching to battle.

lie and the women continued squabbling in this
fashion for some time. No doubt the women carried
the day, for the negro was finally shoved back
upon the spectators, and hustled by them from one
group to another, until at hist he vanished in the
darkness.

Two men then performed a stick dance to the
tripping time of drum and clarionet, and towards
the end the women joined in a song with a chorus.
They prayed Allah for rain and a good harvest.
Then sang of Mena, the married woman who took
to herself a lover and paid for her indiscretion with
her life ; of the hunter who bewitched a lion with
his flute, thus saving the life of a little girl ; of
love ; of charming cavaliers ; of the Khalifa ; and,
finally, of myself ; but, strangely enough, not of the

58 CAVE DWELLERS

bridegroom, so far as I could gather, and very
slightly of the bride.

The wedding feast was to last eight days. Ou
the last the bride would be brouo^ht home. Duriiii:^
these eight days Mohammed, the bridegroom, was
not to show himself in either his own or his father s
house. He must remain concealed amongst his
friends, and not attend openly at the rejoicings,
though he was probably present incognito.

At last the Khalifa rose and bade me good-
night. The men dispersed and went their ways
homewards, the women following.

I expressed a wish to leave next morning,
and, in accordance with my plans, to take a two
days' journey into the mountains to visit a number
of Berber villages, returning afterwards to be again
the Khalifa s guest before finding my way back to
Gabds.

The same evening the Khalifa sent an express
courier to the sheikhs of the villages with instruc-
tions that I should be well received.

This arranged, I retired to rest. As T passed
up the dark underground passage, I patted my horse
and wished my friends good-night.

The door closed behind me, and soon I was
sleeping as quietly and peacefully in the caves of
the Matmata mountains as I should in my own bed
at home.

CIIAPTEU V

Return to Gab^

IIamed woke mo at sunrise. I was soon dressed,
my saddle-bags ])ftcked and coffee heated.

The Iiorscs had
))ecii led out from
their underground
stiiMe. Outside the
dwelling I met the
Klialifa, coming evi-
dently fresh from his
devotions as he still
grasped liis rosary.
Smiling, he held out
his hand to take
leave bidding me
"Farewell till to-
morrow evening."

As we rode over noi.1. rri

the hill, a rider galloped up and took the lead ;
it was Belkassim, the Khalifa's relative, who was
to show me the way. I followed him, and Hamed
beeame the anih^e garde.

6o CAVE DWELLERS

There are no springs or wells in these regions ;
water, therefore, is collected in deep tanks. By one
of these was a woman filling her pitcher.

The rays of the rising sun gleamed on IJelkas-
sim s white burnous and the silver-inlaid gun which
lay across his saddle-bow, on the tips of the palm
trees, on the mountain peaks, and on the woman
at the cistern. Snatching a rapid glance I saw she
was pretty, but she at once turned her back ; so I
could only admire her slender feet and silver anklets
as she placed the pitcher on the side of the tank
and drew her blue-striped kerchief over her head.

** That is Mansur's wife ; his only wife," said
Belkassim.

Happy son of the Khalifa of Matmata !

When we had crossed to the other side of the
vale I turned in my* saddle ; she still stood there,
and in the distance below I saw her face indistinctly,
like a pale spot amidst its dark blue wrappings.
She remained long standing thus and looking after
us ; then disappeared, carrying the dull grey pitcher
on her back, and up the slope other blue figures
came tripping along to the same spot.

The valley is very uneven, rising and falling, as
it is furrowed and cut up by watercourses. The
palm and olive trees scattered along these crevasses
are protected by stone enclosures and ditches.

Just as we passed the last dip in the valley

RETURN TO GAB^S 6i

before climbing the hill, there rushed out three dogs
which had evidently been watching us.

I looked about me, for it dawned on my mind
that there must be a habitation in the vicinity. I
was right ; for, by standing in my stirrups and
stretching my neck, I got a glimpse of the square
upper rim of a cave yard.

The dogs rushed on Hamed's horse which was
last, and had possibly approached too close to the
entrance of the dwelling. The attack w^as so violent '
that we were obliged to turn and assist him. The
furious brutes held fast on to the tail of his horse,
fearing to come within reach of Hamed's whip ; but
one of them succeeded in biting the horse's near hind-
leg, drawing blood and laming it — a pleasant be-
ginning to our mountain trip !

We dismounted and threw stones at these furious
white sheep-dogs, and at last they retired, showing
their teeth and ready to resume the attack the
moment we remounted. Fortunately a man and a
boy appeared and called the dogs off. Believing
the man to be their owner, I ordered Hamed to
rate him soundly and threaten that I would report
what had occurred to the Khalifa. The man took
the rebuke quietly, but told us humbly that he was
a poor devil who possessed nothing — not even a
dog. The proprietor of the dwelling was absent.

" Then greet him from us . and say that he

63 CAVE DWELLERS

should have his dogs under better control, or he
will have the Klmlifa after bini."

The wrongly accused man kissed a fold of my
burnous, and we again mounted our horses and
climbed the mountain in a zigzag course, by diffi-
cult paths over loose stones.

Belkassira rode only a few paces in front of me,
yet I saw his horse above the level of my head.

whilst Hanicd, who was a couple of paces behind
dniggiug along his lame horse, appeareil to l)e far
beneath me.

From the summit I looked Irnck along the valley
and to a high undulating stretch, where the trees
showed like spots on a panther's skin.

Over the valley to the north rose the mountains,
and beyond them stretched ;in indistinct light blue
plain, melting far away into a darker blue — this was
the sea.

Step by step, slowly but surely, our horses paced

RETURN TO GABES 63

down the long valley into which we descended.
Now and again we put up a covey of partridges that
flew up the mountain, and the larks started in
couples from amongst the palms and stones. We
presently hurried on at the quick pace to which
the Berber horses are accustomed ; Hamed singing,
as we went along, a song that echoed above us and
on every side.

Perched on some stones at the bottom of the dry
bed of a torrent were three pretty little girls, who
leaned against the bank and peeped shyly at us
over it. Their goats jumped from stone to stone
seeking food amongst the scanty forage afforded by
the dry burnt pasture.

The tallest of the little girls ran suddenly away
from the others when I rode towards them. She
scrambled up the rocky bank like a squirrel, and
paused on the top of a large boulder ; the flock of
black goats following her. She was evidently old
enough to know that speech with a strange man is
forbidden.

Belkassim tried to coax her down again ; he
assured her that the kind stranger would give her
money if she would come to him. But no, she
would not respond, remaining where she was and
calling to the two other little ones. These pressed
nervously against each other, in their thin blue
garments, and, when I offered them some coppers.

64 CAVE DWELLERS

shut their eyes as they extended thi^ir hands to me
to reiit'ivo the nionev, and then took Hif»:ht.

We were neiir some nativii dwellings. I)o<][s
l)arked, under an olive tree stood a donkey muneh-
ini>; straw, and we i)erceived some of the familiar
hlue figures, which looked nearly ])lack against their
light brown surroundings. In the distance their
ornaments glittered in the light of the setting sun.
lielkassini shouted to them to eome forw*ard as it
was a friend and brother of the Klialifa who wished
to see them. Alost of them remained standim*-
where tlu^v were and stared at us. The men were
apparently all away, either amongst the mountains,
busy with I he date harvest, or building tanks in the
valleys, so from them there was naught to fear.

We dismounted and had a chat with the wonuMi.
I unpacked my camera and tried to take their
portraits, l)ut these girls and women are so restless
that it is ditKcult to make them keep still. There
was one exception, however, a pretty fresh young
ffirl who came out of one of the dwellinixs — a cave
like those near Hadeij — and stared and st.'ired at the
camera.

An old woman next came tripping up to olfcr
herself, evidently of a mind that coppers are worth
having. I should have preferred her gocd-lookin**-
daughters, who were engaged in driving a restive
camel into the cave passage. But this 1 saw plainlv

RETURN TO GABES

65

was not to he, for she ordered the girls in and placed
hci'self before me, and I had to be satisfied.

This was the village of Judlig. The population
cannot be large, but by me it will always be remeni-
l>ered as the village of many women.

Continuing along the base of tlie valley for about
an hour, we then entered anotlicr valley through the
great deep bed of a
broad liver now dry ;
tlie banks were quite
perpendicular. This
river is the Sid Bar-
rak. The horses had
difficulty in keeping
tlieir f(X)ting on the
stony bottom.

On a slight rise
our guide hade us
halt, so we drew rein
while he pointed out Sid Iwn Aissa, hut 1 could
see nothing.

When wc had ridden .some way down the valley,
we saw some half-score white burnouses coming
towards us. These proved to l)e the Sheikh and his
people, who came to bid me welcome; his brown-
clad followers walked beside their horses. In time,
the old greybeards and dark-eyed merry lads joined
our party.
5

66 CAVE DWELLERS

Dogs barked, sombre clad females witli peaked
wliitc headgear peered over tlie crest of tlie mound,
and terrified little children fled to their mothers and
hid themselves in the folds of their garments.

Palm trunks raised their lofty crowns towanls

the blue heavens, where, on the mountains and in
the valley, they grew mingled with olive and fig
trees, and the hot air of midday quivered about us
as we made our entry.

The village contains some fifty underground
dwellings like those of Hadeij, and about five

RETURN TO GABES 67

hundred inhabitants. The approach to the Sheikh's
dwelling was not covered in. From the highest
point of the hill a slope led through a gate to the
great square court. In addition to this entrance
from the slope, one could enter from the hillside
through a deep excavated passage that ran parallel
with the slope, but naturally at a lower level.

Close to the point where the descent began was
erected a thatched roof of dry twigs and palm
branches, supported on four palm tree trunks. On
this roof lay red and yellow bunches of freshly
gathered dates, and beneath its shade sat a few men.
My horse was tied up close by.

Hamed had told the Sheikh that I wished to see
the interior of a dwelling, so they at once led me
into the courtyard and thence into the long under-
ground chamber.

In the courtyard a camel stood chewing the cud.
It was pushed aside, fowls fluttered out of our way,
and a kid and several sheep sprang on to some heaps
of garnered dates, or hid behind the great egg-shaped
reservoirs, woven of rushes, used for storing corn.

In the caves I found it dark, chiefly because my
eyes had been dazzled by the daylight outside.
Within were women, some grinding corn, others
weaving. None were very young, but all were over-
laden with ornaments. They were quite friendly ;
one offered me dates, another water, only one of

68 CAVE DWELLERS

them, ])robably a young wife or daughter, hid in
a corner and turned her back on me. The children
flocked about me without fear, one of the boys even
pulling roguishly at my burnous.

During my visit, Hamed and the other men had
remained outside. Hamed was very proud of having
obtained permission for me to see the cave. Usually,
he said, no strangers are admitted into a house
where tliere are women. But 1 fancy my good
reception was due as much to the Khalifa's influence
as to Hamcd's.

On our way to tlie cave we had passed the
vaulted guest-room, tastefully excavated out of the
soft calcareous soil. Here 1 stretched myself on
costly carpets whilst I ate my meal ; my escort
afterwards consuming the remainder.

As I wished to learn all particulars concerning
the costume of both men and women, they brought
me clothes and ornaments in quantities. To the
great amusement of those present, Belkassim was
dressed up in woman's attire, the property of the
Sheikh's first wife. Afterwards, I photographed him
in the same dress, together with the Sheikh and his
boys in a group outside the caves.

After a stay of a couple of hours we rode on,
being set on our way by the Sheikh and his people.

We now followed the bed of the river Barrak,
amongst rocks and ridges and over rolling stones

RETURN TO GABES 69

and rough pebbles. We saw a party of women
leave the valley for a deserted village, of which the
ruins showed waste and grim on the mountain-top.
They were taking food up to the shepherds in
charge of the sheep and goats there, and w^ould
take advantage of the cooler air of the heights to
have a midday nap in the shade of the ruins.
In olden days the Beni Aissa dwelt on these
heights, but it was very trying, especially for the
women who had every day to descend to the
plain to fetch water ; so, when more peaceful times
came, they moved down to the caves at the base
of the valley.

This valley wound round the foot of the
mountain, so for a couple of hours we liad the
picturesque ruins to our right. At last we lost
sight of them, and then began a stiff ascent
through wild and desolate gorges, and, finally, we
clambered up a very steep mountain side where
the stones rolled from under our horses' feet.
Hamed thought it too bad, so dismounted, letting
his horse follow hiip ; while we, by endless zig-
zags, wound our way to the summit. Here we
waited a few moments to recover breath and
give time to the loiterer, whilst enjoying the
lovely view over the Matmata mountain peaks
and vales.

Once more we descended into a valley, then

70 CAVE DWELLERS

toiled up another mountain side, afterwards riding
along the ridge at the summit to reach "Tujud,"
one of the eyries on the top of the Matmata
heights.

On the horizon we (jould distinguish the low
land to the south of Gab(5s, and, beyond it, the
sea. Farther east lay the mountain chain of
Jebel Teboga, a long blue line, and between it
and us stretched a level plain, partly concealed
by the adjacent hilly ground, of which the ridges
surmounted each other in undulating lines. Below
us, to the north, was a deep valley.

Scanning the stony surface of the bridle-path,
I discovered accidentally some outlines scratched
on the stones. They were mostly of footprints,
and later I was informed that these are said to
be carved by pious friends, in memory of the
dead, on the spot where they had last met the
deceased.

Tujud lay before us. In the distance it re-
sembles somewhat an old German castle of the
Middle Ages, with the usual mass of houses
attached thereto. The summit of the pile of
dwellings was crowned by a couple of camels,
showing like black silhouettes against the sky.
On the flat grey plain, dark specks were moving :
these were women.

The Sheikh came to meet and conduct me

RETURN TO GABES 71

into the town, through steep narrow alleys. The
houses were all built of uncut stone, and not
whitewashed. The style of building was most
irregular. As the rock was very precipitous, the
little dwellings were extraordinarily varied in
height and appearance. Their courtyards were
crowded with bleating sheep and goats, a few
camels, various household chattels, braziers, and
all manner of dirt. In the doorways, and on the
flat roofs, women and children stood watching us.

Of men there were not many at home ; at
this season they are probably mostly guarding
their flocks on the far plains to the south-west.

On a height close by, were a couple of Mara-
bout tombs with whitewashed walls ; and in the
distance to the north we could see, over the
mountain ridge, a village on a height. This was
Zaraua ; and towards the west we sighted another,
Tamezred. They both looked like fortified castles.

After a short halt we continued our way towards
Zaraua, the Sheikh giving us a guide, quite a young
fellow. He tried to slip off* when we had ridden
about half-way ; as it was near sunset he most
likely wished to return to his home before dark.
Belkassim gave him a sound thrashing and forced
him to go on, as we could not distinguish the
bridle-road from the footpath. When we reached
the foot of the hill and could see the village at

72 CAVE DWELLERS

the summit, I dismissed the lad, who quickly
vanished behind us.

No one came to meet us until, when quite
near the town, a young man at last appeared,
who welcomed me, announcing that he was a near
relative of the Sheikh w^ho, he said, was absent.

Both Ilamed and Belkassim told me they
detected an intention to slight me, therefore they
abused the unlucky fellow because I had not been
received at the proper distance from the town,
and with the honours due to me.

Twelve years ai^o these natives tried to assert
their independence of French rule, and many of
the brave fellows fell fio^htino^ here amonff the
mountains. From that time, therefore, they do
not entertain a friendly recollection of the French ;
and thoy supposed me to be a Frcnclmian. How-
ever, they did not openly venture to run counter
to the safe conduct the Khalifa had given me, so
they wQut througli tlie forms of hospitality ; but
my guides were in the right — my hosts were, to
say the least, unwilling.

I walked up a path which led towards the
cemetery. On the precipitous slope lay mound
on mound, composed of small stones. Here rested,
perhaps, the defenders of their fatherland, laid
low by the bullets of the French.

From the tanks beneath the slopes the women

RETURN TO GAB^S 73

drew water. They carried the huge pitchers on
their backs, bound to their foreheads by a towel.
Each turned away her face, or concealed it in her
towel, as they approached us. The men stood, like
rigid statues, without looking at us ; not one extended
the hand of welcome.

We dismounted on the outskirts of the village,
and the young man led me into a stinking court and
opened the door of a room that was snug enougli,
but where dirt, dust, and spiders reigned. The
atmosphere w^as extremely musty and disgusting. I
at once decided that 1 would not inliabit it, and pro-
claimed my amazement at their daring to offer me
such a room.

The reply was that it was impossible to procure
other cpuirters, and that there were none better to be
found. Knowing this to be false, I said plainly that
I would not submit to such treatment, and, in
accordance with Belkassim's advice, ordered that a
tent should be pitched outside the house on a small
terrace near the slope. The young man l)ent his
head in consent, and soon several men were busy
sweeping tlie terrace and driving tent pegs into the
hard ground.

Our horses still stood saddled, without anyone
offering to look after them, and again I had to do
battle for my rights, with the result that they were
stabled and supplied with provender.

74 CAVE DWELLERS

In the meantime I walked down the mountain
side, partly to look about me, partly to allow my
followers time to fight out matters with the natives.

The sun had just set as I seated myself on a
stone and looked up to the village above me ; in the
gathering darkness it showed as a massive black pile.
On the terraces outside I could distinguish dark
figures engaged in their evening orisons. They bowed
frequently and kissed the ground, and then lay pros-
trate for some moments, deep in prayer.

The dogs around me barked, and I could hear the
hammering in of the tent pegs, as also voices in
discussion above me. Near me was a new grave —
perhaps of that very day ; it was covered with stones,
and in the middle was stuck a bit of stick with a
green rag attached to it, to scare jackals and deter
them from digging up the body.

Presently our horses were led down the hill by
Hamed, and watered at one of the tanks. As he
passed he confided to me that Belkassim had
managed his business so well that all was now in
order. The latter had declared that I was not a
Frenchman, but a stranger from another land, a
friend of the Khalifa and of the tril)e.

This, it appeared, had changed the attitude of the
Zarauar, for, when I soon after returned to the town,
several men came forward and oficred me another
dwelling which, after inspection, I accepted. I also

RETURN TO GAB^S 75

granted the permission they asked to strike the
tent.

The dwelling in question evidently belonged to
someone practised in carpentry, for in the corners
lay bits of wood, knives, axes, etc.

The ceiling was of palm stems, and on the stone
walls hung a quantity of platters, bowls, trays, and
cooking-pots. Lighting a candle I stood it on a plank,
and threw myself on my rugs with my saddle under
my head, and fancied myself the owner.

It was long before any food arrived, but when it
did it was excellent. Whilst I ate, a knot of people
stood at the open door and watched me. I chatted
with them, and in the end we became ostensibly
good friends, especially after I had distributed some
cigarettes.

The public retired when the bowls and trays were
Cxirried out, and I applied myself to writing. That
being done I rolled myself in my burnous and went
to sleep: When I had slept but a short time I was
awakened by the sound of the yard gate rattling.
Our horses, which stood in the gateway, were evi-
dently disturbed. Then 1 heard a light footfall on
the pavement outside, and a sound as of someone
breathing near my door, and a few minutes after a
fumbling at the door handle. This I could not stand.
Springing up I quickly struck a match and opened
the door. There, with its head to my nose and

76 CAVE DWELLERS

breathing in my face, stood a camel ; and behind it
another.

Thank goodness, it was nothing worse.

Before sunrise we started, riding in the cool
morning over mountain and vale to Tamezred. By
a deep stony gorge we arrived at the foot of the
mountain, where the road was so impracticable that
we all three had to dismount and drag our horses
along ; it took us half an hour to cover a quarter of
a mile.

This was certainly tlie most unapproachable eyrie
I have seen in the south. From the mountain top the
view extended for miles over hill and dale down to
the plains to the south-west in the country of Bir
Sultan, at least forty miles distant. There the herds
were grazing, for no rain had fallen on the mountains.

Sheikh El-IIadj Abdallah received us amicably,
and invited me to the guest-chamber — a stuffy room
— where food was brought me. From thence I over-
looked a wonderfully beautiful landscape.

The inhabitants spoke the Berber tongue, but
also understood Arabic. I tried in vain to get some
Berber manuscripts to examine, but none were to be
had, the language being nowadays written in Arabic
characters.

The Sheikh's property — a square court with a low
range of buildings outside it — I examined from end
to end. Within were women spinning and cooking.

RETURN TO GAB^S 79

In one enclosure stood a fine bull, in another I dis-
covered a number of old flint-lock muskets hanging
amongst keys, yarn, powder-horns, and pomegranates,
all being spun over with spider webs. The guns
had probably not been used since the French in-
vasion.

This was the only occasion on which I saw fire-
arms in any numbers, the Arabs generally concealing
them — often under their beds so as to have them
handy.

In the guest-room a camel's -hair tent hung,
rolled up under the roof When the men wander
forth after the rainfall to hunt or to sow, the tent is
packed on a camel and taken with them.

The Sheikh informed me that the inhabitants of
Tamezred number some five hundred souls. Of
these about a hundred men can be armed ; they
mostly fight on foot, as horses are rare in these
mountains ; in Tamezred there are only seven, but
there are many hundreds of camels, about a hundred
cows, as many small donkeys, and large herds of
sheep and goats. These graze on the plains, far
away towards Bir Sultan and Bir Zuamitz, watched
by the men of the village.

When the rain falls, all the men and some of the
women go off" to the plains to plough and sow ; they
live in tents, and their sheikhs accompany them and
hunt gazelle and other game. Only a few old men

8o CAVE DWELLERS

remain in the villages to guard the women and
children.

It is not the people of Tamezred alone who thus
migrate, but also those from other mountain villages,
as Zaraua and Tujud. Hadeij, in the Matmata moun-
tains, feeds its herds in the plain south-west of the
range beside the course of the river Wad Halluf.

The village of Tamezred is crowned at the top
by a minaret, and low^er down, amongst the houses,
are several Marabout tombs with vaulted cupolas.
Only one of these, the grave of Sid Hadj Yussuf,
is limewashed and gleams white in the sunshine ;
the most part are grey, and at a distance it is
scarcely possible to distinguish the buildings from
the rocks.

On a height outside the village is raised a
great surveyors landmark, visilJe for miles, and
corresponding to others on the peaks of the ]\Iat-
mata mountains. These points of observation were
raised by a French officer for the purpose of making
a survey, which will surely be carried out ere long.

Having now attained the most westerly in-
habited point of the Matmata mountains, we took
an easterly direction, again following steep paths
and deep gorges to reach the real Matmata villages,
of which Lasheish is the largest.

In a deep valley on the way we found some
half-score men occupied in clearing an old circular

RETURN TO GAB^S 8i

well built of unhewn stone. They told me that
this supposed well was discovered quite recently.
It dates from the time of the Romans, at least so
report says, but it may be even more ancient, for
no one remembers either having seen or heard of it.

The sand, which they drew up in rough baskets,
was only slightly moist, but the fact of its being
so gave them good hope, though they had already
reached a depth of over one hundred and fifty feet.

Later in the day we passed a kubba, said to
be the burial-place of a female Marabout. This
lay, completely ruined, on a ridge between two
crests of the mountain. I wanted to peep in, but
my guides requested me not to do so.

From this point is a view of a wide valley, to
the north of which are the mountains, and behind
them lies Hadeij. Beyond the range we had a
glimpse, through a haze, of the plains of Gabes
and, far out, of the Mediterranean Sea.

In the valley below stood a whitewashed, square,

cupola-topped Marabout tomb, that of '* Sid Barrak."

I let my attendants go on a little in advance and

sneaked in, first tying up my horse outside. The

room was square, with a vaulted roof. In the centre

of the floor stood a high square frame of carved

wood, beneath whicli the saint was evidently buried.

In each corner of the frame was stuck a flag. On

the ground, along the whitewashed walls, were
6

82 CAVE DWELLERS

earthern pots, such as are used by the negroes ;
they were apparently sooty from use. Above
were sketched, in black, lines, circles, and figures
that reminded me of the Berber alphaljct.

Just as I was copying these ornaments in my
sketch-book, Hamed and Belkassim stepped in.

Hamed desired me to put on my burnous and
draw the hood over my head before I left, so that
no one should discover that I had entered ; and
Belkassim suggested that I should put some coins
into a bag that hung on the wooden frame, and
which was provided for the offerings of pilgrims,
given to defray the expenses of illuminating the
Marabout's torn!) at the festivals ; often celel)rated,
he said, by the women in or near the tomb. I
did as he desired.

Outside, in the vicinity of the tomb, were dug
low underground chambers, into which I crept.
Scattered within was pottery, some broken, a few
pieces entire. They had been used, and there were
also traces of a fireplace and smoke stains on the
roof, all suggestive of the above-mentioned festivals.
Both Belkassim and Hamed murmured a few prayers
at the grave, and when they had finished their devo-
tions we remounted. Belkassim looked carefully
round as we emerged. There was not a single
soul in sight, so he winked mischievously at me,
and we went our way.

RETURN TO GABES 83

Wc were now again on undulating ground of
hard chalk and clay, cultivated in very good ridge
and furrow, and planted with palms and olives.
In the distance we perceived several white spots in
the valley. These were the Marabouts of Lasheish,
the large troglodyte village. Meanwhile we were
compelled to make a long detour, as we were in
most impassable country, cut up as it was by the
numberless large brooks, always found on either
side of great rivers.

On a slope was a little white limekiln, whence
smoke was rising. By it were piled large faggots
of wood, seeing which I began to realise how much
brushwood must, in course of time, have been con-
sumed in these limekilns, and then understood why
the natives of the Matmata do not, as a rule, white-
wash their houses.

Lasheish is not under the authority of the
Khalifa of Hadeij, but under that of his colleague of
Gab^s. In other respects it is exactly similar to
Hadeij.

Knowing that the women here weave materials
for burnouses, clothing, towels, and, in fact, all that
appertains to the garb of the country, I decided
on making some purchases. The cave to which I
was conducted became, therefore, during the period
of my stay, a regular shop, people coming in from
all parts with goods for sale.

84 CAVE DWELLERS

Fortunately, Mansur arrived on a visit, partly
for the purpose of inviting guests to the wedding
feast; partly, so as to accompany me on my way
back to Hadeij. He materially assisted me in
making my many purchases, and in securing them
at fairly reasonable prices. But the bargaining was
neither an easy nor a pleasant task for him, as
our host always sided with the vendoi-s. They
quarrelled violently the whole time, and frequently,
before completing a reasonable bargain, I had to
throw the article repeatedly back on the sellers
hands. A gala burnous, I remember, was walked
in and out of the door seven times ; on each occasion
with a decided command that it should not reappear
before my eyes unless the price were reduced to
about an eighth of what was first asked. Each
time the owner returned, he abated a little and
the haggling was renewed. With the air of a
connoisseur I would re-examine the burnous, only
to arrive at the same conclusion — it was far too
dear. So again it was returned to the owner, who
was at once pushed aside by other vendors.

Belkassim and Hamed vied with each other in
shouts of al)use. There was a regular storm, and
what a blessed calm when the bargaining was ended.

The simplest sale cannot take place without
these folk abusing one another as if their lives
depended on it.

RETURN TO GABl&S 85

Not having allowed myself to be cheated, I had
rather risen than fallen in the natives* estimation.
The men, who a moment before had seemed to feel
bitter enmity towards me and my guides, and who
had often been harshly turned out of the room,
now sat comfortably in peace and quiet beside me,
watching me eat.

After dinner I took a turn through the village,
but soon perceived that I was being led about
much as foreign officers are at great military man-
(Buvres in Europe, when they are shown everything
except what they are most desirous of seeing. I
was, therefore, soon ready to depart ; all the more
so, as I observed that the caves were all on the
same lines of construction as those I had already
examined at Hadeij.

Just as we w^ere about to mount our horses, a
man approached us. Cringing humbly and miserably,
he dragged himself to my horse and kissed my
hand. I was told he was the owner of the dog
which had bitten Hamed's horse yesterday. He
came to entreat me not to inform the Khalifa of
the occurrence, as he feared he might be cast into

prison. Having told him that I was sure the Khalifa
would be lenient, I spurred my horse and rode off;
but my reply did not at all satisfy the penitent, who
rushed to my side and clung to my clothing. I
was near being angry, w^hen my host came forward

86 CAVE DWELLERS

aiul explained that should the Klialifa hear that I
liad l)een molested on the way, the man would
not escape punishment. Therefore he and the
people of Lasheish implored that I would entirely
refrain from reporting to the Khalifa the mishap
that had befallen us.

I glanced down at the culprit, and nearly burst
out laughing ; he looked so ridiculous. Never do
I renuanber having seen a more hy])ocritical and
( lebased countenance.

I preserved my gravity, however, promised to
keep silence, and put out my hand to t^ike leave.
The culprit litcTally snatched it to his mouth, and
I heard him callino- down the blessings of Allah
upon me.

In an open square, planted with palms, the
date harvest was in progr(\ss. The golden bunches
which hunii: on the o^reen crowns fell to the blows
of a curved knife. Tjightly clad men, boys, and
even a young girl, worked in the tree-tops ; climb-
ing (|uickly and adroitly up and down the rough
surface of the straight stems. Below, men and
women collected the bunches in great clusters, which
they placed in rush panniers, and removed on the
backs of small donkeys.

it was ditlicult to tear myself away from this idyll,
but we had to press forward, so I hurried up my
little es(!ort, and we marched on over the mountains.

RETURN TO GABES 87

Mansur had much difficulty in keeping up with
me, being very heavy, and accustomed to ride a
mule rather than a horse. There was always some-
thing wrong with his saddle, and he was perpetually
dismounting to alter first one thing, then another,
thus being left farther and farther behind. We
were obliged at last to halt, to allow him to rejoin
us, though time was passing, and sunset was
near.

A little distance from Hadeij we found, at the
bottom of the valley, a little donkey standing quite
alone, feeding on some straw. Belkassim said that
if left there at night the jackals would soon make
away with it.

It was almost dark when we crossed the river
and rode up to the village.

Again I saw the boys romping in the square
amongst the palms. Their glad voices reached my
ear, and when they caught sight of me they ran
up to us followed by their barking dogs.

The men, grouped beneath the trees, rose and
came forward to press my hand. The Khalifa also
rose to receive me. I thanked him for the delight-
ful trip he had arranged for me.

" I am glad that you are satisfied ; glad to
see you here again ; and that you will stay with
me, your brother, even for forty years.''

Of course these speeches must not be taken

88 CAVE DWELLERS

literally, they only express the kindly feeling of
the speaker towards oneself.

After I had dined in my cave I sallied out
to the Khalifa's dwelling to be present, in accord-
ance with his invitiition, at the festivities held in
honour of the third day.

As I did not like the old man to be inconveni-
enced by having to sit on a chair because I did so,
I suggested that we should sit together amongst
the other men. To this he agreed.

Gradually there arrived numbers of men from
all the surrounding country ; these sat tightly
packed on the banks, as on the previous occasion.

Again the negroes danced, the drums boomed,
and the clarionets screamed ; whilst the Khalifa, his
sons, and myself sat together in a friendly group
looking on.

Now and then the women sang, but, as far as
I could understand, neither bride nor bridegroom
were mentioned in their songs, certainly not the
latter.

It was hard to keep awake. Belkassim's little
son nestled up to me, and, as it grew chilly, I
wrapped my burnous about him, and he w\as soon
asleep. The monotonous music induced drowsi-
ness ; I fought valiantly against it, which was more
than Hamed did, for I suddenly found him snoring
beside me, wrapped in his burnous. I let him

RETURN TO GABES 89

repose, but from that moment conversation betwixt
myself and my foreign surroundings was limited to
the simplest compliments.

In the course of the afternoon the Khalifa
invited me to come back again and })e present at
the special bridal festival to be held five days later.
I promised to return.

Next morning — the 20th October — I left Hadeij
to ride back to Gab^s. I took leave of the Khalifa,
with many expressions of goodwill, adding, ** May
you soon have rain, that your olive trees may
neither wither nor die."

Just as we reached the first height, Mansur,
who had volunteered to follow me to Gabc^s, pointed
out how coal-black the heavens were in the direc-
tion of the sea, and how the lightning flashed and
the thunder rolled, saying, '* Allah has heard your
good wish. It will rain in the Matmata mountains."

When we descended into the plain, the rain
pelted in our faces. We put on our burnouses,
pulled the hoods over our heads, and hurried on.
A moment after, we were wet through.

Mansur continually lagged behind ; it was diffi-
cult for him to keep up, and he begged us to ride
on without waiting for him.

Once we passed a shepherd with his flock ; the
sheep were all huddled together, the goats apart,
whilst he had taken shelter under a bush.

90 CAVE DWELLERS

We crossed a couple of river beds which, when
I passed a few days ago, had been dry and parched ;
now the water rushed over them in a rapid stream.
However our horses crossed easily, and I started
at a gallop, pushing quickly through rain and
slough, with the mud flying up to my ears, till,
the ground presently growing too slippery, I was
again reduced to going at foot's pace.

The palm grove of El Ilamdu gleamed through
the rain, but before we could reach the oasis the
river had to be crossed. The ford amongst the
tamarisk and oleander bushes we found easily,
but the torrent ran high. I urged my horse for-
ward, and he w^cnt slowly through the water till
he suddenly slipped and fell, wetting me to the
middle. I tried to turn him back, but the current
swept us to the side, and at last I gave up the
struggle, being afraid that my books nnd sketches
might get wet. Then I caught sight of Hamed, and
saw his horse, which was laden both before and
behind the saddle with my purchases, plunging
about in the swirling stream, and splashing the
water in every direction. I shouted to him to turn
l)ack.

We then followed the course of the river a long
way up, and tried to cross several times, but with-
out success.

A herd of little, thin, brown cattle walked along

RETURN TO GAB^S 91

the banks ; they had got separated, and some were
on either side of the river. They had apparently
no guardian, and were evidently endeavouring to
rejoin each other. Occasionally one of them would
plunge into the water, only to be driven l)ack to
the bank by the current, and we heard the dis-
tressed bellowing of the divided herd.

At last, at a spot where the river was very
broad, we succeeded in crossing without mishap,
but the water reached above the horses girths.

We then returned along the banks to the ford,
where we waited for half an hour before Mansur's
white horse appeared on the opposite shore. The
rain poured down incessantly, and our horses pawed
the ground impatiently, eager to get on, but we
were compelled to wait to direct Mansur where to
cross.

"To the left! to the left!" we shouted; but
Mansur had drawn his burnous so closely over his
head that he could neither see nor hear, and not till
he was close to the river were we able to attract his
attention ; then he also crossed safely, and we con-
tinued our way.

In the neighbourhood of the oasis we could hear
the El Hamdu folk crvin^ and lamentinor the rain-
fall. The date harvest of the oasis was not ended,
and, until it was over, water w^as injurious to the
dates. What is good for the ojives and the barley

92 CAVE DWELLERS

fields is injurious to the palms, the chief source of
subsistence of the people of the oases. All over the
world the agriculturist is the same.

Involuntarily I recollected a certain old fellow,
a countryman of mine, in a town in Jutland, who,
sitting at his dinner-table one day, complained
loudly that the Almighty had not taken pity on
the poor country folk and sent them a little rain
for their rye-fields ; when, at the very same in-
stant, there was a loud clap of thunder, and rain
suddenly pelted down without any warning. He
at once jumped up, rushed to the window and
excLiimed, " Oh, the devil ! now all my peat is gone
to ! "

Step by step our horses splashed on through the
puddles ; it was almost impossible to quicken our
pace ; so it was late in the day when we reached
Gabes, to find everything standing in pools.

The river had not been so swollen for many
years, and had done much damage.

Luckily, neither my sketches nor my purchases
had suffered.

CHAPTER VI

Of the Matmata Mountains and their

Inhabitants

The Matmata mountains form the northern spur
of the comparatively small range which, in a curved
line, follows more or less the bend of the coast.
Leaving a low stretch of land between itself and
the sea, this range runs first along the coast-line to
the south of Jurat (of which more hereafter), then
continues right into Tripoli, being broken only at
intervals.

Here and there it is inhabited by Berber tribes,
who are indeed Mohammedans, but have in great
measure retained unchanged their primitive habits
and customs.

In the mountains Ghurian and Jefren, to the
south of Tripoli, are found the brave independent
kinsmen of the Berbers of Tunisia. They recall
with pride the exploits of their ancestors, and rear
their sons to be a free people and to labour. There-
fore they have maintained their intelligence and
intellectual superiority, and have been able to
defy foreign rule, though not always with equal

98

94 CAVE DWELLERS

success. For example, in the Jel)el Jefren originated
all the disturbances which have occurred durin^j
the Turkish occupation of Tripoli.

North of Jebel Jefren is Jebel Nefusa, also
inhabited by Berbers, some of whom speak a dialect
resem])ling the language of the Tuareg. The
greater proportion of these are supposed to lye
descendants of the Libyans, wlio conquered the
country l)efore the Arabs, and who, like these last,
came also from the East.

It is the custom among some of the Nefus tribes,
in common with that of the Uled Nail of Algeria,
that their young women, for a time before marriage,
abandon tliemselves to prostitution. Tliis practice
naturally reminds one of the ancient cult of Astarte.

Tarik, conqueror of the Spaniards, was a Berber,
a native of Jebel Nefusa. Perchance he wiis one
of the race who had owned allegiance to Jewish
sway. At any rate, after he conipiered Spain, the
Jews there were treated by him with marked con-
sideration. In his case, as in that of so many
Berbers who were drawn into the mighty current
of Mohammedanism, they never became fanatical
Moslems, and the same may be said at the present
day.

Though indeed, like their kindred race the
Tuareg, they became Mohammedans (perhaps many
of them had been under Christian influence — at

MATMATA MOUNTAINS 95

least there are signs of it), they are not fanatics.

They have no special religious order, and they

belong to the so-called fifth sect, and are un-
acquainted with any ritual.

Not a few of these Berbers reside in caves,
" Jebel Ghurian " meaning literally *' the Mountain
of Caves." Before these cave dwellers became
Mohammedans, they raised altars to God ; and,
according to travellers, very ancient stone monu-
ments, dating from a period previous to that of
the Arabs, are to be found everywhere in these
regions. They resemble those found in Algeria, in
Andalusia, and even in Brittany.

The language of the country on the borders of
Tripoli and Tunisia is partly Arabic, partly Berber.
It is probable that in earlier times the Berber
tongue was spoken from Jebel Jefren over Duirat
to Matmata.

Books written in the Berber language are not
to be found here ; so far as we know (manuscripts
have been discovered on the island of Jerba), the
Berber dialect being written in Arabic characters.

I ascertained that the language of Southern
Tunisia is still spoken in the villages of Zaraua,
Tamezred, Tujud, Shenini, Ghermasi, and Duirat
(as also on the island of Jerba), and in part of
Urghamma.

From Jebel Jefren to the Matmata mountains,

96 CAVE DWELLERS

the lively natives closely resemble each other iu
their expressive eyes, happy dispositions, and ready
smile. Contrasted with the Arab, their countenances
are shorter and broader, and their hair less black.

They are essentially a free race. An assembly
of the people in the villages of Southern Tunisia,
' known as the '* Miad," settles tribal questions,
according to a local code (kanun) which is based
on ancient rules and customs, and is even more
highly revered than the Koran.

As arable land is extremely valuable, and the
inhabitants of the barren mountains are com-
paratively numerous, it has been the custom from
time immemorial, in Southern Tunisia at least, that
the young men should go to the coast towns in order
to earn money, wherewith, on their return, to buy
a house, palms, cattle, and a wife ; alike in this
respect to the Savoyards and Auvergnats who quit
their hearths and homes for a time.

In the towns these mountaineers live with the
utmost frugality, sleeping generally by the road-
side, and earning their bread by all sorts of work,
such as water-carrying, domestic service, etc.

When in 1 881-1882 the French army invaded the
mountiiins of Southern Tunisia, they were astonished
to find that many of the natives spoke French.

The '* Ksar" dwellers are brave and hardy, and
accustomed to "hear the powder speak." Their

MATMATA MOUNTAINS 97

delight used to be to sally out on a raid, when they
made matters hot for all concerned. They were
not ordinary thieves — no, weapon in hand they fell
on their adversaries, who could never feel secure
from a couj) de main.

On the other hand, they, in their inaccessible and
fortified eyries, were prepared to defend themselves.

Their plundering raids extended over the Tri-
politan frontier, even as far as Rhadam^s. They
always plundered thoroughly. Dr. Bertholon states
that when he, as military surgeon, served in the
campaign against them, they not only seized all
the herds, but even the clothes of their victims.
So completely did they strip prisoners, that these
would be left with only a scrap of shirt which
barely covered them.

The people of the adjacent oases on the plain
and towards the *' Shotts," who are more peaceful
and phlegmatic, the circumstances of their lives
being better, have often suffered from the attacks
and depredations of the mountaineers, when they
have not chosen to purchase immunity by paying
blackmail to the latter.

Dr. Bertholon maintains that monogamy is usual
amongst them, but my experience leads me to a
different conclusion, since the men of rank with
whom I came in contact had generally several

wives.

7

98 CAVE DWELLERS

The abduction of women was not uncommon in
earlier times, when the armed inhabitants of the
Ksar used to carry off their wives by force.

That they had to guard their women carefully
is not strange, since these have the reputation of
being light of mprals.

One custom is universal amongst these people ;
it is that at the wedding the bridegroom shows his
bride a heavy stick, of which one end that he holds
to her nose is thoroughly and sweetly scented.
The interpretation of this custom being that so long
as she conducts herself properly, her life will be mild
and pleasant like the scent ; but, on the other hand,
should she misbehave she may be sure of being
well punished. I saw one of these sticks at Tatuin.

As I wished to form some idea of the manner
in which a family lived and worked together in the
small troglodyte communities, I took advant^ige of
my stay with the Khalifa of Hadeij to procure
information regarding his family and the life they
led in common.

These inquiries I had to make with the greatest
discretion, for I would not for the world have given
them a chance of misjudging me, or of supposing
that I had come amongst them to spy. By degrees
I put together what I saw and heard till the whole
picture is, I may venture to say, correct in the
main, though some of the minor details may have

M ATM AT A MOUNTAINS 99

been misunderstood by me, or have escaped my
observation .

Sadi-ben Mansur-Fatush, as Khalifa of the moun-
tains, exercises authority over the villages of the
Matmata range. He is born of the tribe of Uled
Sliman, of which his son is a tribal sheikh.

The BLhalifais between sixty and seventy years
of age, and has three wives, Mena, Fatima, and
Sasia. By the first he has two sons, Amar and
Mansur. By the second, one son, Mohammed. He
has probably daughters also ; if so, they are married
and live at a distance, and no longer interest either
their family or tribe. I could not gain any informa-
tion as to whether any had married within the tribe
itself.

Sheikh Amar has two wives ; the first is named
Aisha, the second Meriam. He has two sons,
Abderahman (by Aisha) and Mahmud (by Meriam).

Mansur, who bears the title of " Adel" (notary)
of the Uled Sliman, has only one wife, named Uda,
and no child.

Mohammed, " Kateb " (scribe) to the Uled Sliman,
is his fathers secretary. His first wife is called
Meriam, and by her he has a son — Hamed. His
second wife, to whom he was married during my
stay in Hadeij, is called Mena ; she is of the Uled
Sliman, and a native of the village that bears the
name of that tribe. -i.

loo CAVE DWELLERS

The age of tlio Khalifa's sons may be on an
average about twenty-two, none of their wives being
probably over twenty. Of the children of these
marriages the eldest of the boya is about five years
old.

The Khalifa's family, therefore, consists of about
a score of souls, who, as will be seen further on, live

together ; but to these must be added other mem-
bers of tlie household, negroes and servants with
their children, and a number of near relatives, and of
men who attach themselves to the Khalifa's service.
Many of the latter have homes of their own, and
possess palms, olive trees and cattle, which they
farm on their own account, but being dependants of
the Khalifa miistk help him to sow and reap his corn,

MATMATA MOUNTAINS loi

prune his palms, gather the dates and olives, press
the oil, and, in short, do any work of which they are
capable.

The Khalifa is very rich, lie owns many under-
ground dwellings, barns, stables and oil mills, but a
large proportion of the profits of all these must be
expended in providing food and shelter for the
infinity of people whom he protects. His large
lauded property and all his possessions will be
divided, when he dies, amongst his sons, who at
present own only what the old patriarch chooses to
give them, but after his death each will have his
own palm and olive trees, his own house and
cattle ; unless they prefer to continue living in
fellowship.

The Khalifa's property is valued at some two
hundred thousand francs — a pretty penny for a moun-
taineer living amongst barren hills devoid of either
springs or wells, but where the cliffs and valleys are
furrowed with channels to conduct the rain-water to
cisterns, and where every tree must have the earth
banked about it that the water may lie at its foot.

We will now examine the dwelling used by the
Khalifa and his family, and endeavour to form an
idea of how the various married couples are accom-
modated ; thus ascertaining that, notwithstanding
patriarchal house-government and community of
life, each little group has its own portion, however

I02 CAVE DWELLERS

small, of the dwelling set aside for its own exclusive
use.

The soil in the valley of Hadeij is composed of
strong clay and marl, which lend themselves admir-
ably to the excavation of regular well -shaped
chambers. These have an advantage over dwell-
ings built above ground, in that they are cooler in
summer and warmer in winter, besides being easier
to defend ; they are not open to discovery by
strange, unaccustomed eyes, and afford good protec-
tion against thieves and robbers, for cattle can also
find shelter within them.

The formation of the valley is undulating, and
extends over low hills divided by smooth level
ground or by narrow gorges, where streams flow in
the rainy season. Seen from the mountain, the
whole looks like a great sand-pit scored with faint
paths, and with depressions where the olive and
palm trees grow amongst the mounds.

The plan of a dwelling is as follows : —

From the side of a hill, and through the solid
earth, leads an underground path — long or short, as
the case may be — and quite the height of a man.
This takes one to the ground-level of a large square
excavation, open overhead, which is generally dug in
the highest part of the hill, and forms the courtyard.
The walls of this court are perpendicular and smooth.
From the ground - level of this cave one enters

MATMATA MOUNTAINS 105

through an opening, a somewhat long underground
chamber with a vaulted roof, like that of a wine
vault. These chambers are used either as stores,
stables, or dwelling-places.

The courtyards measure, as a rule, between
eleven and twelve feet in depth and breadth.

The side caves are usually about twenty-seven
feet long, but not even half that in breadth ; though
I liave seen them both larger and smaller. These
rooms are generally furnished witli doors. The
passage also is, as a rule, closed at both the outer
and the inner end by means of a strong door or
gate.

In the court is a fireplace intended for common
use ; in wet weather the cooking is done in one of
the underground rooms. Further, there is often a
tjink into which water is conducted by pipes from the
earth's surfiice. At the sides of the court stand large
rush baskets filled with corn, and sufficient space
remains for fowls and domestic animals, when, under
special circumstances, such as threatened danger,
these are driven within.

Here and there in the passages are recesses for
stabling horses and donkeys, which stand therefore
in utter darkness.

Id a cave chamber it is dark when the door is
closed, otherwise there is sufficient light.

The accompanying sketch shows some of the

>

io6 CAVE DWELLERS

dwellings inhabited by the Khalifa and his nearest
relatives.

From the flat, smooth, open space grown with
olive and palm trees, leads the passage to the court-
yard.

Dwellings I. and II. are united, and have but
one entrance. Through the gate (A) is the entrance
to a cave passage, and thereby to the first court-
yard. Here arc to be found the following chambers :
One for the horses, one for the sheep, one containing
a tank, another is a kitchen, and, lastly, a store.

From the first courtyard one passes through
another cave passage into courtyard No. II. This
provides dwellings for all the Khalifa s sons with
their wives and children, and for the mothers of
these sons.

The Khalifa himself resides at night in an ad-
jacent cave in company with his third wife, but both
spend the day w^ith the rest of the family in court-
yard No. XL, where they cook and eat in common.
As far as I could ascertain, no domestics live
here.

This courtyard is furnished with rush baskets
for corn, and with a fireplace.

Amar has two chambers, one for each of his
wives ; and his mother has another close by, so they
occupy a whole side of the court.

Two chambers are used as l>arley stores.

M ATM ATA MOUNTAINS 107

Fatima, Mohammed's mother, has a room, and
beside it is another to which Mohammed's second
wife was brought. Exactly opposite lives Moham-
med's first wife, and, on the same side, Mausur and
his only wife.

Last of all comes the kitchen.

I visited all these caves ; each woman had her
household pots and pans prettily arranged on the
inner wall of the chamber, as our cooks do their
brass utensils on their kitchen walls. Ranged on the
sides were various articles, while in the centre of
the clay floor, adorned, as a rule, with rush matting
or with carpets, stood what appeared to be a low
table. This is the sleeping couch, on which carpets
are generally spread ; on this the inmates sleep
without undressing.

The whitewashed walls are bare but for the guns
which are sometimes hung there, as also keys, yarn,
etc.

In Mohammed's and Mansur's rooms I saw some
frightful framed pictures, apparently supposed to
represent the Prophet, and evidently cheap rubbish
bought at Gabds, corresponding in all respects to
the coloured prints of the Christ which we find in
every cottage in our country.

The comfortable cave rooms, and even the court-
yard, were clean and well kept. The fowls, indeed,
had the run of yard No. IT., but it was evidently

io8 CAVE DWELLERS

forbidden to cattle, which were restricted to the
first yard.

By a loug underground passage, provided with
side recesses for horses and donkeys, one entered
yard No. 111. ; its chambers included a large banquet-
ing hall, the roof of which was composed of two
parallel vaults, supported where they met by a
central row of pillars. This hall occupied one
entire side of the court, and opposite to it were
two rooms, used when I was there as guest-cham-
bers ; one of these I occupied. They could also be
utilised as corn stores ; to this end a shaft is dug
from the surface, through the solid earth to the
dome, so that the corn may be poured down ; and
when the camels bring the grain, it is unloaded near
the mouth of the shaft.

Near the entrance to the passage are two rooms,
also available as stores for grain, but during my visit
they were used as dwellings for several male servants.

In yard No. IV. lived a negro family, who were
entrusted with the care of Mohammed's and Amar's
two horses, and the two mules belonging to the
Khalifa and Mansur which were stabled there.
There was also a corn store, where the barley for
the horses and mules was kept, a writing-room, and
a tank.

These four yards were used indiscriminately by
the Khalifa and his household.

MATMATA MOUNTAINS 109

Now we come to the two other dwellings — V.
and VI. In one lived a cousin of the Khalifa ; the
other was occupied by an old fellow called Uncle
Srair Feteish, under the same conditions as the
courts already mentioned.

A little farther off was the dwelling occupied
by the Khalifa and his third wife ; this was also
composed of subterranean rooms, two on either side.
One of these chambers was occupied by the Khalifa
and his third wife, one by an Arab servant, another
was used to keep clothing in, a fourth as a kitchen,
two others as stores for dates, and the last as a
writing-room.

Owing to his official position, the Khalifa has
a certain amount of correspondence, and therefore
requires a proper place in which to preserve docu-
ments. These are all written in Arabic characters ;
the Berber alphabet being unknown in Hadeij, and
but little, I believe, in the whole of Southern
Tunisia. Though in many villages the Berber
language is spoken, it is not in Hadeij, where it
appears to be forgotten in spite of the natives
being Berbers.

The above-mentioned dwellings are far from
being the only ones possessed by the Khalifa, for
both in Hadeij proper and in the environs he owns
several houses occupied by his retainers. He also
owns caves, reserved for his occasional use, in the

no CAVE DWELLERS

vicinity of his distant groves of palms and olives,
when, as in harvest time, the trees have to be
watched.

The caves that I saw in the Matmata mountains
were, with few exceptions, of the same description.
Of these exceptions may be mentioned the caves I
found in Sid ben Aissa. To these led uncovered ways,
so that one liad a direct view into the courtyards from
the outside. Also at Beni Sultan I observed steps
that sloped from the upper surface to the courtyard.
The rooms in this instance were not so symme-
trical ; many of them were not excavated on the
same level as the court, but were raised a few-
steps above it. This very irregularity rendered these
caves more picturesque and interesting than those of
Iladcij.

In the enclosures were several tanks, and in the
rooms 1 saw women spinning with wheels.

The approach to these houses was by means of
steps cut in the calcareous soil ; where the steps
teraiinated was a gate by which one passed into a
fine vaulted underground chamber, and thence into
the courtyard.

The Sheikh of Beni Sultan owned also an oil
mill, erected in an underground cave, that, with its
vaults and colonnades, closely resembled the crypt
of a church. In one of these vaults I saw the mill,
which is worked Ij)^ a donkey or a camel, and is

MATMATA MOUNTAINS iii

composed of a large round stone turning on a broad
low stone cylinder. In a neighbouring vault close
by was erected a primitive oil press.

In Duirat, the most southern village of Tunisia,
I found caves of a rather different description.
These were of the same dimensions as the chambers
already described, and were cut in the sides of cliffs.
Before the door of the caves an enclosure was
frequently made, and within this stood a house,
through the centre of which was a passage leading
into the cave.

This style of building has the advantage that
in summer the natives can seek the shelter of the
cave, where it is cooler than in the house ; and,
again, should the house be attacked, they could
retire into the cave, the entrance being easy to
defend.

That the dwellings are not all caves probably
arises from the fact that there is not always
sufficient space in the mountains for the many
large chambers required to accommodate a number
of people. The cave is the original dwelling; the
house followed as an appendage. The hedged-in
enclosure mentioned can be utilised as a shelter for
cattle.

Near Tatuin I noticed, in passing, a rock cave
that was merely an irregularly dug hole. It was
inhabited.

112 CAVE DWELLERS

In the iiiountaius I discovered several of tlie
same description, but uninhabited ; being occupied
in harvest time, when the dates and olives need
guarding.

At Tujau I saw, excavated in the cliffs,
several ancient caves with small terraces in front

of tliem ; they had long liccu abandoned as
dwellings.

Lastly, I must touch briefly on a mode of build-
ing found on the plains, in the villages of Mctamer
and Mcdinin, and evidently deriving its origin from
the cave.

Small, oblong, domed houses are built side by

MATMATA MOUNTAINS 115

side in a square, thus forming a complete citadel
of exactly the same form as a cave dwelling ; the
plan of cave construction having been copied above-
ground.

In Southern Tunisia there are numerous large
villages, such as Hadeij, Lasheish, Ben Aissa, be-
sides some smaller, as, for instance, Judlig, which
are composed exclusively of cave dwellings.

Moreover, caves are found mingled with other
dwellings in Beni Sultan, Smerten, and Sguimi.

Cave dwellings therefore prevail in the valleys,
and real houses on the mountains.

Finally, the more primitive caves are found on
mountain slopes, as, for instance, at Duirat.

The villages that consist of houses are of stone
or sun-dried blocks of clay. They stand, as a rule,
high on the mountains, and much resemble those
of the Kabail in Algeria, or the ancient French
villages on the mountains of Auvergne.

CHAPTER VII

From Gabes to the Oasis of El Hamma —

The Shotts

Just after I had changed my clothes, the hotel waiter
announced that a sheikh wished to see me, who,
when ushered in, proved to l)e Mansur ; following
him came Hamed. They both looked so very
serious that I feared something had gone wrong;
l)ut Hamed, observing my puzzled expression,
wliispered to me that Mansur had come to invite
mc to tlie wedding feast.

After 1 had returned Mansur s greeting, we both
sat down, lie on the bed cross-legged, I on a chair,
while Hamed showed some tact by placing himself
behind me to serve as interpreter, for Mansur
understood little French.

After an interchange of compliments, which were
indubitably sincere on either side, Mansur came to
the point. His father, the Khalifa, had desired
him to say, that if I would go to Hadeij and be
present at the last great feast on the fifth day, he
would regard it as a proof of my friendship for
him and for the Matmata ; that I should be treated

116

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA 117

as a. bmther, ami if I woiiKI remain tlicre many,
many years I should be welcome.

Maiisur came again the following day to see me ;
with him and Hanied I visited the villages of Jara
and Menxel, where I intended making purchases for

our National Museum, and therefore re(|uired their
heli>.

In the great Sok (niarket-i>Iacp) 1 liuitght agri-
cultural imi»h'mcnt.s, !ioen and spades, — wliieli were
made under ray eye, — one of the primitive ploughs
and its liarness of plaited esparto grass ; and, histly,
a collection of garments. Consequentl}' there was

ii8 CAVE DWELLERS

much noise and lively quarrelling, though it did not
reach quite the same pitch as recently in Lasheish.

In the afternoon I took a carriage with the
British Vice-Consul Galleja and his brother, Cesare
Galleja, two exceedingly obliging men, and drove to
the village of Menzel, as I wished to obtain some
reliable information from an Arab there, about the
marriage customs of the country.

On our return we met the Khalifa of Gab(5s, who
told us he was also invited to the wedding at Hadeij,
but had been obliged to refuse as he could not leave
Gab(58, General Allegro being absent ; therefore in
the interim, the government of the whole district
fell entirely on himself. He advised me to take
with me a small bridal gift, so the same evening
I bought a fine haik.

The military officers at Gabes are nearly all
unmarried. Those of the same grade mess together
— that is to say, they engage a cook who provides
for them.

The lieutenants of tlie 4tli African Light
Battalion and some otlier officers invited me to
dine at their mess. We were altooretlier a score
of men, and I spent a bright and pleasant evening
amongst my new African friends ; and made acquaint-
ances which were to be renewed some days later in
the south, whither several of them were immediatelv
proceeding.

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA 119

This was the first, but not the last, time that I
while in these regions had the pleasure of replying
to the toast of " To the Danish soldier," with " I
drink long life to the French army," with whom I
served eleven years ago when they were fighting in
the south.

On the 22nd October, Hamed and I again left
Gab^s, starting with the dawn at 5.30 a.m., and
proceeding this time in a westerly direction.

The Spahis had supplied me with a small but
powerfully - built brown horse, capable of pacing
between five and six miles an hour when so inclined.
At first it wanted to hurry on, but I restrained it,
and we walked past the village of Menzel, and
traversed the palm groves, where the birds twittered,
and the smoke from huts and tents rose to the tree-
tops. It was bitterly cold, and we wrapped our
l)urnouses closely about us. When we rode out of
the oasis the sun had risen, and cast our shadows in
long lines on the undulating golden-grey plain.

Far away to our right the rays of the sun were
reflected from the whitewashed w^alls of a Maral^out's
toml), built on a hillside. There also stood the
poste ojytiqiie, which is in communication with
another on a mountain near Medinin, the southern
military station.

We allowed our horses to break into a hand
gallop that refreshed us in the beautiful morning,

120 CAVE DWELLERS

as, with a keeii sense of enjoyment, we followed tlic
tracks that, with countless windings, led towards
ttie west.

There was little vegetation ; the land lay before
us barren and desolate.

Before renchiug tlio summit of a slight rise we
pulled up our horses to a walk, ami presently looked
l)ack from the top of the oniinonce.

A haze hung ilircctly over (Jalx-s ; the palms of
the oasis extended as far as the sea, and behind
them glittered the bright waves. Away towards
the south we could distiuguish the blue peaks of

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA 121

the Matmata mountains. Here and there on the
plain l)lue-grey smoke rose into the air.

The heat of the sun became scorching, so we
allowed our horses to go at foot's pace during the
remainder of the way. In Africa one finds but two
paces — a walk, or rather an amble, and a gallop ;
but on a long summer journey the gallop or canter
is rarely used ; Berber horses, therefore, are trained
to walk fast. It is expected of a cheval cle la
plaine that he should be un hon marcheur, that is
to say, that he can be depended on to cover his
five or six miles an hour, and to keep up this pace
the whole day long.

When we had ridden about a third of the way,
we crossed the river ; near it is an ancient well that
has been used since the time of the Romans.

From the level of the ground was constructed a
walled, paved, and inclined passage ; this was covered
in, and terminated at the spring, from which were
built upright walls to the surface of the earth,
forming the well. Thus the water can either l)e
drawn from the top or carried up the steps.

During the next couph* of hours we met only a
few riders and pedestrians.

A mountain plateau of no great height now
showed before us, ])ut a little to our left. Towards
the north it lost itself in the plain in a level slope,
over which wound the track.

122 CAVE DWELLERS

On the hill the soil was washed or blown away,
leaving the barren flat rocks naked, and the horses
had difficulty in keeping their footing amongst the
large rough stones. In one place the path wound
on either side of a small pile of stones. This heap
was the length of a man, and lay east and west.
Haraed informed me that it covered the remains of
one who had been murdered on this spot many
years ago.

After a time we reached the highest point of
our day's journey, and came upon a magnificent
view.

The foreground was composed of a level, stony
slope of dull-yellow soil. Where it ended we saw
a long, narrow, grey strip with a tufted ])order ;
this is part of the palm grove of El Hamma oasis.
Beyond it, to the left — therefore to the south-west
— ran a mountain ridge, and farther on the right was
a shining level plain, somewhat white in appearance.
This is the **shott" of El Fejcj. It resembled the
sea when dead calm, and seemed as though it had
flowed thence to lose itself far away in the western
horizon.

North of the *'shott" the mountains tower up
in successive tiers, the foremost, of a deep blue tint,
contrasting sharply with the white flat surface of the
" shott."

Beyond are paler blue peaks, and beyond

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA 123

them again the vague outlines of far - distent
mountains.

Sliott Fejej is the most easterly of the " shotts "
that extend in a long line from the Sahara south of
Biskra to the Mediterranean, thus covering a track
of between two and three hundred miles.

It is only separated from the Mediterranean by
Le Seuil de Gab(5s, a small strip of land about
eleven miles wide.

A " shott " is low-lying land of which the soil is
clay saturated with salt ; this in the rainy season is
flooded by the overflow of the rivers, and dries by
evaporation. Seen from a distance, a shott has the
appearance of a lake, but on approaching it one is
disappointed to find that this glittering flat surface
is only a crust of saltpetre.

Not only is travelling extremely dangerous on
this sodden ground, but the shott is stifling hot in
summer, and in winter bitterly cold.

Drummond Hay told me that at the beginning of
the year, he, with only one servant and a guide, had
ridden over Shott Jerid on his way from Kebelli to
Tozer. Though warmly clad, he was nearly frozen,
and his fingers could scarcely grasp the reins from
the cold. The way lay along a narrow path, and
on either side was bog ; a single false step means
death.

It is asserted that it is only in the centre of

124 CAVE DWELLERS

Shott el Jerid that there is always water ; but this
is not apparent, as it is entirely covered by a crust
of salt, on which footsteps resound as they do when
passing over a vault. The water naturally flows to
the lowest level ; but when the wind blows, it
sweeps the water in various directions over the
salt crust ; this breaks under the weight, and the
level is thus altered. At times there may be as
much water in the shott as would reach to a horse's
girths.

The crust is also occasionally forced up from
below by water and certain gases, and, rising, forms
small conical mounds, giving the impression of an
impending volcanic eruption. These little mounds
lie like islands on the sea ; but, in consequence of
the reflection from the surface, appear to be hills
of some height, and are visible for many miles
around.

One of these, the largest, is called "Jebel el
Malah " (the salt mountain). It is only some twenty
paces in diameter, and scarcely a yard in height
above the level of the shott, ])ut looks from the
distance like a fair-sized hill. In the centre of this
hill of salt was formerly an old well, now filled up.
It contained water of the same quality as that still
found in several other wells in the shott, which is
not more brackish than that found in the oases of
the vicinity and considered drinkable.

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA 125

The caravan roads traverse the shotts, leading
from verge to verge amongst the oases. Some of
these roads are very unsafe. The traveller has to be
most careful to avoid being bogged, or plunged
suddenly into a hole ; as told of a whole Egyptian
army, which, according to tradition, found here its
grave. Step by step must the traveller work his
way forward, perhaps through clouds of dust ; whilst
a mirage may rise to tempt and deceive him.
Should his guide make the least mistake, or the
ciimel or horse he rides step aside, all is over.

According to custom, usage, and agreement be-
twixt the tribes, the roads over tlie shotts are
supposed to be defined ])y stones, or felled palm
trunks, placed at distances of about a hundred
yards apart ; but in places these, which are called
" Gmair," are missing ; in others they are replaced
by camel bones.

The Arabs relate frightful misfortunes that have
befallen on these tracks. Whole caravans have been
known to have been swallowed up by this treacher-
ous earth crust, which at once closes over its prey.

The land amidst the shotts is /jar excellence tlie
home of the date-palm. In the oases of Tozer and
Nafta are found the best quality of dates known.
This clear transparent fruit is sold at £6 the hun-
dredweight. In El Hamma, on the other hand, the
dates are not of the l^est quality, the oasis being too

A

126 CAVE DWELLERS

near the sea, and the air, therefore, too damp. This
explains what one hears of the dates of Gab^s being
sold at only twelve shillings the hundredweight, or
one tenth of the price of those from Nafta.

Many authors and explorers, both ancient and
modern, have imagined that in the basin of the
shotts they had discovered the Triton sea of Hero-
dotus, believing the river bed of Wad Malah to be
the lower course of the Triton river, which connected
that mysterious lagoon with the sea.

Though this hypothesis has never been proved,
Raudaire, captain of the general staff, conceived in
1878 the bold project of reconstructing the old
Triton sea, by leading water into the immense basin
of the shotts. He thought it would be only neces-
sary to dig through the eleven miles of the wide
chalky tract near Gab^s to form a large inland sea.
From this scheme great advantages were to ])e
gained. The southern French frontier would ])e
protected by a natural barrier. The re-created
Triton sea would soon be traversed liy shipping,
thereby leading to mercantile relations being estab-
lished with regions and people hitherto unknown.

And what a change might result in the climate !
The moisture would create fruitful stretches of land,
where colonists would flock in numbers.

Alas ! the project, vigorously supported at the
outset by the Government, proved untenable after

FROM GAB1§:S TO EL HAMMA 127

further investigation in 1876. Raudaire's survey
had not been accurate. The western shott did
indeed lie twenty metres below the sea-level, but
the immense shotts of " Jerid " and " Fejej " proved,
on the other hand, to be as much above it ; so that
the canal would have had to be prolonged nearly
one hundred and fifty miles, and even then only the
first named of these shotts would be submerged.

This unfortunate revelation did not dishearten
either Raudaire or his celebrated supporter, Lesseps ;
and, until the death of the former, in 1885, he —
Raudaire — defended his project with an energy and
determination worthy of a better cause, and in spite
of the State having wisely withdrawn its support.
Lesseps still visited the ground on several occasions,
and positively asserted that at the cost of a hundred
and fifty millions of francs the scheme was feasible.

From past events it is sad to note that great
minds like Lesseps s often have recourse to dubious
expedients when they desire to lancer une affaire.

All other learned authorities — geologists and
scientific men, such as Parnel, Letourneux, Doumet-
Adamson, and others — had, long before, sharply
criticised Raudaire's fantastic project, and declared
that the sea had never in ancient times occupied
the flats now filled by the shotts. Indeed, Cosson
further maintained that had this proposed inland
sea been successfully dammed, it would soon have

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128 CAVE DWELLERS

been imperatively necessary to fill it up again, so
much opposed would it have been to the general
interest.

All were, moreover, agreed that it was highly
improbable that the climate would l)e influenced to
any extraordinary degree ; that, by admitting the
water, millions of date-palms would be destroyed,
and most of the springs which now fertilise the
oases of the Jerid would be tainted and spoiled by
the salt water, thus causing the ruin of the country ;
finally, the project would cost a thousand (in place
of a hundred and fifty) millions of francs.

Lesseps's repeated assurances of the accuracy of
his researches were received very coldly, though this
was before the occurrence of the Panama affair.

Now the question is closed, and one hears noth-
ing more of the company formed in 1882 by
the great Frenchman, pour la creation de la mer
interieure. The old man's prestige had been on
the wane for some years already. Yet the day will
come when the memory of his important works will
obliterate the recollection of the errors of the even-
ing of his life, and history will again grant him the
title which is his due — that of " the great French-
man."

CHAPTER VIII

The Oasis of El Hamma

On tha soutliernmoBt border of this oasis lies a
village built of sunburnt stones, and of which the
narrow lanes were almost deserted when we passed
through it.

The Khalifa lived on the outskirts towards the
south, and when we arrived he was squatting on a
stone bench that ran the whole length of the outer
wall of his house. The shade was delicious beneath
the eaves of the broad roof supported by two rows
of felled palm-tree stems. I cannot help thinking
that these were the origin of the pillars of the .
ancients, and suggested to the Egyptians the design
for the columns of their temples, and, through them,
those of the Greeks and Romans in their magni-
ficent temple halls.

Around the Khalifa were sitting, standing, or
lying, groups of loud-voiced men, all talking. He
was holding a court of justice, which was attended
with the wrangling, jostling and thrusting, usual on
such occasions.

Crouched in front of him was a man, near whom

•

A

I30 CAVE DWELLERS

were a woman and child, and around them was
gathered an interested, excited crowd.

The woman, with outstretched hands, addressed
the Khalifa, speaking in a subdued voice and
with the striking gestures peculiar to Orientals.
She was immediately interrupted by the man, who
shouted and gesticulated. Other men joined in. I
saw arms and clenched fists in constant motion,
and was deafened by the noise rising from every
side.

The Khalifa, a man of about fifty, sat, mild and
amiable, gazing at the crowd with his deep black
eyes. His fine figure was slight and noble, and his
features refined, with a slightly hooked nose and a
full beard, through which his fingers were occasion-
ally passed. Now and then a hidden fire flashed
from his expressive eyes as he made a remark.
Then the shouts of the crowd would moderate, but
only for a moment, and again the storm broke loose.

At last it really grew too bad, and w^hat I had
expected for some time came to pass — one of the
Khalifas men punished the crowd with a stick.
Some retreated a little, others remained calmly
seated, and the inquisition recommenced, until again
the demonstrations became too violent.

Our arrival interrupted this scene for a time. I
was kindly received and shown to a dwelling on the
first floor of a side wing.

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 131

When my baggage had been brought in, at his
invitation I seated myself beside the Khalifa on his
carpeted bench, where we partook of the " welcome "
of coflFee in tiny cups, whilst we discussed my jour-
ney and my motives in undertaking it.

The man, woman, and child remained unmoved
all the time, and stared at us from the same spot
where, probably, they had been for hours. She was
old, ugly, and wrinkled, and gazed vacantly before
her. The child, a pretty ten-year-old boy, looked
inquisitively at me with his fine black eyes, whilst
the man drew his hood over his head and hid his
hands under his burnous, so that he appeared to be
a mere white bundle.

Thus they sat, resigned to their fate, the men
around keeping moderately quiet. If one or another
became noisy, he was silenced by one of the Khalifa's
attendants.

I begged the Khalifa to continue his judicial
proceedings, and, after some hesitation, he did so,
leaving me seated on his carpet, and going aside a
little took his place beneath one of the pillars.

Whilst the flies swarmed in myriads about me,
and the hubbub of men's voices buzzed in my ears,
I leant against the wall and gazed before me. From
the subdued light beneath the shade of the eaves
my eyes scanned the sunlit plain which extended to
the mountains. To the right the palm tops on the

132 CAVE DWELLERS

southern edge of the great groves of the oasis quivered
in the glittering light. Below them I perceived the
brown tops of tents. Before me, close to a stone
dyke which crossed the foreground, the plain was
covered with long low mounds. On each of these
stood, facing the east, a small fiat stone, or a little
dazzling white cupola. This is the cemetery, sug-
gestive of a stone-strewn strand.

Among the graves sat in clusters some white
peaked bundles. I imagined them to be people
performing their devotions, but soon they moved,
and I caught sight of an implement shining in the
air above the white points, and was told they were
men digging a grave.

Only a few hours earlier, in the tents below the
palms, a man, still in the prime of life, died of the
insidious fever of these regions, and was shortly to
be buried.

When the brawling of the crowd around me was
hushed, I heard a wailing sound as of hounds bay-
ing in the distance. No doubt the lamentations of
the women.

The grave was soon ready, and some of the
white figures strolled oflF to the village, the rest
returning to the camp.

For about half an hour I sat gasping with the
heat and endeavouring to keep oflf the flies with a
palm-leaf fan.

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 133

The man, woman, and child were still before the
Khalifa, but I hardly noticed any longer the loud
tones of the bystanders. Not that they had ceased
wrangling, but that my ears had grown accustomed
to the sound. Now and again one of the sons came
and conversed with me, but I begged to be left in
peace.

At last came the funeral. Four men bore on
their shoulders a bier, over which was thrown a
burnous. The bearers hurried along, followed by
some fifty men clad in white burnouses, and behind
them as many women in dark dresses. From these
arose sobbing cries in measured time.

The noise near me subsided a little ; some of the
crowd wandered down to the plain to join the
funeral, and gradually dispersed altogether.

The wailing of the women came distinctly to my
ears, and in the centre of their group I saw a pair
of white arms stretched to heaven.

Now the lamentations were stilled, and a death-
like silence reigned during the midday hour ; only
the buzzing of the flies was to be heard.

Taken aback by the sudden hush, I looked about
me ; there still sat the man, woman, and child
gazing over the plain.

The bier was now deposited on the ground.
Around it crouched the glaring white figures, their
hoods drawn forward and their hands covering their

134 CAVE DWELLERS

faces, while the prayer for the dead was recited.
The men appeared grief-stricken. Who could tell
when Allah might call away another, or knew but
what it might be his own turn to be summoned
next morning ! For the fever raged distressingly in
the oasis. So sounds of lamentation rose from the
dark group which showed so sadly and so strikingly
against the pale golden-brown of the plain and beside
the gleaming white crowd of men.

" He was so good, so proud, so strong, but yesterday.
Now he is dead, his wife is aU alone.

Oh woe, oh woe, oh woe.
Now she grieves, his children and his friends weep.

Oh woe, oh woe," etc.

While this w^ail rose from the sombre crowd, 1
saw white arms flung repeatedly heavenward.

The plaintive song increased in strength, till it
sounded like a fearful howl, and I saw the women
tearing their hair and scratching their faces. This
lasted some little time.

Meanwhile the body was laid in the ground ;
the men sitting around in silence and weeping,
whereas the wail of the women resounded louder
and yet louder.

When the prayers were ended, the men rose and
returned home, each going to his work ; only a few
remaining to fill up the grave.

A little later the women alone were left, but
they had parted into two groups. In the one they

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 135

stood erect, and from these came wailings ; in the
other group the figures squatted on the ground,
resting while their companions mourned.

The Khalifa returned, and again the original
noisy mob gathered around him.

The women out there had meanwhile exchanged
places several times to take their turn of wailing.
At last, after a lapse of half an hour, they started
homewards, going to the encampment where the
dead man's tent was then being struck. Like a rag it
lay on the earth, in token of the home being broken
up, and not till later, when the first great grief had
subsided, would it be raised again.

During this interval a meal had been prepared
for me, so I retired to my room where it was de-
lightfully cool.

Up a steep external stair I climbed from the
yard to a room, and through that to another adjoin-
ing it, this last being very spacious. The roof was
built of palm beams, laid one against the other,
and supported in the centre by a pillar. The walls
were whitewashed and lined below with rush mat-
ting, and the whole floor was covered with beautiful
thick, soft carpets of great value. In one corner
were cushions and pillows for a couch ; in another
our saddles, bags, and rugs were neatly arranged. A
little window with an artistic iron grating overlooked
the roof of the pillared verandah ; this window was

136 CAVE DWELLERS

fitted with a shutter which couhl be closed at will
to keep out the light and tlie flies.

One of the Khalifa's sons kept me company
whilst I ate.

After Ilamed and the other attendants had
consumed the remainder of the meal in the next
room, I had the door and the shutter closed,
and lay down in the half darkness for a mid-
day nap. It was almost impossible to sleep on
account of the noise in the verandah, but at last
I dozed off.

ILinied woke me presently to tell me that there
was a wedding in the oasis, and that if I wished to
see the bride brought home I must hasten. So I
started, together with some of the sons and depend-
ants of the house. As we passed the cemetery 1
saw that the women had again gathered there, and
could hear their lamentations, so I hurried on into
the street, trying to shake oft* the mournful impres-
sion, before joining in rejoicings.

On the way I met an Arab who, with a good
French accent, said, "Bern jour, Monsieur." It was
(me of the Khalifas n^taiiiers, who now owned a
little palm grove and home in the oasis, but who,
some years ago, had serve<l in the Algerian tirriU-
hurs, and therefore spoke good French.

I was delighted with this new acquaintance, as
tlirou<j:li him I should be better able to make mvself

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 137

uudcrstood than through my good Hamed, so I asked
him to accompany me.

On the way he told me that he had served in
Mexico and, later, in the war with Germany. He
had been wounded on three occasions, and showed
me his scars with pride. The last time he was
wounded was in the battle of Gravelotte. He was
afterwards kept a prisoner in a little town in Ger-
many, and since had completed his long term of
service in Algiers.

From the street we espied a man on the top
of a palm tree behind a high wall ; he was busy
gathering the date crop. I lingered to watch him,
and when he discovered my presence he smiled
amicably, and said something to my attendants
al)out wishing to oflFer me some of the fruit. He
really did climb down, and came to me with a
bunch of remarkably good dates, which I accepted
and sent to my quarters.

When we had passed the village we entered the
palm grove. From every side people were stream-
ing in ; men, veiled women, young girls, and chil-
<lrei), all to see the bride taken to the l)ri<legrofmi\s

dwelling.

The whole scene closely resembled what 1 wit-
nessed a couple of days later, under better circum-
stances, in Hadeij. I will therefore restrict myself
to mentioning that we saw her arrive in a closely

138 CAVE DWELLERS

shut litter, borne on a camel, accompanied by some
female relatives and a man who led the camel.
Negro musicians headed the procession, which halted
in an open space.

Then began a " fantasia " of horsemen, who
galloped past us firing their muskets. They were
richly dressed, and the horses* quarters were decked
with brilliant silken coverings. But there were
not many riders, neither did the " fantasia " last
long. This, I was told, was because there was
mourning in the oasis on account of the many
deaths.

After the "fantasia" the bride was conducted
into the town, through narrow lanes where the
palanquin scraped between the walls of the houses,
and down into a vard. Here the camel was made
to kneel, and the girl, still closely veiled, was led
into the dwelling of the man, who perhaps saw
her that evening for the first time in hLs life.

Passing by the entrance of a small mosque I
peeped in. It was cool and shady in the little
room, the roof of which was supported on pillared
arches. On the floor were rush mats, and in a
corner were raised a few steps, whence the " Imam "
speaks to the faithful. This stair was simply made
of unpainted wood, not even ornamented with
carving, as is generally the case.

Towards evening we visited another village.

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 139

rather more to the north. It was surrounded by
palms, amidst which stood a little minaret attached
to a mosque close to the market-place.

Between this and the village first mentioned
there is an open piece of land, formerly occupied
by a town, but now only encumbered with build-
ing materials.

In the vicinity, near some hot springs, are also
the ruins of an old Turkish fort, now so insecure
that no one ventures to live beneath its crumbling
walls. It is said that the inhabitants had, as a
matter of course, plundered the building of all its
timbers and woodwork, and that consequently the
walls hardly held together. Rusting amongst the
fallen masonry lay a couple of cannon of ante-
diluvian construction. The fort was evidently
built to protect the springs, the water of which
is warm, the highest temperature being about
113° Fahrenheit. The natives fetch the warm
water in pitchers from the basin of the springs,
and set it to cool for drinking purposes.

From the days of the Romans these springs
have been known and esteemed as having great
healing powers, and as such have l)een resorted
to from most ancient times.

When we arrived in the neighbourhood of the
village, we were greeted by the same cries of
lamentation that we had heard the previous day

I40 CAVE DWELLERS

in the cemetery, and were told that the women
were mourning over a bride, married only four
weeks ago, who had just died of the fever. It
seemed as though sorrow had overwhelmed the
oasis, for wails rose on every side amidst the palm
groves.

It was evening, and nearly dark, as we strolled
back to the Khalifa's abode, where we found the
meal ready. When I began to eat I could not
find my knife, which I remembered having used
at breakfast. I searched everywhere, but in vain ;
Hamed examined the saddle-bags, and then dis-
covered that some pomegranates he had gathered
in his garden and given to me were missing, and
besides these, from a parcel of cigarettes two
packets were gone. Thieves had evidently been
at work.

We held a consultation as to what was to be
done, and I decided to mention the theft to Ali,
one of the sons. At the same time I wished to
avoid telling the Khalifa of it, as I tliought it
miglit distress him to learn that his guest had
been robl)e(l. But I could not be entirely silent
on the subject ; amongst the Arabs a man must
uphold his rights if he wishes to l)e respected.

As soon as Ali heard of the theft, he went
straight to the guard at the gate, and asked him
who had been up to the*, guest-room.

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 141

One person, it appeared, had carried a bunch of
dates there at my request. This had been one of
the Khalifa's own men, so the guard had not thought
it necessary to prevent his going up.

Ali had, however, caught this same fellow some
time ago stealing gunpowder, so he readily suspected
him and hurried off to the man's dwelling, which was
near at hand. Here he advised him to confess and
at once restore the stolen property, and thus escape
punishment.

This the fellow would not do, so Ali, assisted by
others, searched the house, finding the knife and a
packet of cigarettes. In the few hours that had
elapsed since his theft, the ruffian had treated him-
self to five-and-twenty first-rate cigarettes and the
pomegranates. The culprit was very soon thrown
into prison, and there he remained when I left
El Hamma on the following day. Whether or not
he was set free after my departure, and whether
the Khalifa ever learnt the stoi*y of the theft, I
am ignorant.

It was late in the evening, near ten o'clock, and
I was about to retire to rest, when Ali noticed that
I had caught a slight cold. He insisted that I
should at once go down to the wonderful healing
waters of the warm spring, declaring that in a
quarter of an hour I should be perfectly well.

It was pitch dark when Hamed, Ali, and I, carry-

142 CAVE DWELLERS

ing lanterns, strolled through the village to the
spring near the ruined old " Borj." We descended
a stone stair which ended in a dark, paved lower
room, from the opening into which steam issued
into the cold outer air. By the light of the lantern
I saw that the water rose within the room, through
which it flowed, and was discharged through a small
opening into a basin outside.

In the centre of the room stood a clumsy pillar
supporting the roof, and surrounding the fountains
were tanks built of stone. Within one of these lay
the black figure of a negro. We requested him to
move. This he was quite willing to do, but it took
him a long time ; and we had to assist him, for he
could scarcely walk, his legs being crippled with
rheumatism. When we had taken him up to a
chamber near the stone steps, and after letting
the water run out for a little while, we un-
dressed.

The room was full of choking hot steam, as in
a Roman or Moorish bath ; I l)egan to perspire
before I got into the water. Counting one, two,
three, I scrambled in. Over my whole body I
felt an icy sensation, just as though I had plunged
into cold water, but immediately after followed a
feeling as of being scalded, and I sprang back on
to the stone verge. Twice I repeated my endeavours
to bear the burning heat of the water, but each time

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 143

had to jump out quickly ; so I remained seated on
the stones, throwing the water over my body, and
even that I could hardly bear. The whole time
I felt as though everything inside me were being
boiled, and 1 perspired frightfully.

With Hamed it was the same, but he was able
to remain longer in the water. But Ali astonished
us by quietly enjoying himself sitting in the
water, the temperature of which was at least
113° Fahrenheit.

After half an hour of this we dressed hastily,
and went to the upper room that was thick with
rising steam, but not nearly so hot as the lower
one. Here, on the stone flooring, we sat closely
wrapped in our burnouses, the hoods well drawn
over our faces, to refresh ourselves by perspiration.
Twice when I drew my hood aside, a clammy, cold,
raw air seemed to strike my face. The lantern had
been placed on the stone floor, and by its light,
before I hurriedly covered my face again, I caught
sight of four other figures lying huddled in their
white burnouses.

Thus we sat for another half-hour chatting
amongst ourselves, and to the negro. The other
three men appeared to be sleeping. The negro
told us that on a little donkey, his sole possession,
he had ridden a great distance from beyond the
island of Jerba, to be cured by this far-famed

144 CAVE DWELLERS

spring. When he arrived about a fortnight ago
he could not stand at all, but Allah had already
assisted him, and now he was so much better that
he could hobble about a little. Every day was
wholly spent l)y him in the bath, or in this upper
room. Ilis food was dates and bread given him
by charitable folk, as he, poor fellow, possessed
nothing.

I gave him a couple of francs, with the wish
that Allah would continue to help him so that he
might entirely recover. Throwing himself on his
side he sought my hand, and, not finding it, kissed
my l)urnous, murmuring his thanks and praying
that Allah would protect me on my journey ; and,
as long as T was within hearing, continued to repeat
his good wishes.

We stepped out into the dark, and returned
home nearly at a run, so as to avoid catching
cold. Througli the lanes we sped rapidly, the
light dancing in Hamed's hand, and beside and
after us the deep black shadows of our ghostly
figures leapt along the walls, startling a little boy
who met us, and who darted like a flash of
lightning into a narrow side alley.

When I reached my room and stretched myself
on my couch, I was conscious of an indescribable
feeling of well-being. I felt quite refreslied, and
all symptoms of indisposition had completely passed

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 145

away ; so I fell asleep, having had ample proof of
the healing properties of the holy underground
spring.

My friend, the old soldier, had said during the
day that in the neighbouring mountain wild boar
were always to be found in numbers, and that at
the moment they were also lying near the river
of El Hamma, about a mile away and close to the
shott, for it had been a very dry season, and the
boar had moved to the oasis in search of water,
and taken shelter in the thickets and brushwood.

I had therefore agreed with the Khalifa's sons
that the next morning at sunrise we would ride
out and try for a shot at the boar, which at that
hour came down to drink at the water pools.

I was pleased at the prospect of this hunt, and
intended to try on the occasion an old flint lock
given me by one of the Khalifa's sons.

Early next morning, before it was light, Ilamed
woke me, saying, " There will not be many men
to hunt with you to-day. All the people have to
go to the distant plains, some have already started,
and others are preparing to depart ; for in the
night an express courier arrived to report that
rain had fallen in the west."

I at once told Hamed to say to the Khalifa
that I gave up all intention of hunting, as I
would not hinder his men from going to their work.

ID

146 CAVE DWELLERS

I said this knowing that it was a year and a
day since rain had fallen, and that the prospects
of the barley crop began to look serious ; for it
is only when the soil is wet that the com will
sprout ; and Allah having had compassion on the
people and sent rain, the men should start at
once to plough the bare earth and sow the grain.

The rule is that the first arrivals at their
destination have the choice of the best land, for,
although each tribe possesses large tracts of the
plains which, according to ancient custom, belong
to them, the ground is common property, and
the first-comer can take what he will and as much
as he can manage to cultivate.

There was joy that morning in the oasis. Over
two thousand men and women departed hastily
in small caravans — some going far away to the
country south of the western shott, others to the
nearer lying plains. Only those who possessed
neither camels nor horses remained, with the old
men and some w^omen and children.

Whilst dressing I heard the Arabs quarrelling
below my window, just as they had done the
previous day, and as, probably, they do every day
since the Khalifa first held his court of justice
in this place.

From the doorway at the top of the stone
steps T inhaled the fresh morning air in full

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 147

draughts. Across the yard, where the horses were
eating their fodder, I looked over the flat grey-
roofs to the palm groves. From some of the
dwellings smoke was rising, and the murmur of
many voices reached me.

The sun had just risen, and shone on the distant
mountain tops, as I passed through the yard and
the long dark gateway into the verandah. There,
on his stone bench, was seated the Khalifa, calm,
mild, and amiable. My eyes wandered amongst
the rows of pillars and over the mob that sur-
rounded him in the courtyard ; a quarrelling,
gesticulating, noisy crowd. He rose and, laying
his hand on his breast, saluted me by bending
his head. I did the same, and then we passed
on together through the square between his house
and the cemetery. His sons, assisted by the farm
men and women, were there directing the departure
of the last caravan.

From an open doorway in the long white wall
came old women dragging heavy corn sacks, and
men with wooden ploughs and rope harness. Other
women brought water in great bullock skins, and
all was bound securely on grumbling camels,
amidst much loud shouting and talking ; while,
leaning against the wall and holding each other s
hands, stood a row of half-naked children.

The Berber women are of fair complexion.

148 CAVE DWELLERS

and wear the usual blue garb wrapped round the
body, and fastened on the shoulders with silver
pins, leaving their sides and throat visible. On
their bare arms and legs they wear rings of silver,
lead, or bone, and their nails are stained with
henna. Many of them have good features and black
eyes, and their movements are pretty and graceful.

There are other women, however, as smartly
dressed, but whose dark colouring, coarse features,
and ugly mouths bear witness to their foreign
extraction. In these there is negro blood.

Later I expressed my astonishment at finding
so many of the latter here. "They are more pro-
lific than the other women," said Hamed, "there-
fore many men take them as handmaidens to
have the more children, for children signify riches."

They are descendants of slaves brought by
caravan from the Sahara vid Ehadam(5s. Officially
there are now no more slaves ; but, in fact, over
the whole of Southern Tunisia, one finds numbers
of negroes who are more or less closely bound to
the households of the great proprietors. They are
well treated, and therefore remain in their masters'
houses, even though the French have declared that
slavery has ceased to exist.

The costume worn by the negresses is the
same as that of the Berber women, but their
black wool is plaited in thick locks, that fall

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 149

over their foreheads, whereas the Berber women's
hair is either hidden by a handkerchief or hangs
loose like the front hair of our own women.

Gradually, as the camels were laden, they
formed into groups, and then began the exodus.
The men and most of the women were on foot,
the former with muskets on their shoulders or
knotted sticks in their hands. A few riders led
the way on horseback.

Their path wound across the cemetery, amongst
the graves, and out into the grey or ochre-yellow
plains, where group after group disappeared.

Other caravans, small and large, came from
the town or the palm groves, some of them tra-
versing the road and travelling in another direc-
tion. We saw the crowd gradually fall into lines,
and, winding over the plain towards various
points, vanish out of sight.

The Khalifa returned to his seat in the shade,
with the shouting mob about him, whilst the flies
buzzed in the hot air.

On the plain the sand seemed to burn ; the
mountains quivered on the horizon, and the shott
lay like a heated furnace far away to the north.

With my guide I went for a stroll through
the oasis : first to the Jewish quarter, where I
bought an article of dress, and then to the gold-
smiths, who, in my presence, made anklets, ear-

ISO CAVE DWELLERS

rings, and bracelets of silver. Then we visited
the blacks, who fashion large and small cooking
utensils of clay without the aid of a potters
wheel. Next, a Jewish shop, where we secretly
purchased a couple of bottles of palm wine. A
visit to the cotfee-house — the only one I saw —
followed, where, amongst myriads of flies, we drank
scalding hot coflfee. On, again, to a man in the
market - place, who made the loveliest fans of
plaited palm leaves ; and lastly to the basket -
makers shop, and to a weaver in his room.

Everywhere we were followed by an inquisitive
crowd, who watched the interesting bargains.

When we returned wc found the lieutenant
and interpreter from the *' Bureau de Renseigne-
ments" in Gabes had arrived, riding with their
Spahis, to hold a court of inquiry. They had
taken up their quarters in the guest-room, where
they sat awaiting my return, and invited me to
join them at their meal.

This Bureau corresponds to the ** Bureau Arabe "
of Algeria ; but whereas the latter has the right of
judging the natives, the former has no such right.
They have but one means of control, but through
this they, in point of fact, distribute justice almost
equally well.

The officers, at the conclusion of the midday
meal, would have to hold a court during all the

.^tK.-

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA 151

rest of the day, as they were obliged to return
home the following morning. After a cheerful
repast, I started on horseback at about two o'clock,
intending to spend the night on the plain, near
a well. The Khalifa, who naturally had few
people at home, excused himself from sending a
guide with me, but the officers declared that alone
we should be unable to find our way to Hadeij
on the following day. They represented this to
the Khalifa, saying lie must find a guide, and I
heard a loud discussion on the subject, and caught
an expression in the usually mild eyes of the
Khalifa, which I had never seen before.

In Gabes I learnt later that the Khalifix had
in his youth been the finest horseman, the boldest
soldier, but also the most notorious horse-stealer
imaginable. With his weapons in his hand he
went off, far away to strange and unfriendly tribes,
to rob and plunder. In ftict, his forays sometimes
extended as far as the regions about Tunis. That
these encounters did not always take place with-
out a fight, may be realised when one learns that
the Khalifa boasts of having had sixteen horses
shot under him.

The officers having promised to send a guide
after us to the well, we said adieu and rode off.
The mild Khalifa's sly glance rested on me as I
shook him by the hand on taking leave.

CHAPTER IX

Over Aglat Merteba to the Matmata Mountains

Over a slightly undulating plain with mountains
on either side, we rode for some distance in the
intense heat. On the way we met a Spahi from
the Bureau at Gabes, followed by a boy. Hamed
was pleased to see a comrade, and lingered to
talk to him. It appeared that the Spahi should
by rights have been at his post near Aglat Merteba,
where we were to stay the night, but our friend
the Khalifa of El Ilamma had sent him no pro-
visions for three days, and, driven by hunger, he
had been compelled at last to desert his post to
seek food. He was then on his way to El Hamma
to meet his officers, who, he knew, were to be there.
On account of the cholera, which, though
then decreasing, had recently raged in the south,
especially in the oasis near the shott, in Nafta,
and in the yet more northerly Gofsa, a cordon
of Spaliis had been established to prevent com-
munication between not only the infected and
the healthy regions of Tunisia itself, but also with
the frontier of Tripoli. Meanwhile cholera broke
out amongst the Spahis, who were then mostly

152

AGLAT MERTEBA TO M ATM ATA MOUNTAINS 153

recalled ; but on the particularly menacing roads
to the oases on the coast, some posts had been left,
especially near the wells, to prevent wayfarers from
the stricken districts from penetrating farther.

The plain extended on every side. The moun-
tain to our left rose higher, that to the right
retreated in a westerly direction. But far away
to the south we could perceive the blue outlines
of the Matmata mountains. We passed a dead
camel, picked clean by the jackals, and paced
quickly along the track, over stony ground, or
on the dry golden-brown plain, where there was
no vegetation wortliy the name.

It was just sunset when we saw before us, in
a hollow by a river bed, two small dark peaks.
These were empty tents belonging to the Khalifa,
and under which the Spahis and herdsmen had
lately been encamped.

Now there was not a living soul to be seen.
The tattered canvas of the empty tents was
supported by weak poles and pegs. Broken pot-
tery, esparto straw, and refuse were scattered
untidily about. We drew water out of the paved
well in the only water-skin we had. From this
both ourselves and our horses drank, for there was
no water-trough, and we had brought neither bottles
nor pitchers, expecting to find the camp occupied.

A small caravan of some half-score camels came

154 CAVE DWELLERS

by, travelling northwards. The drivers fetched a little
water, whilst their beasts continued on their way.

We secured our horses to pegs, each by the
off foreleg, and gave them a little alfa straw, as
there was no barley, and it would be late ere the
guide, who was to bring some, could arrive. Then
we spread our rugs in the open air between the
tents, and prepared to enjoy our evening meal
of dried meat and bread. After it was over I
lit a cigarette, and lay down, whilst Hamed slum-
bered. The moon was rising, and I listened to
the horses grazing and a cricket chirping. Thus
a long time passed. Once a bird flew over the
hollow, otherwise no sound broke the stillness of
the night. It turned very cold, so I put on,
besides my burnous, the haik I brought as a
gift to the bridegroom, and, wrapping myself up,
lay down in one of the tents, which, though open
at tlie side, protected me from the rays of the
moon, for, in the south, sleeping in the moonlight
causes illness — so say the Arabs at least.

I had dozed an hour, when I was roused by
the neighing of our horses. I looked out, but
there was nothing to be seen. Hamed also rose,
but could not discover anything. So we lay down
again, using our saddles as pillows, but soon heard
footsteps, and a voice speaking. It was the guide,
who had trudged all the way, carrying a little

AGLAT MERTEBA TO MATMATA MOUNTAINS 155

barley for our horses. When we had fed them
we gave the guide some bread, as he liad only-
dates with him, and then tried to sleep again.
We were disturbed once more by the Spahi re-
turning from El Hamma. From him I learnt that
he had complained to the officers, who had repri-
manded the Khalifa — the mild, amiable Khalifa.

Before daybreak Hamed and I were in our
saddles, and pacing along in the wake of our
guide, who, closely wrapped in his burnous, led
the way with long strides.

At dawn we passed a mound that was com-
pletely covered with stones, and somewhat later
we came upon other knolls, shaped like tumuli,
and also covered with stones.

"Those," said Hamed, "are ruins from the
time of the Romans."

On the plains we saw herdsmen driving their
cattle. In one spot, lines in the form of a large
square had been scratched with a stick on the
hard surface of the earth. These are drawn by
the herdsmen about their cattle, when they col-
lect them for the night, that jackals or other
wild animals may not venture to attack them —
at least, this was Hamed's explanation.

As the distance from the mountains to the south
and south-east decreased, we passed various tracks
leading to several dry torrent beds ; these were the

'ff'.-.t V >^ -. '^' , < ..J^^ ^-^^ ^^;^ j^

156 CAVE DWELLERS

paths from Gab^s to the mountains. Fnr away to
the south appeared a faint blue line at tlie base of

which I knew were the villages of Tujud, Zaraun,
and Tamczred.

At seven o'clock it began to grow hot. Our
guide threw his burnous over his shoulder, and.

AGLAT MERTEBA TO MATMATA MOUNTAINS 157

placing his staflF at the back of his neck, grasped
the two ends with outstretched arms. Thus he
stepped briskly forward over the uneven stony
ground, or on the flat hard clay surface, that was
riddled with holes by the jerboas.

In the quivering sunshine we saw herds of sheep
and goats grazing in charge of a guardian.

After again crossing a couple of dry water-
courses we reached once more the vicinity of the
mountains. Before us lay a valley, in the distance
were palms and olives, and far away at the highest
part of the valley a single upright palm. This the
guide indicated, saying it was our destination ; as
Hadeij, the end of our journey, and where we were
expected for the wedding feast, was not far thence.

I now dismissed the guide, who said he would
return in a direct line across country to El Hamma.
His white figure was soon left far behind us, as we
rode down the valley with the mountains on cither
side. To our right I was told there was a little cave
village. I did not distinguish it, but we passed the
palm and olive trees belonging to the inhabitants.

On the slope of the hill farther on, still to our right,
lay the village of Judlig — that of many women.

At last we came to a torrent racing into a broad
valley, and knew that we were nearing Hadeij. The
bottom of the valley was uneven and furrowed, and
scattered with palms with fan-shaped crowns.

CHAPTER X

Bridal Festivities in Hadeij

Down the mountains and over the hills and valleys
flocked the people in numbers. Amongst them were
a few riders carrying guns and making their horses
curvet along the path, marked by a dust cloud.
Burnous-clad men straggled along in small or large
parties, which showed at first as mere white patches
on the mountain side, but grew larger and more
distinct as they drew near. Women in bright
clothing and mounted on donkeys came from
their villages, accompanied by their husbands
and children ; other women were afoot, wrapped
in red, yellow, or blue draperies ; the midday
sun lighting up the trinkets on their arms and
ankles.

All these groups made for the cave in the valley
— the Khalifa s village. A couple of his men came
riding to receive me ; they closed up the troop with
Hamed, and other guests overtaking us swelled our
train, so that almost unconsciously I found myself
at the head of quite a little cavalcade ; the horses
snorted as their hoofs beat the ground and raised

158

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 159

the whirling dust, and the clink of spurs and the
sound of voices reached my ear.

There was an air of festivity about the riders
behind me, as, with the hoods of their fluttering
burnouses flung back, they hurried along to the
feast, passing the parties on foot, who drew aside as
the horsemen trotted merrily past, their restive
steeds curveting and snorting as they emerged from
the shade of the palms into the sunshine.

When the dust-clouds had subsided, we halted
under some olive trees, where the Khalifa sat sur-
rounded by male friends and neighbours. Here I
dismounted, and saluting first amiable old Sid
Fatush, who received me most cordially, I then
shook other outstretched hands and received their
welcome.

On the open square which I knew so well, were
raised camel's-hair tents for the reception of the
numerous guests. Outside these the horses and
mules were tethered. No women were visible ; they
remained in the caves, but hundreds of men moved
about, or sat in groups with upraised guns, whilst a
swarm of romping boys clustered around them.

Guests were continually arriving ; they kissed the
Khalifa s hand, and greeted one another. Many of
these dark-eyed, fine-featured men were known to
me, and I heard incessantly the salutation of
" Salam," to which the reply is **Salam alikum."

i6o CAVE DWELLERS

I felt secure and proud of my position as a friend of
these mountaineers, and of knowing that, though the
only Christian here amongst the "faithful," I was
safe, thanks to the Khalifa's influence and protection.

Most of the men were clothed in the ordinary
white burnous, or the brown toga-like haik, draped
about them in picturesque . folds ; but others, espe-
cially the riders and those who intended performing
the " powder - play " on foot, had discarded these
garments and assumed silken costumes of golden,
green, or blue embroidered gala burnouses with wide
sleeves. A very few wore the ordinary burnous or
the haik over their silk attire.

My good friend Belkassim was the only person
present, as far as I could see, in old, worn, or ragged
clothes ; his upper garment resembled a frock coat.
But he had to supervise the horses and mules of the
guests, and I saw him hard at work, dragging them
about, scolding and dealing blows right and left in
his efforts to make room for the numerous animals.

His duties were evidently those of a marshal, and
he did not spare the stick with which he made play
at times amongst the idle lads who were heedless of
his directions. Though very busy, he found time
to give me a look and a warm greeting.

The bridegroom, Mohammed, was not visible,
neither was he mentioned. According to custom, he
kept himself concealed with his closest friends.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ i6i

Mansur was not at home, having gone to fetch
the bride ; so Amor was the only one of the Khalifa's
sons who bade me welcome.

I was shown to my quarters in the guest-cave,
and our horses were stabled in the cave passage, as
on my first visit. A first-rate gala dinner refreshed
me ; the table being laden with dishes and bowls of
wxll- cooked food, which I relished with the good
appetite of a hungry man. The Khalifa himself
came to look after me during my meal, followed by
an inquisitive mob who crouched round the cave,
darkening the entrance.

The onlookers remained silent while the meal
lasted, and when it was over were hustled out, and
I ordered Hamed to post himself at the door and
forbid ingress to each and all, as I desired to change
my dress and attire myself in my festal costume — a
white linen suit.

When this was done, Hamed entered, leading by
the hand a sprightly eleven - year - old lad, who
addressed me in pure French, and was introduced
by Hamed as his little brother Ali, who was invited
to the festival, and had arrived with his mother
and sister from Gab(5s» having ridden thence on a
donkey.

Ali attended a French school at Gab^s, and, being

a bright intelligent lad, had soon learnt to talk

fluent French. He told me that the Khalifa had
II

i62 CAVE DWELLERS

said he might Qome and ask if I would employ him
as interpreter.

I was much pleased with this acquisition, and
during the hour which remained before the bride's
arrival, and the consequent commencement of
festivities, occupied myself, with little Ali's help,
in gathering information on the subject of the
wedding customs in the Matmata mountains, which
enabled me to more fully understand what I wit-
nessed later in the day, and thus add to the know-
ledge I had already acquired from both Mansur and
Amor, and from several others of the better class of
mountaineers.

And here I will diverge a little to describe the
ceremonies that had preceded this last great function ;
and, in the meantime, my readers may picture to
themselves tlie crowd eagerly scanning the moun-
tains to espy the expected little caravan led by
Mansur, who was to bring home the bride ; the
guests steadily increasing in numbers, and the bride-
groom in his hiding-place, listening to the sounds of
rejoicing, and perhaps dreaming of his bride-elect ;
whilst muskets were being loaded, locks examined,
horses saddled, women adorned, and the bridal
chamber made ready.

On his son Mohammed's behalf, the old Khalifa
discussed the necessary arrangements with the bride's
father, who is one of the tribe of Uled Sliman. The

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 163

marriage is then concluded, but by merely a civil
contract. Before the bridegroom can be left in
peace with his second wife, there must be much feu
de joie, many songs sung, quantities of kus-kus
eaten, and many preparations made in both the
bride's and the bridegroom's homes. In the latter
especially, where festivities must be kept up for
eight days, men and women vie with each other in
making ready for great rejoicings.

It was, as my readers may remember, eight
days earlier, on the 17 th October, that I had wit-
nessed the festival of the opening day. At first the
women had been mainly occupied in collecting wheat
and barley to be ground in their small stone hand-
mills, many people being expected ; so there was
much work that had to be done, but joy and
festivity would reign in Hadeij, so the village women
met in the evenings and tried to surpass each other
in improvising songs.

Whilst the chorus and joyful " Yu, yu " re-echoed
in the still evenings, the men, as we have seen, sat
in groups listening to the songs of the women,
the negro comic singers, and the noisy drums and
clarionets. Now and again there would be the
flash of powder and report following report, all
tokens of universal rejoicing.

The two first fete days are called *' Faraja." The
third, " El Henna," is so named after the plant, the

i64 CAVE DWELLERS

leaves of which stain red the nails on the hands and
feet of the women. A young bride must never be
without this beautifying preparation in her new
home, and every day she must adorn herself to
please and attract her husl)and.

On the fourth day, "Nugera," the women again
assemble and work and sing, busying themselves
with preparations for the festival.

At last on the fifth day, " Mahal," the rejoicings
begin. The tribesmen and women arrive to devour
enormous quantities of various kinds of food, in
addition to tlieir well-loved *' kus-kus." The negroes
dance, sing, and earn much money, as they are
never overlooked l)y either host or guests.

Tlie next morning, that is, of the sixth day,
called *' FoUag," the men begin by again revelling
in ''kus-kus" and meat dishes; they require to be
well fed and strengthened, for in the evening after
sunset they must sally out to collect wood for fuel.
They return in the early morning, and then the
women's turn comes, when they will make their
last and greatest effort to render the bridal banquet
worthy of the occasion, and to do credit to them-
selves and to the Khalifa. Many oxen and some
score of sheep are slaughtered, for no festive
occasion passes without every man gorging until he
is almost unfit to move.

The seventh day, " El Kesuar," is appointed for

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 165

the presentation to the bride of her dresses and
ornaments. In this case this honoural)le commission
was entrusted to Amor, the Khalifa s second son.

Soon after midday he swung himself into his
saddle and led the way, followed by some ten horse-
men and a number of men on foot. The latter led
mules laden with the bridal gifts. On the way the
riders galloped in wildest '* fantasia," riding gallantly
as they proceeded towards the bride's home on the
other side of the mountains, whilst muskets were
discharged, and the smoke of the gunpowder rose
amongst the hills. The negro musicians, who accom-
panied them, played on their flutes and beat their
drums to warn the Uled Sliman of the approach of
the people from Hadeij.

These are expected, and a festal welcome pre-
pared in the village ; for there also, during many
days, great preparations have been made, the tribe
being proud that little Mena should go to Hadeij as
bride to the Khalifa's son.

What a crowd there was the other evening,
when, after sunset, she stepped from the cave into
the open court, shy and timid, to allow herself to be
seen by the men of her homestead, who had gathered
on the top of the bank, whence they could see down
into the deep courtyard to where the light flickered
from the candle she carried, and where her shadow
wavered on the perpendicular walls. For the last

i66 CAVE DWELLERS

time they looked ou her maiden form and beautiful
features, and could not but acknowledge that little
Mena was a fitting bride for Mohammed, son of the
Khalifa of Hadeij.

The previous day the village women of the Uled
Sliman sang the live-long day — morning, noon, and
night their joyful songs arose from the caves.

There was no more work to be done. Enough
food was provided for their own tribesmen, and
for the strangers who were to come and fetch the
bride.

After Amor and his men have done honour to
the Uled Sliman by the "fantasia" on horseback,
they are led into a cave, the residence of the bride's
father. Here they hand over the lovely clothes, and
are regaled with roast and stewed meats.

Before leaving, they pass into another room,
where the women have ranged themselves along the
walls, each seated on her own " senduk " (chest).
On the head of every woman they place pieces of
money, intended for the negress w^ho will adorn the
bride, for she must have encouragement and be paid
in ringing coin to embellish the bride, that she may
prove attractive in the eyes of her future husband.

Not until after sunset does Amor return to
Hadeij, where again the musket shots re-echo and
the negroes dance and play, richly rewarded by tlie
spectators.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 167

In the village of Uled Sliman there is also
feasting : the last great festival before the little girl
loaves her home for ever, for next day she must bid
farewell to all those who have been so good to her,
to become the wife of a stranger, a man with whom
she may be scarcely acquainted, except by name.
But she probably dreams of her coming prosperity,
and of him who will shortly be her husband and
master. Lucky for her if she does not dwell on the
thought that perhaps in seven, eight, or even fewer,
years, — when she is faded, old, and ugly, — she may
become a beast of burden, and make way for another
and more youthful woman, whom she may gratefully
welcome as a help in her work.

But we will not overshadow a happy hour with
such forebodings. Sorrow may come early, but,
possibly, never !

At dawn of the final day, called " Sjiffa " (a
canopy), all were early afoot in Hadeij. During the
previous evening, and late into the night, guests
kept arriving from distant regions, and more would
arrive that da5\ People had been invited from all
the villages in the Matmata mountains — first and
foremost, those of Uled Sliman, but also from
Ras-el Ned, Beni Sultan, Tujan, Smerten, Beni
Aissa. Many hundreds would assemble, and, with
the men, women, and children of Hadeij, between
one and two thousand would be present.

i68 CAVE DWELLERS

In the Khalifa s house, in all the caves, and in
the tents, the guests were fed in the early morning.
Belkassim had his hands full, taking care that
everyone had his appointed place.

The meal soon being finished, the people flocked
to watcli Mansur start with the canopy (Sjiffa)
perched on the bridal camel. He rode a donkey,
and was accompanied by both horsemen and men on
foot, the latter firing ofli* muskets and performing the
most graceful and joyous " fantasia," whilst the
negroes played gaily on flutes and tambourines as
they disappeared amongst tlie mountain paths.

But we must glance at the home of the bride,
where Mansur is expected to arrive some hours later.

The fatlier of the l)ride had given a banquet to
tlie men, women, and children, and even to the
negroes, followed by much feu de joic.

Towards midday, when the bride has been
adorned, and only waits to be fetched, the men of
her tribe enter, and each lays his mite on her head.
All is for the negress who has dressed her and
striven faithfully that the* result may b(* superla-
tively impressive.

But haik ! The rrport (»f guns is heard in tin*
distance, the men from lladeij arc coming. Haste,
oh, Uled Sliman, to receive them, for the powder
speaks, the clarionets shrill, and the tom-toms boom
incessantly.

172 CAVE DWELLERS

Behind me rose a rampart of earth, banked up

about the palm trees ; it was tightly packed with
rows of men ; and above this white crowd the palms

towered into the air. Farther off the crowns of

other palms and olives were visible, scattered here

and there over the valley of which the horizon is

bounded by blue mountains. Clinging to the tops

of the neighbouring palm trees I saw boys, who had

climbed there for a better view.

Behind the men stood groups of women ; amongst
the former were the negro musicians, and beside
these were men in silken apparel and carrying
muskets, in readiness to perform the gun dance (or
powder-phiy).

Far to the left, on an open space between two
roads, were gathered a numl)er of horsemen, clothe<l
in flowing garments and with their silver-inlaid guns
held pointing upwards, prepared to spring forward
at a given moment and pass us at flying speed.

To the right, the ground rose in a gentle incline
to the caves in the bank.

It was liot at tlie mi(hlav hour, and the sun
l)urnt scorchingly in tlie valley, but the attention of
all was strained watching for the long-expected
procession, so no one noticed the heat.

The flutes, clarionets, and drums l)egan to play.
The boys started running across the open space,
followed and driven back by Belkassim and his

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 173

assistants, and roundly abused even by the Khalifa
himself ; for the space had to be kept clear for the
horses to gallop over.

Suddenly the sound of gun-shots was heard
coming from the opposite groups. The smoke rose
amongst the palm leaves, and then I saw men
beautifully dressed and wearing red caps and full
white trousers, performing the gun dance, either
two or four at a time.

Two men sprang forward from the group. The

first rested his cheek on his gun, aimed at his

companion, and danced round in a circle with little

tripping steps, still steadily sighting the other, who,

opposite to him, danced in the same circle, the butt

end of his gun held in a similar position. Thus

they tripped from side to side, keeping with their

guns a steady aim at each other. Then, suddenly,

a report sounded from the tw^o guns simultaneously.

The dancers then sprang round to the staccato and

nasal notes of the clarionets, now playing in quicker

time. One of the men threw his musket up in the

air to catch it again as it fell, the other whirled his

whizzing round in his hand. So they danced for a

while, and then dropped into slower measure, aiming

at each other as at first, and ending by abruptly

vanishing amongst the crowd to reload their guns,

whilst others danced forward and the firing w^as

repeated.

174 CAVE DWELLERS

Two and two, aiming at each other, four men
danced in a circle ; as they tripped from one side to
the other, reports re-echoed and guns whirled in the
air. The sun gleamed on silver-inlaid weapons, on
the dust, the dazzling white burnouses of the men,
on the women, the palms and the olive trees, whilst
the musics monotonous nasal clamour resounded
hideously.

Then the riders to the left stirred into activitv.
Two men started their horses at a gallop, forcing
them along at furious speed. Like lightning they
approached, the riders leaning towards each other
so that their heads pressed cheek to cheek. Their
caps seemed one red spot, their two faces were not
distinguishable the one from the other. The rider
on the right held his gun in his right hand, the other
in his left, and as they galloped they swung them to
and fro and up and down in the air. When they
were quite in front of us, just outside the group of
dancers, one of them fired his gun into the ground
and the other into the air, then they parted, gallop-
ing quickly back to join their ranks.

Other horsemen followed in the same fashion.

In El Hamma I had noticed some riders whose
horses had silken coverings flowing over their
quarters, but here I saw none.

Some thirty horsemen came forward in turn to
take part in the powder-play. The dancing group

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 175

did not cease firing when the riders passed ; the
flutes and clarionets wildly intermingled their din —
it was deafening. But the riders' prowess was a
beautiful sight. Some of them had no guns and
only galloped past ; one carried, hanging by his
saddle, a splendid long silver-mounted sword, re-
sembling our own old Viking swords. This I was to
see used later, during the bridal ceremony.

After some time passed in this way, I heard the
sound of other flutes and drums. The dancers and
riders redoubled their exertions, for at last the bridal
procession was on the point of arriving.

Mansur on his mule came riding into the square,
and was nearly trampled on by the " fantasia " riders.

After him followed the camel with the canopy.
It was led forward by men on foot, others supporting
the palanquin on either side as it swayed backwards
and forwards.

Behind the camel came some women, and the
procession was closed by a mule laden with dresses
and gifts.

Just as the camel was about to halt beneath the
shade of the palm trees in front of me, two horsemen
came tearing up. They fired their guns quite close
to the canopy. Their horses reared, and I saw their
forelegs right up in the air as the guns whirled over
the men's heads.

•At short intervals other riders, followed, some

176

CAVE DWELLERS

singly, others in couples, or evi'n three riding side
In the last case, the two outside ridci-s
leant towartls the ccntrnl figure. All
,- tired ofi" tlieirguns close tu the palaii-
qiiiu, where the bride sat enseonced.
She must hiive been uuconsoioua of
save tile fieiidit^h noise made in

her honour, and the unpleasant locking motion
pro«.luee<l by a camel's aetion.

The horsemcu returned to their starting-point

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 177

after each gallop. The red and gold canopied
palanquin with its pointed top was now just in
front of me. The music continued, and the clatter
of the horses' hoofs, and of shots fired into the
ground ; whilst the spectators in their white
burnouses stood almost motionless, enjoying the
beautiful sight. The sun shone brightly, and many
drew their hoods over their heads to protect
themselves from its rays, and the hoi'ses were white
with foam from excitement and heat.

Behind a couple of the horsemen, a stark-naked
negro lad, bestriding a little jennet, came galloping
up. He waved his arms and gesticulated wildly with
a stick, using it as a gun. Alas ! the mule stopped
suddenly, sticking his forefeet into the ground. The
negro lad, with an indescribable grimace, threw his
arms about its neck. The mule reared with a bound ;
the lad clung fast and anxiously to its neck as he
still hung on, but was fated to fall, for the mule
finally plunged to one side, pitching the naked boy
on to the sand. For the first time I saw the spec-
tators smile, some even laughed aloud. The mule
trotted oflF towards the hills, followed by the shout-
ing lad, whose unclothed form was covered with

dust.

Such clowns often appear on the scene during u

festival ; the part always being played by a negro.

The black boy must soon have caught his mule,
12

178 CAVE DWELLERS

for a few minutes after his first performance he
again rushed by to repeat his uncouth *' fantasia."

After the palanquin had been present at the
"powder-play" for about half an hour, it was con-
ducted towards the caves. The " fantasia " being at
an end, all the people followed the bride-; some going
before, some behind the camel, and others alongside
of it. The whole ground seemed sown with a
crop of burnouses.

The Khalifa rode up and gave directions to
Hamed and AH as to where I w^as to be placed
during the remainder of the function.

We took a short cut back to the Khalifa s house,
where I was stationed on a chair, over the entrance
gate through which the bride would pass.

From my commanding position I looked down on
the spot where the women sat and sang to me on my
first evening.

Gradually more and more men and boys arrived,
till the slopes were crowded. In front of the gate was
Belkassim, the ubiquitous Belkassim, keeping back
the boys with his marshal's stick. Amor was there
also, and a little later the Khalifa arrived on his
mule. These kept a small space clear near the gate.
I Messed together close beside it was a group of girls,
mostly half-grown ; in their light-coloured clothes
they were very eftective. They chaffed one another
as they watched for the advent of the bride. By

{From a tkttrh bu Krt\id aaiiibonj.)

• • '

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ i8i

chance one of them looked up and caught sight of me ;
in an instant she had imparted her interesting dis-
covery to the others, and many a pretty, roguish, or
inquisitive glance was cast on me. When I nodded
to them, they tittered, and the biggest girl withdrew
the kerchief from before her face.

The Khalifa on his mule had enough to do keep-
ing order. His angry voice thundered not only at
the boys, but also at the men who pushed forward to
have a look.

At length the musicians and the red-topped
palanquin came in sight. Gun-shots exploded all
around. Four negroes appeared, tripping along with
a swaying motion from their hips, and playing, two
on drums, and two on clarionets ; the music shrieking
hideously over the hill. Behind them came the
palanquin, followed by the mule with the gifts.

A short distance from the gateway they halted,
and the camel was ordered to kneel. The obstinate
beast refused ; supported by the men, the palanquin
swayed from left to right. Poor little Mena : you
were to be worried yet a little longer before you were
to be allowed to leave your cage.

At last the men succeeded in making the camel
kneel and in binding its foreleg, its complaining roar
raincrlinof with the rest of the infernal din.

The negress stood beside the palanquin, and I
saw that she conversed with the captive — perhaps

i82 CAVE DWELLERS

seeking to reassure her. She stretched her black
arm beneath the canopy to pass in a finger-ring
which Amor handed her. It was evidently a
wedding present, but whether from Amor himself or
from liis brother, the bridegroom, I was unable to
ascertain.

In the meanwhile, on the small clear space in front
of the gate, a carpet had been spread, and on it a
mattress, on which was placed a large flat pan filled
with sand.

The men busied themselves stripping the palan-
quin of its canopy of hangings and kerchiefs, and
when this was done they lifted down the closely
veiled bride and set her on the o^round. The ne^ress
took her by the hand and led her within a couple
of paces of the edge of the carpet, where they re-
mained standing. Round it some men had stationed
themselves, holding unfolded burnouses spread above
their heads, so that carpet and mattress were hidden
from view.

I could not understand what these preparations
could portend, and asked Ilamed. He explained, in
a whisper, that some small boys were to be circum-
cised, and pointed out three men each holding a
child in his arms. These children were from two to
four years old : one of them was little Ilamed, the
bridegroom's son l)y his first wife ; another. Amor's son
Mahmud ; and the third little boy was also a relative.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 183

The children wore red caps with tassels richly
adorned with gold and silver ornaments, and, so far
as I could make out, chains hung about their ears and
necks. They were dressed in coloured coats, below
which appeared white shirts and bare legs encircled
by anklets. The two elder children cried incessantly,
as if they knew what awaited them, but the youngest
smiled and looked about him.

The music in the meantime drowned the screams
of the small boys. Belkassim disappeared beneath
the coverings, and one of the small boys was carried
in. After a time he was brought out, fainting, and
was taken to the cave ; the other boys followed in the
same manner.

During this ceremony, which lasted at least
twenty minutes, the bride stood, closely veiled, by
the carpet. Extending her right hand, decked with
gold and silver rings, she took some leaves from a
basin held by a negress and strewed them over the
covering, and, whilst the music played and the drums
V>oomed, I saw the slender little arm continually
moving to and fro sprinkling the "henna" leaves
above the boys and men.

At last the boys were taken away, and the carpet,
etc. removed. The maiden bride had fulfilled the
first of her duties — she had blessed the ceremony.
The children being now purified, in token thereof
water-coolers were broken on the ground. I observed

i84 CAVE DWELLERS

also that chopped eggs and a great quantity of food
were distributed to the assembled children.

The scene 1 had just witnessed was so full of
charm, and, above all, so impressive, that for a
moment I was almost awed by its solemnity.

At the end of the enclosure the crowd kept moving
restlessly backwards and forwards, endeavouring to
see what was going on, for the bride was about to
enter her house.

Mohammed's first wife, closely veiled, came for-
ward, and, taking her rival by the hand, led her into
their dwelling. On the other side of the bride
walked the negress, who for the last time, after many
years of loving care, directed her little Mena's foot-
steps. On her head was held a little mirror, whilst
she herself grasped with her right hand the hilt of a
long, straight, double - edged sword, the point of
which, carried foremost, was borne by a man. " Be-
ware ! Ill befall those who would injure this pure
young woman ; the sword would avenge her ! "

Thus, to the screaming of the music, the young
bride entered the gate.

As soon as the door had swung-to on its creaking
hinges, guns were discharged in every direction with
a deafening noise, and I was compelled to abandon
in haste my exalted seat, for the smoke nearly choked
me as the men and boys tired wildly in front of the
gate.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 185

It was then past noon, and there ensued a pause
in the festivities, the musicians requiring rest, being
expected to play with renewed vigour in the
evening.

The numerous guests were fed in the dwellings
and tents. Before the meal the people collected in
groups under the trees, and friends and acquaintances
conversed together. The Khalifa, who sat surrounded
by the sheikhs of the villages, requested me to seat
myself near him.

Several of these men were known to me, and I
thanked them for their hospitality ; others invited me
to their villages. I replied that time was short, and
I must hasten over the mountains and on to Medinin
on the plains ; so on this occasion they must excuse
me, for I could not accept their invitation.

" But you have visited Judlig, Ben Aissa, Tujud,
Zaraua, and many other villages in our land. You
accepted the invitations of their sheikhs — wherefore,
then, will you not also visit Beni Sultan ? " said the
sheikh of that village. " Come to our * Ksar,' and if
you will remain a long time you will be welcome."

I explained that I had to go all the way to
Medinin, where I was expected, but the sheikh
would take no refusal, and the Khalifa put in his
word, saying —

'* You can ride to-morrow to Beni Sultan, and eat
* kus-kus ' there ; thence you can go on to Tujan,

CAVE DWELLERS

sleep then?., and next day ride straight to Me-
diuin."

" But I WHS informed at Gabf's tliat I couhl not
ride a horse over the niouiituiii on aecount of the
RMid ))eing rough and impracticable."

" You sliall have a mule which will carry you
anywhere."

" But my liorse and my Spahi'a horse, what shall
I do witli them ? "

" I will take tliem to (labes with greetings from
you," said tlic Sheikh of Tujan. " 1 am just abont
to travel thei-e to confer with the Khalifa, and so
must also the Sheikh of Beni Sultan."

" That is all very well, but I shall not sec any-
thing of yourselves."

" No, unfortunately we are compelled to be
away, as the Khalifa has summoned us; but the
men in our villages will receive you well, and be
pleased at your visit."

I could but consent, and thank them for thdr
invitation. '

The Slicikli of Beni Sultan wm a proud, generoi
mao, who was said to be very wealthy.

Tujan is under the Khalifa of GnJ
official had sent his friend, the Kh^
a fine bull and five goats a»J
the feast.

For aqi^auc,! sat in cog

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEiJ 187

to whom I ofiFered cigarettes, the old Khalifa having
a jmsitive weakness for these, to him rare, articles
of commerce.

After »;iunteriiig for some time iimoiigst the
various groups to greet the people, I returned to
my cave. It was quite dark ; I lit a couple of
candles, and occupied myself making notes of all
I had seen and heard, Manaur, Amor, and several
others sitting round me, and givinf^ me any ex-
planations I desired. Little Ali and his brother
were my faithful interpreters, hut my work was
often interrupted, so many came to salute me,
perhaps in hopes of being offered cigarettes ; and
the room filled by degrees.

At last meal-time approached, and they left
me. So for once I ate all the good things in peace.
Soup, ragout of fowl, roast kid, kus-kus, bread and
honey, and dates. Only Mausur remained with
me, and overwhelmed me with assurances of his
fricndwliip, which I heartily returned.

When I had eaten, 1 looked out into the court-
yard. The great vaulted chamber opposite was
lighted, and was choke full of men eating amongst
silence reigned, for it is not
< to 1)6 noisy when eating.

rave were Ali, Hamed,

eating ap the remains of

^ cavern passage stood

i88 CAVE DWELLERS

our horses devouring their plentiful fodder. Under
the palms, the olive trees, and beneath the tents,
all were in full enjoyment of the wedding feast.

I stepped out and went up the hill, where the
stars twinkled above me, and all was still.

Out of the caves in the heart of the earth,
streaming up from the courtyards on every side,
I saw rays of light coming from the women's dwell-
ings, where they and the children also enjoyed the
banquet.

It was nearly seven o'clock, and it would not
be long ere the rejoicings recommenced in the en-
closure before the gate with song, music, and
dancing. But the hour was also near when the
bridegroom would present himself to his bride,
accompanied only by a few friends.

As I stood, lost in thought, Ali came hastily
and pulled at my burnous, whispering that the
bridegroom had sent me a message by one of his
friends, who was seeking me.

As I returned to learn particulars, I met the
messenger.

'' Mohammed asks if you will accompany him,
Sidi. Will you ? And shall I lead you ? "

I consented without hesitation, whereupon we,
the messenger, Ali, and I, started at once on our
way in the dark, going through narrow lanes in
the direction of the mountains.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 189

All around was quiet, and became even more so
as we put a distance between ourselves and tlie
festivities. Suddenly a dog barked in the dark-
ness; we were probably in the neighbourhood of
a dwelling-place. Soon after, it ceased barking ;
we were beyond its domain.

The messenger, who was one of the bridegroom's
intimate friends, took my hand and led me, as he
perceived that I had some difficulty in finding
secure footing, and my little Ali walked on the
other side of me, clinging to a fold of my burnous.

When we had proceeded thus some ten minutes,
I made out some dark figures before me. These
were the bridegroom and his friends. They were
squatted on the ground, but rose when I approached.

By the faint light of the stars I distinguished
an average-sized man clothed in a red burnous,
beneath which showed a white haik — could it be,
perchance, my gift? On his head he wore a red
fez with a tassel. This was evidently the bride-
groom.

Addressing me he said, " If you will be my
friend, as you have become that of my father and
my brothers, I shall be grateful to you, and will
beg of you to accompany me shortly to my house."

I thanked him for his invitation, which I was
delighted to accept.

The bridegroom's toilet was evidently only just

igo CAVE DWELLERS

completed, for a young Jew was still present, whose
father I had visited during my first visit to Hadeij.
He was very busy arranging the folds of the bride-
groom's costume, having doubtless acted as his
valet.

We all sat down together. A pleasant scent
of attar of rose was wafted from the bridegroom's
clothing towards me, and he produced a little phial
of this, and passed it to me to use from. When he
stretched out his hand, I noticed that rings glittered
on his fingers, and that he held a pocket-hand-
kerchief, a luxury I was not accustomed to see
hereabouts.

" Are you married ? " he asked me.

I answered, "Yes, surely."

" How many wives have you ? "

" I have only one."

" Only one ! "

I explained that in our country we were in the
habit of having only one wife. It w^as forbidden
to us to have several. Why, he could not compre-
hend, and at that moment I did not think fit to
explain.

*' See, Mohammed," I said, " I will confess to
you that it is not good to have only one wife, for
a man is her slave. Two wives must doubtless be
worse, for then there can be no peace ; but I tell
you that, in my opinion, a man ought to have three

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADETJ 191

wives, neither more nor less. With that number
he can pit two against each other, and take refuge
with the third ; but in such case he must be careful
to vary."

Mohammed understood my joke, and invited me
at once to visit Hadeij next time he should marry.

Lighting one of my cigarettes, I passed them
round. When I was about to oiFer them to the Jew,
little Ali hastily pulled my sleeve and whispered,
" You must not offer him any ; he is a Jew." I
did so notwithstanding, and probably by this act
fell low in Ali*s estimation, so innate is the con-
tempt for the Jewish race — " Those dogs ! "

Afterwards I found it had been a great piece of
stupidity on my part to have shown civility to the
Jew. He misunderstood it, and became intrusive
and impertinent, so that later in the evening I had
to set him down sharply, causing little Ali to laugh
a laugh of superiority.

Although much tempted, I did not try to con-
verse with the bridegroom about his home life,
knowing that it would be considered indelicate. For
an Arab never asks even his best friend after his
wife's health. The most he may say is, " How is it
with your house ? "

When we had waited there for about an hour,
a man came running in to say that it was time.
We rose, and I was told that amongst good friends

192 CAVE DWELLERS

it was always customary to carry tlic bridegroom
part of the way to the bride's apartment. So, lift-
ing the heavy Mohammed, I carried him a few
paces. He was evidently pleiised at my doing him
this friendly service, and, the form having been
gone through, sprang quickly down, and, taking
me and one of his other friends each by a hand,
began to run. Before us sped a young man ; the
rest followed. We were breathless when we reached
the caves.

All was in order. A crowd of spectators began
to gather immediately, and we slipped in through
the gates and down the passage, rapidly crossed
into the first court, thence through the under-
ground passage and out into the other court. This
was half-dark, but from one of the caves shone a
light. Here we entered. The vaulted oblong room
with its whitewashed walls was brilliantly lit up.
At the far end a carpet hung right across the room,
concealing something on the ground ; in front was
spread another carpet. Here Mohammed seated
himself, facing the door. There was no other furni-
ture visible.

On the bri(le<i;r()om's left his friend took a seat,
pointing to me to take my place on the right.
There was not the slightest sign on the features of
the former expressive of any emotion, either of glad-
ness or gravity. Tc; the looker-on he appeared

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 193

merely phlegmatic, and sat, wrapped in his cloak,
staring into vacancy. His friend, who was also
clothed in red, sat, like himself, in silence.

In the open doorway I saw the faces of Bel-
kassim and Mansur, also some children, Jews, and
the men who had followed us. No women were
present.

When we had been seated thus for a while, there
appeared, from the part of the room divided from
us by the hangings, a large dish of kus-kus and,
soon after, a pitcher of water. These were placed
before Mohammed, who took a mouthful of the
food — the first meal prepared for him by his bride.

We sat silent a moment longer, then Belkassim
dismissed the spectators from the door, and I rose,
shook hands with my friend the bridegroom, and
left. In the doorway I looked back. There sat
the bridegroom, dumb and stiff, but behind him
I saw the carpet being drawn a little aside, and in
the dim light beyond it fancied I caught sight of
a woman's face. Whether it were pretty, young,
or smiling, I know not. I only know that it must
have been the bride s.

In the open air the festival was in full swing.

Closely packed in front of the gate, and all along

the approach, sat veiled women. The banks and

hollows were white with spectators. The negroes

danced, played, and drummed. There a mulatto
13

194 CAVE DWELLERS

sang a droll ballad ; here two men danced a stick
dance, and so on.

I had been requested to take my place amongst
the bridegroom's friends, who held themselves in a
group apart, prepared to show him this last day's
homage.

About an hour elapsed, then from the bridal
cave a muffled gun-shot was heard ; it was scarcely
noticeable, as the shrieking and booming of the
music overpowered all sounds. Ali hastily handed
me a gun, which I discharged, and several shots
were fired from our group. Every one of those
present knew what this meant, and rejoiced, but
none more so than the family of the bride. They,
who had waited anxiously, were reassured, for she
would not now, under cover of the silent dark
night, and wrapped in a grey blanket, be hunted
at a given word out of the village, and driven
home to sorrowing and disgraced parents and
relatives.

The festival was not interrupted, but continued
as before.

With the Khalifa by my side, and surrounded
by his sons, the sheikhs, and the principal guests, 1
remained seated all the evening and far into the
night, watching the entertainment, that in course
of time became very monotonous.

Now and again some men stepped forward,

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ 195

either singly of two together. Over their shoulders
hung red cloaks, and they posed in graceful atti-
tudes, with their heads held high, one foot forward,
and the left arm hidden beneath the burnous and
the red cloak, whilst the right hand was extended.
On each side of them crouched a negro, with the
flaps of his burnous spread out before him to catch
the coins shortly to be thrown to him. Bound
these figures danced other negroes, whilst the drums
played.

Now one of the red figures raised an arm and
threw a coin into the negro's lap, then again, slipping
his hands into the folds over his breast, pulled out
another coin. This went on incessantly, that all
might witness how much money was distributed.

First it was the turn of the representatives from
Beni Sultan, then from Zaraua, Tamezred, or other
villages, who in this way paid the tribute expected
of them on such festive occasions for the benefit
of the negro musicians.

When at last the men ceased, and the chink of
coin was no longer heard, one of the negroes ad-
vanced towards the group of women, and, half-
singing, half-declaiming, told them that the men
of such and such villages had given so much, at
the same time praising not only their generosity,
but also their other virtues. Now and then his
song was interrupted by the ** Yu, yu " of the women.

196 CAVE DWELLERS

which this evening, owiug to the number of voices,
sounded quite imposing. When he concluded, the
applause was deafening.

Now and then a solo was sung, two or three
voices joining in the chorus that followed, the singers
sticking their noses as close together as they could
during the performance. These songs are always
sung in a nasal tone, without any modulation, and
the time never varies.

CHAPTER XI
Over the Mountains and across the Plain

FROM HaDEIJ to MeTAMER

During the night most of the guests wended their
way homewards, but a few still remained next
morning ; some of whom desired to accompany me
to Beni Sultan.

The bridegroom was expected to emerge from
his cave at any moment, so I lingjered awhile, partly
in hopes of bidding him farewell, and also because
I had been told he would be received with rejoic-
ings, and would distribute sweetmeats amongst the
village children. But the time fixed for my
departure came, and I had to ride off" without
witnessing this concluding scene of the festival.

Mansur's mule was brought me. The Khalifa him-
self arranged my saddle and lengthened the stirrups,
thus showing me tlie final marks of courtesy. He
then gave the guide his instructions, and I took
my leave with warm expressions of thanks to him
and to his sons, and also to the assembled men. I
rewarded little Ali for the services he had rendered
me, bowed respectfully to the Khalifa, and rode off"

197

198 CAVE DWELLERS

with my heart full of gratitude towards him and
his people for their great hospitality, and with the
pleasant impression that my stay in the Matmata
mountiains had given me the opportunity of seeing
manners and customs which, to my knowledge, no
European had yet witnessed in these regions. I
thankfully recognised my good fortune in having
had the goodwill and assistance of the authorities ;
and was, above all, grateful for the great hospitality
of the people from whom I had then just parted,
and for their friendship which I flattered myself
I had gained.

A mule saddle is very broad, and resembles
somewhat a pack. Its peculiarity is that the
stirrup-leathers are not secured to it. A leather
strap with a stirrup hung at each end is slung over
the saddle, so that, to mount, one must either vault
into the saddle without setting foot in the stirrup
or be lifted into it. To anyone accustomed to the
ordinary English saddle it is an extremely un-
comfortable seat, as it is necessary to bear equally
on both stirrups, or one risks losing one's balance
and falling off*; but I must say my mule proved
to be altogether a success on the difficult mountain
road.

For nearly an hour we rode along the mountain
top, whence we had a lovely view ; then we
descended into a long valley in which were many

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 199

half-dead olive trees. and green palms. Just as we
began the descent, we met a couple of men on their
way to Hadeij from Beni Sultan to complain to
the Khalifa that their sheep had been stolen.

In the valley was a deep, broad river bed, then
dry, and the mountain sides were furrowed with deep
watercourses leading thereto. In these furrows stood
a number of palms surrounded by embankments.

We halted in a lovely grove of olives, amongst
which sprung a few palms. Here some of our
guides awaited us. They had crossed the mountain
by a shorter but precipitous path, whilst we had
circled round by a less steep and fatiguing route.

From an eminence some way down the valley
we observed a village looking like an eagle's nest.
This was the ancient Beni Sultan, now deserted and
in ruins, the present village lying on the incline on
the farther side of the mountain. A few of the
houses in this deserted village were excavated in the
ground.

We travelled directly across the valley, and by
a very dangerous and slippery path reached the
lowest point of the mountain ridge. From thence
we looked down on the valley on the other side.
Facing us were the ruins of the old village, standing
picturesquely against the sky. We rode down in a
zigzag line past the farms and houses scattered on
the mountain side ; the dwellings were crowded

200 CAVE DWELLERS

with domestic animals, with men and women, and
especially with children.

Not till we reached the valley did we halt, close
to the descent to a cluster of cave dwellings belong-
ing to the Sheikh, in absence of whom I was most
cordially received by one of his nearest relatives.
The passage to the cave was not covered, and was
cut into steps where it sloped down into the ground
towards the gate. On one side of the wall by the
steps was dug out a vaulted and somewhat decorated
cave ; tliis was the guest-room where I dined. After-
wards I visited the nearer of the Sheikh's houses,
with permission to examine them from top to
bottom.

In the main these dwellings were on the same
plan as those of Hadeij, but I found several cisterns
in botli the farms and the ruins. Water flowed
from the mountains into these through canals and
primitive pipes.

The caves were not all dug down and around a
courtyard, but were often high up on a perpen-
dicular wall, and were reached by steps.

The women offered me dates and showed me
their looms. I saw where they slept, generally on
benches like low tables, called by them *'mokera."

In one of the underground vaults, to which the
access was through a very heavy gate, was an oil-
mill, and in another a granary.

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 201

After spending a couple of hours in the shelter
of the caves, we again started riding through the
valley in a southerly direction, and passing through
large palm and olive groves. Nowhere in the
mountains had I seen such rich vegetation.

Close to the village were some ten women clad
in dark blue, drawing water from one of the few
wells on this mountain. Two large columns, formed
of hewn palm stems, were inserted on either side of
the well, so as to slope inwards. These supported
another palm stem placed horizontally on the top of
them ; this again sustained a wooden disk by means
of which the water was hauled up. This system
of drawing water is rather comical, for the women,
instead of hauling up the bucket by moving their
hands on the rope, seize the latter and take a quick
run, the distance covered being equal to the depth
of the well. When they have thus drawn a pitcher-
ful of water they return to the well to take another
run.

We constantly passed spots in the valley planted
more or less largely with olive trees, but some of
these were in an unhealthy condition, showing grey
or yellow instead of a deep fresh green. If rain
were not soon to fall these would die, and it would
be many years before others could be grown and
bear fruit.

It cut me to the heart to see all this wealth on

202 CAVE DWELLERS

the verge of destruction, and the more so when I
learnt that the KhaUfa owned many of the trees.
Rain had fallen in many other districts, but none
in this.

Quitting the valley we turned to the right, and
rode in a westerly direction amongst colossal cliffs
and into a wild ravine, where we were surrounded
to the north, west, and south by towering rock
pinnacles. Only the very centre of this chasm was
reached by the sun, which, hidden behind the
mountain, streamed in glorious radiance through
a rift in the wall of the cliff. On either side of
this rift, with the light playing on their roughly
piled grey masses, were the two villages of Tujan,
clinging to the precipitous sides like swallows' nests
to a wall. On one side, high up the mountain, I
caught a glimpse of what appeared to be an eagle's
nest as the sunlight glanced on it. On inquiring
what it was I received the reply that in old, very
old, days the village people resided there, before
they moved lower down the slope.

When we arrived at a difficult pass, my guide,
'' Krzih ben Ilamed," who had his home in the
village, asked me to dismount. So, leading our
animals, we walked slowly up, our feet slipping,
and the stones rattling down behind us. Beneath
some olive trees we again mounted to make our
entry.

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 203

We were now near enough to discern that the
rift was a deep ravine; on either side was an
irregular mass of dreary, grey houses piled one over
the other, above which the nearly perpendicular
cliffs rose steeply to almost the very top of
the mountain, broken only in one place by a flat
surface. On the side nearest to us stood the ruins
of the village of bygone days, perched like a
mediaeval castle on the summit of the cliff.

I sat in silent contemplation of this imposing
sight, till interrupted by Hamed, the faithful
Hamed, who came up dragging his horse behind
him. He told me to turn round and look at the
view of the Mediterranean.

Great heavens ! how glorious was the sight
when I raised myself and looked back. It was so
beautiful that even Hamed and the Arabs were
awed by its splendour.

Looking down directly over the slopes, the
valley, and the mountains on either side, we saw
the blue sea far away beyond the plains. In the
evening light all the tints of blue, violet, brown,
yellow, and green were softly blended and inter-
mingled as into a veil which spread over the whole
landscape, and imagination divined more than was
actually visible, thus adding to the fascination of
the scene.

By the first house, the Sheikh's, we halted.

204 CAVE DWELLERS

Some people came out, one of whom, I suppose,
acted as his representative, since he invited me in ;
but Hamed was already oflf his horse and had gone
in to look at the quarters. He returned and
announced that they were very bad, upon which I
inquired whether notice had been given of my
coming, and whether the Sheikh had not directed
that I should be given decent accommodation. The
spokesman insisted that there was no other room
available. I suspected this to be false, and ordered
Hamed and Erzib to mount their horses at once,
and we rode up a narrow lane and alighted outside
Erzib's dwelling, where he had already told me I
should be welcome. I heard the man following us,
and saw that a number of people had gradually
assembled.

Erzib's dwelling lay high up on the side of the
clift', but there were others that were higher still,
and* yet others below. In front of these dwellings
ran a narrow path, that, starting from the highest
farms, led in a zigzag course down to those below.
The outside of the path was on the edge of a steep
declivity, down which all refuse was thrown, and
was therefore dirty ; looking, as did all the other
banks when seen from a distance, as though scored
with black stripes. On the slope below us was a
house with a courtyard between it and the cliff wall.
This yard, in which a woman was working, was

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 205

completely open to view. Thence the ground fell
gradually away till it ended in palm-grown gorges
and valleys ; beyond these were low hills, then a
plain, and, last of all, the sea.

Below us, and a little to one side, was the
principal edifice of the village — a little mosque, or
Marabout's tomb, outside which a crowd of men
had gathered to perform their evening devotions.
Kneeling almost simultaneously, they kissed the
earth and rose again. A few of them presently dis-
appeared through the open door of the Marabout's
tomb, but the remainder stayed outside.

Looking upwards, the eyrie on the summit was
visible above Erzib's house, that is, one could dis-
cern it by stretching one's neck. On the opposite
side, at the end to the left, lay the other village.

In the evening the women sallied forth in
numbers to fetch water from the cisterns in the
valley, and the village dogs barked, answering each
other from every side. Below us, at the foot of the
slope, a crowd of men gathered. I could hear their
shouts and see their gesticulations, as, with extended
arms, they pointed to one figure. Some of them
turned and called up the bank to us, one of them
being the man who had met me on the Sheikh's behalf
They shouted that I should come down and live
wherever I pleased with the other men, and when I
replied tliat I was well installed, they informed Erzib

2o6 CAVE DWELLERS

that fowls, eggs, and bread would shortly be sent,
that the stranger guest might have a really good
meal prepared for him.

Through a very broad gateway I descended into
a court. Opposite was a long house with its own
entrance, to the right another resembling it ; and
between the two was a passage leading to a third
dwelling that was situated at the back. To the left
was a wall.

On the flat roof of the nearest of these houses
stood some enormous rush-bins for corn, and in the
courtyard was another. There also ivere two fire-
places, one on either side, screened off* with branches.
Behind the screen to the left sat a woman laying
small faggots on the fire to warm her hands, for it
was cold since the sun had set. Some children
came out of the door, but fled when they caught
sight of me, wrapped as I was in the folds of Erzib's
burnous. From the door on the left peeped out an
elderly and rather nice-looking woman.

These tw^o were Erzib's wives : each had her own
house ; the children belonged to the woman I saw
seated by the hearth.

Erzib told his wives to come forward. This
they did quite naturally and willingly, retiring
asain after I had shaken hands with them.

Soon aft<5r, I saw people arriving with screaming
fowls and a basket of eggs and bread. Erzib at

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 207

once drew his knife and vanished with the hens — his
intentions were easy to divine.

In the meanwhile carpets had been spread on
the floor of the house, and a couch arranged for me.
I lit a candle which had been placed in a small square
recess in the wall. The room was very irregularly
shaped. The floor was of beaten clay, and the walls
not whitewashed. In the background a door led into
another room containing a loom, and where gala
dresses hung on a cord, and household goods on the
wall. Through yet another door in the wall to the
right was a room with a bed in it raised on four
slight stumps : this was made of twigs, and had no
coverings.

This dwelling was inhabited by the younger wife
and her children — two boys and a little girl. The
wife was pretty and not old.

In the house in the courtyard the elder wife
resided. In this the anteroom was larger, and con-
tained household goods and implements ; behind it
was the sleeping apartment.

A grown-up married son, then absent, occupied
a house tucked away at the back, and designed on
the same plan as the others. His wife was at home.

Whilst the pile of wood burnt and crackled in
the yard and the women were busy preparing food,
I sat on a bank outside the house in company of my
host and several other men.

2o8 CAVE DWELLERS

The moon had risen and shone clearly over
mountain and vale. I could see down into a court-
yard at the foot of the slope, where a fire burnt
brightly on a hearth. Over it hung a cauldron
watched by the housewife. She was young and
pretty, and as she moved to and fro a couple of
little children trotted after her. Now and then she
stood still, shading her eyes with her hand, and
gazing up in our direction ; -possibly in the stillness
of the night our voices reached her, for it was not
likely that she could see us. By the hearth a white
dog lay and growled, and when the woman paused
and looked up he moved restlessly, for he also was
watching the stranger.

Erzib s first wife came out and stood leaning
against the doorway. She did not speak, but
was evidently interested in our conversation. Her
husband glanced at her and said abruptly —

" She has a great sorrow, and has grieved and
wept for many years. Ali, her only son, who was
in service at Gabes, was sent to prison, accused of
having stolen money from the tradesman he served.
But he was innocent — that we know ; he was a good
boy, and his mother loved him. It is now four
years and four months since we heard from him, and
eight months more must pass before we can have
him home again."

** Do you not even know if he lives ? "

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 209

" Yes, we have learnt through strangers that he
is alive, and supposed to be imprisoned at Bona
in Algeria."

The old woman drew herself along the wall till
she was close to me when she heard of what we
were talking.

" Are you from Bona ? " she asked, whimpering.

"No," I replied, "I come from a much more
distant place, and have never been in Bona."

" Ah ! then you do not know Ali," she said, with
a sob.

" No, poor woman," I replied ; " that I do not ;
but now you will soon see your son alive. You
have waited so long for him that the remaining
time will soon pass ere he return to you and
be happy with you again, for you love him.
He will have thought so often of you, and he
will be so good to you that both of you will
rejoice." '

" Ah ! it was a great misfortune, for he was
innocent — I am sure of that ; another must have
been the culprit, for he was so young."

" How old was he ? "

"That I do not remember."

" Don't you know what year he was born ? "

" No, I cannot recollect ; we never know any-
thing of that."

" Don't you know either, Erzib ? "
14

2IO CAVE DWELLERS

" No, Sidi ; but it was before the strangers came
to this country." ^

The poor woman sobbed audil)ly, and Erzib
pushed her inside the door that her weeping might
not trouble me, saying, " She is very unhappy,
Sidi."

" Oh yes, Erzib. Would I were able to help you
to get back your son sooner, or at least to procure
you tidings of him. But this I can promise — I will
speak to the Khalifa of Gabes on the subject, and, if
possible, send you greeting from your son."

To my regret, however, I must confess that I
was unable later to do anything for these poor folk.
Whether tlie boy is still in prison I know not, and
whether innocent or no, I know less. My sincere
hope is that he may be worthy of his parents'
touching affection.

The repast was now brought and set out in
the house, on the clay floor, where I enjoyed it;
the father, surrounded by his children whom he
caressed, sat aside with Hamed and the younger
wife.

When I had finished, and Hamed and Erzib had
also eaten, we remained seated. I talked with the
wife about her children. The eldest may have l)een
about ten years old ; he was a lively boy, who

^ The Arabs in this country keep no account of their age. The most
they can remember is that they were bom the year this or that hap[)ened.

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 211

nodded continually to me, and was indefatigable in
showing me all the treasures of his home, from an
old musket to his father's agricultural implements.
When I showed surprise at a very primitive and
curious harrow used to break up the soil, his father
gave it to me.

Next in age to the boy was a very pretty little
girl about six years old. Unfortunately she had
lost one eye ; her father told me that it was in con-
sequence of a severe attack of inflammation when
she was quite little, and that the eye had fallen
out of itself. Here in the south one meets with an
alarming number of people who are blind or suffer-
ing from eye complaints. A doctor told me that
many are born thus ; with others it is the result of
dust, heat, and uncleanliness.

The youngest child was a bright little fellow of
two, who clung to his father, whose neck he clasped
tightly in his arms.

Feeling disposed to take a stroll before retiring
to rest, I bade Erzib follow me. As we crossed the
court, he inquired whether I would not like to see
all the dwellings. Accordingly we went first to
visit the elder lady. When we entered with a light
we found her crouching in a corner, her face buried
in her hands ; beside her lay a large dog which
growled at me.

Thence we went into the son's house. Asleep

212 CAVE DWELLERS

on the bed, quite dressed, — for the natives never
undress at night, — was a woman wrapped in blue
clothing ; she was evidently the son's wife.

We walked on and up amongst other houses till
we were nearly at the top of the village. Beneath,
we saw the lights and fires in the courts, and heard
the incessant barking of dogs. Shortly after, we
climbed a difficult ascent just over the village, to a
ledge or terrace of some width cut in the side of the
cliflf, which from thence rose, quite straight and
steep, to the old deserted village that lay in dark-
ness on the very summit. According to Erzib, we
could not reach it from the side we were on.

I contented myself with examining some real
cliff caves, which I lit up by means of matches.
They were excavated from the terrace, and, accord-
ing to tradition, had once been inhabited ; they were
irregular in form, and not very large.

After an hour's enjoyment of the beautiful even-
ing, we descended from this high point.

Wrapping myself in my burnous I lay down on
my couch on the ground ; in the same room lay both
Hamed and Erzib. In the side chamber, of which
the door remained open, slept the children and their
mother. Just as I was falling asleep a woman came
and spread a covering over me ; it warmed me well,
and I slept till daybreak, and was only once dis-
turbed by a little kid coming in through the open

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 213

door leading from the courtyard and tripping over
me. I heard then the children, who with their
mother were sleeping in the next room, Hamed and
Erzib moving on their beds, and, out of doors, the
distant and continuous barking of dogs. I slept
again, and when I awoke saw that what had been
spread over me was a brand new festal garment that
evidently was considered none too good for the
guest.

From the doorway overlooking the courtyard I
saw through the gate and down into the valley,
where grew a solitary palm, and at the same time
had a view of the flat roofs of several houses, and of
the path where the horses and mules stood ready
saddled. From a side chamber the head of a cow
came peering in at the gate, and above the gateway
a white dog lay on the wall watching me.

I gave some money to the children, ate a couple
of dates with a sup of water, and, having thanked
the women for their hospitality, mounted, with
Erzib in front and Hamed behind me. As we left,
the women came out to throw refuse down the slope,
and vanished again behind the wall.

From the hearths rose a light blue smoke that
was wafted over the valley beneath us.

We had a view over the mountains of the valley,
the plains, and the Mediterranean Sea, as we followed
the route along the western declivity of the Mat-

214 CAVE DWELLERS

mata range, which commands the low-lying land
that extends right away to Tripoli.

For a while we were accompanied by two women
who were on their way to the mountains. They
tripped along beside our horses, and stared at me in
astonishment through carelessly drawn veils.

The mountain tops, w^here lie the villages of
Shenini and Sguimi, are a continuation of the
southern range. As I was aware that the inhabit-
ants of these villages were absent sowing their
crops, and having been told that the dwellings were
similar to those I had already seen, I decided not to
visit them. We therefore left them on one side and
rode down the mountain and across a small plain
encircled by hills, behind which lie the great steppes.
Towards the east this plain is bounded by low hills,
where water springs are found, and where we could
descry herds grazing. It was here that, when pass-
ing through a little thicket, we spied a covey of
partridges running amongst the bushes. Erzib tried
to fire at them from his horse, but it would not
stand long enough, and when he got oflf it was too
late — the birds had flown.

Before traversing the last of these hills, we
halted and partook of dates, bread, and water, as
many hours would elapse before we could arrive at
any place of habitation.

The ride on the mule liad tired me, so I preceded

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER 215

the others on foot, and reached the farther side of
the acclivity. There lies an intenninable flat plain
stretching as far as the eye can reach from the east
to the north-west ; whilst towards the south the
mountains fade away in long undulations. In the
midst of the plain I distinguished a hill, and on its
summit what appeared to be a tower or fortress.
This was the signal station near Metamer. It corre-
sponds to the one we saw near Gab^s, and also to
another farther south.

I wandered dowij the gentle slope, through
bushes and among stones, and crossed the bed of the
river, that, coming from the mountains, winds out
into the plain. There were many paths, all leading
in an easterly direction. I followed one of these,
crossed yet another stony torrent bed, and continued
steadily towards the east, making the signal station
my point of direction ; until, looking round, I dis-
covered the two riders in their white burnouses far
away towards the south. They beckoned to me, as
we were compelled to make a detour to avoid a
rough and uneven river bed.

Joining once more my party, we rode farther
and farther over the plain, which becomes dismally
desolate and monotonous ; with the exception of the
hill and its signal station, nothing breaks the long
line of the horizon.

At last we viewed in the distance a couple of

2i6 CAVE DWELLERS

palm trees, and concluded that the Ksar of Metamer
was probably near them, but we could not see it at
all, as it lay in a hollow.

For long, naught l)ut these trees showed on the
level horizon. Then at last the tops of other palm
trees appeared, and a little later some huts; the
number of these increased, and proved to be the
outskirts of the town. The huts — of straw and
branches — were round, as a rule, with a pointed
thatch. But it was easy to infer that the inhabit-
ants were absent, as the network which usually
encloses the verandah that runs round each hut had
been removed, and only the centre of the huts re-
mained, their thatched eaves sticking out all round,
so that they resembled thick mushrooms on short
stalks.

As the day advanced, the heat became stifling,
so that I took off* my gaiters and bared my legs.
But after a couple of hours they were so scorched by
the sun that, on arrival at Medinin, I had to ask a
doctor to dress them for me, to ease the pain of the
sun-scorch, and it was eight days before they re-
covered.

CHAPTER XII

Metamer and Medinin

Arriving at the palm grove in the hollow we had
seen from the distance, we found that it lay by a
river bed. The trees were not particularly well
cared for, as could be seen at a glance ; they were
far apart, and there were few ditches for irrigation.

On a slope to the east of the valley and above
it, there is a village of peculiar construction, with
whitewashed buildings that are dazzling in the sun-
light. This is the "Ksar" Metamer. The ground
plan of the houses is oblong and rectangular, and
their raised roofs are vaulted. They lie lengthwise,
as the houses do at home in towns dating from the
Middle Ages — the gable ends turning towards the
streets. In general they are erected round an open
square. The fronts of those facing the plain are
without any aperture, except some loop-holes here
and there. In other words, every quarter, and
also the town as a whole, forms a little fortress.
This is the style of building adopted here in the
plains ; it is, in fact, the same plan as that employed
in cave construction, but in this case carried out

217

y

2i8 CAVE DWELLERS

aboveground ; since the natives have found it im-
possible to reach the inaccessible mountain peaks, or
to dig down into the rocky ground. The houses are
very often seven storeys high. On every storey there
is a well-barred door to the inner gable. This is
reached by steps or by stones projecting from the
\valls. The effect is most peculiar and picturesque.
Each inhabitant carries in his hand a key that he
takes with him everywhere. This locks his rooms,
which are mostly used as corn stores.

Not far from the " Ksar " are barracks for the
little garrison, and shops that supply the needs of
the soldiers, not only of the place, but also of those
quartered in the neighbouring towm of " Medinin."
I did not wish to visit the camp just then, so dis-
mounted outside an Arab dwelling, and was invited
to enter and partake of stewed kid.

After a hurried visit to the town, and having
taken leave of Erzib, who desired to ride a long way
towards his home that evening, I procured a new
guide and rode eastwards over the plain, so as to
arrive before nightfall at the Ksar of Medinin. As
we approached its neighbourhood we turned into the
highroad from Gabes.

Before us and to our left lay the "Ksai-" of
Medinin, illuminated by the evening sun. The ends
of the houses were turned outwards, producing the
effect of a circular wall scalloped at the top. Above

METAMER AND MEDININ 221

these vaulted gable ends I caught a glimpse of
higher buildings, and amongst them, in the centre
of the town, a large square block. This was the
Kasba. Through a narrow opening in the row of
houses I saw the inner gable ends of dwellings,
and doors disposed one above the other, the whole
calling to mind the pictures one sees of Mexican
" pueblos."

Parts lay in deep shadow, parts blinding white
in the sunshine. These lights and shadows were
mingled in such dazzling contrast that the eye could
scarcely discriminate what it beheld.

We rode along the exterior wall till we came to
some palms ; farther on grew others. These planta-
tions are to the south of the Ksar and between it
and the European quarter, which showed up gradu-
ally on the right, and consisted of barracks for the
cavalry and infantry, quarters for the officers, and
those occupied by the " Bureau de Eenseignement."
The soldiers work amongst the palms, and have
enclosed a plot of ground as a garden. In the beds
I saw tender young green plants sprouting, which
proved to be cress. In the open square in front of
headquarters, and before the other houses, holes
were being dug for plants by soldiers in light linen
clothing.

In the future the whole military quarter will be
surrounded by a beautiful palm grove, affording

222 CAVE DWELLERS

shade to the dwellings now completely exposed to
the glare of the sun.

I rode up to headquarters — a large building —
where the flag was hoisted half-mast high on account
of the death of Marshal MacMahon.

Lieutenant Henry, who was at the Bureau, came
out to welcome me. He told me that I was expected,
and added that I should meet the oflficers of the
4th Light Brigade, whom I had known well at
Gabes, they having arrived to relieve the southern
station. I was quickly conducted to real bachelors
quarters, consisting of a couple of rooms. All over
the walls hung weapons and curiosities collected in
these regions. The furniture, though camp-like, was
very comfortable. At last I was able to indulge in
the luxury of a bath and change.

In the meantime Hamed arrived to say farewell.
He wished to ride back to Metamer on his donkey
and accompany Erzib as far as Tujan, whence he
hoped to take the donkey back to Hadeij, and return
later to Gabes.

When I was dressed I called on the Commander-
in-Chief of the district, Commandant Billet, a young
man, who invited me to be his guest.

When I told him that I was most anxious to
meet some Tuareg if possible, he replied, to my
great joy, that by riding some thirty -two miles
farther south I should probably have my wish

METAMER AND MEDININ 223

gratified, as a telegram had just arrived from the
signal station that two of these men had come to
Tatuin, the most southerly station, to purchase corn.

Whether they might not have again left he did
not know, but at any rate there was a chance for me.
Relays of horses and an escort should be at my
disposal whenever I desired them ; but he hoped I
would stay over the morrow, that I might meet the
officers.

The garrison at this military post consists of a
company of infantry, a squadron of cavalry, and a
small detachment of artillery. The soldiers are
lodged in large airy barracks, and the officers have
comfortable quarters in new buildings.

There are no women within the camp, therefore
all domestic service is performed by soldiers, who
act as cooks and chambermaids. The officers form
themselves into committees for the control of supplies,
and at their table one dines remarkably well, as I
had occasion to verify that same evening.

Lieutenant Henry introduced me to his mess.
There I met most of the messmates of Gab^s, and
we renewed acquaintance to the clink of glasses.

After dinner we adjourned to the military club,
where we met all the officers of the garrison, both
young and old.

Next morning Lieutenant Henry accompanied me
to the Ksar. We first ascended the minaret, from

234

CAVE DWELLERS

which we had a beautiful view over the town and
plain. Then we visited the various groups of houses,
with their vaulted gables and remarkable steps to
the upper storeys. These steps were merely stones
projecting here and there from the wall for the
convenience of those who wished to climb up.

Several of the groups of houses clustered so closely
together, and leant so much the one upon the other
in endless confusion, that it was extremely difficult
to f]n<l onc'.s way through the la!»yrinth.

By a narrow opening, so low that we had to pas.s
through with bowed heads, we arrived in a court-
yard, emerging thence by a larger opening like a

METAMER AND MEDININ 225

gateway, built as a defence. Through loop-holes in
the sides, a severe fire might be kept up on an
attacking enemy.

In a few of the outer walls overlooking the plain
I noticed the same loop-holes ; but defence is sup-
posed to be maintained from the roofs, or rather
from the central building.

It surprised me not to see more men about ; but
my cicerone explained that nearly all the inhabitants
had sallied out on the 20th of this month, and had
gone towards Moktar and the Tripolitan frontier
nearest the sea, to follow their agricultural pursuits.

There they live in tents — first to sow, later to
watch their fields, and finally to gather the harvest ;
not returning until the month of June the following
year. Then they bring home the harvest, and store
the products in the Ksar, which thus becomes what
it is intended for — a great fortified granary.

At the time of my visit, there remained in the
Ksar only about a couple of hundred men, who were
merely left to guard the houses.

The place looks quite difllerent in the month of

July, when some one thousand five hundred or two

thousand men arrive and pitch their tents above the

Ksar ; they depart again in October, after they have

stored the barley, wheat, maize, '* sorghum," beans,

and millet.

The inhabitants belong to the Berber tribe of
15

226 CAVE DWELLERS

"Tuasin," and number some fifty thousand souls,
dwellers in the Ksar and on the plain. They possess
at least the same number of canjtels, a couple of
thousand asses and twenty thousand sheep, from
which it may be gathered that the greater portion
are nomads, rather than dwellers in the oasis. In
fact, they care little for their plantations.

In the groves near the Ksar grow palm, olive,
and fig trees, also a few pomegranates, peaches, and
apricots ; but they are ill tended, and produce but
poor crops.

The mode of life of the inhabitants and their
perpetual feuds with the tribes on their frontier
have caused them to develop into a brave and
warlike people. Every man owns a firearm, which
he does not hesitate to use on the slightest pretext.
If hardly pushed, he flies to his fortress with all his
possessions and cattle — there he is in safety.

It is natural that the Turks in Tripoli should
regard with mistrust the French occupation of
Tunisia, which they have never consented to recog-
nise ; and on that account have never been disposed
to have the frontier defined. To this day it remains
undetermined, perpetual frontier conflicts being the
result ; for the tribes on either side still look on
the country, as they have always done, as their own
to dispose of according to their will and pleasure ;
and, as hitherto, prefer to settle disputes in their

METAMER AND MEDININ 227

own way. But the French occupation of Me tamer,
Medinin, and Tatuin has been of no small service
in bringing about peace and quiet in these regions.

The northern side of the frontier is especially
desert and barren, consisting only of interminable
sandhills destitute of vegetation. South of this are
far-stretching steppes, seldom trodden by human
foot, and over which a deathlike silence reigns. No
paths are traced through these deserts to guide
the lonely traveller who may venture to penetrate
them. Even the natives fear to enter a territory
where any man they may meet must be regarded
as an enemy.

To the south the steppes form a junction with
the Matmata mountains, and are frequented only
by the Tripolitan tribe of Nuail and the Tunisian
Urghamma. These alone, therefore, would be capable
of defining the boundary of this desert region, as
their wanderings have made them well acquainted
with its limits.

The Urghamma tribe — from which this continent
apparently takes its name — the "Aurigha" of the
ancients having become Africa — numbers some
thirty thousand souls. At one time they mustered
some four or five thousand soldiers, and were
exempted by the Bey from payment of taxes,
as they had bound themselves to defend the
frontier.

228 CAVE DWELLERS

The fact was, that they would not pay taxes.
They took advantage of their peculiar position to
make armed forays to rob and plunder far and wide ;
and gloried in deeds of bloodshed, engraving a mark
on their guns for each man they slew. Guns covered
from stock to muzzle witli such marks are still to
be met with.

With the advent of the French, circumstance
altered, and now, thanks to the supervision of the
military authorities, the Urghamma behave more
like peaceful nomads.

Everywhere in the plains of Southern Tunisia I
found remains of ancient towers — now lying in
ruins, since the need for them no longer exists,
but where formerly the nomads sought refuge when
they were pursued. The decay of these towers
proves that the French have known how to establish
quiet and order in the country.

According to inquiries which I made in the
south, the Urghamma are divided into the following
groups : —

The Khezur and the Mehaben in and around
Medinin.

The Accara on the coast.

The Tuasin on the plains.

The Uderma on the mountain slopes and on the
plains.

The Jelidat people the eastern mountains.

METAMER and MEDiNiW 229

The Duiri are found in the mountains and on
the high tablelands.

We visited the Jews in their own quarter, and
conversed with a couple of women, who, with their
children, lived in a little hut stuck away in a
comer of a yard. One of the women was a sooth-
sayer, and showed us a book with closely written
leaves, evidently the source of her cunning.

a

In a large open square on the outskirts of the
Ksar stood a hut, occupied by a family of whom
only the women and children were at home. We
entered. It was dirty and comfortless, containing
no furniture, not even the indispensable " senduk." ^
The hut was built of slender branches wattled
together, and in many places was covered with old
rags to keep out rain. The form was circular with
a high-pointed roof, evidently carrying out the idea
of a tent. The fireplace was outside.

In the evening, after a jovial dinner with Com-
mandant Billet, at which most of the officers were
present. Lieutenants Adam, Coturicr, and Druot
started southwards with a company of Zephyrs, to
return in two night marches to Tatuin, a distance of
thirty-two miles. They invited me to breakfast with
them next day at Bir el Ahmer. The bugles rang,
and the sections tramped ofi* as we said au revoir.

The water in Medinin is very unwholesome, and

1 Chest.

230 CAVE DWELLERS

requires to be distilled before it is fit to drink; a
huge distilling apparatus has therefore been erected ;
this has a number of taps, whence the distilled water
flows drop by drop. A sentinel watches it, that the
precious liquor may not be wasted.

Not far from this is the post office, which is also
the telegraph office for private telegrams, the helio-
graph being used for military purposes.

Night and day, watch is kept on the tops of the
mountains and far out on the plains to the north-
west, that the flash connection between Gab&,
Medinin, and Tatuin may be constantly maintained.
It is expedient that a strict watch be kept, for
frequently in the middle of the night a summons
is flashed, and there must be no delay in replying ;
Commandant Billet not being a man to be trifled
with on matters connected with the service.

He rides long distances on horseback to inspect
the various southern posts and to see that all is
well ; and many a night has the startled guard seen
him arrive, having ridden over the mountains in
pitch darkness to make a visit of inspection. He
is ubiquitous, and of an astounding energy, only
allowing himself four hours for rest, then mounts
his horse once more, or goes to work at his writing-
table.

As an example of the Commandant's iron will,
one of the doctors told me that some months ago

METAMER AND MEDININ 231

he was attacked by fever, just at the time that the
General arrived to make an inspection. Notwith-
standing the fact that his temperature was at 104"*
Fahrenheit, Commandant Billet left his bed and
accompanied his superior officer on horseback round
all the outposts. When he returned his temperature
was still 104^

On his spirited horse he has covered prodigious
tracts of country in the south, often under very
trying conditions. Lately he rode over eighty miles
on a mountain track in five-and-twenty hours ; not
being met by the persons he expected, he took a
couple of hours rest beside his horse, lying lightly
clad in the cold night air, and then resumed his
journey.

He told me himself of a rather amusing adven-
ture. On a pitch-dark night he was riding home
to Medinin from Bir el Ahmer. When he had ridden
so long that he believed he must be near home, his
horse became restive and left the path. After some
time had elapsed, to his great delight he rode against
a telegraph post, for he knew that by keeping along
the telegraph line he should find his way home.
But, alas! when morning broke he was back again
at Bir el Ahmer, whence he had started ; to the great
astonishment of the soldiers, who evidently thought
he had returned to take them by surprise : he then
rode home.

232 CAVE DWELLERS

As in Algeria, the army in Tunisia has literally
paved the way to civilisation by making roads across
the mountains and over the plains.

But their work is far from confined to this alone ;
they plant trees and dig wells, and are soon followed
by telegraphic and postal officials, but above all by
the schoolmaster. Where the soldier has cut a way,
the schoolmaster can begin his work. If we call to
mind my little Ali we can best understand and value
his labours.

I called on the postmaster and the schoolmaster
of Medinin at the officers' club. They were energetic
young men whose work goes hand in hand with that
of the soldiers. There also I met the interpreter,
a perfect gentleman who spoke faultless French. A
tattooed mark on his forehead alone betrayed his
origin ; he was a Mohammedan and a married man.
Besides himself, only one other of the officers in
Medinin, a captain of cavalry, was married : he lived
with his wife within the Ksar.

CHAPTEE XIII

Southwards over the Plain to Tatuin

It was early morning on the 28th October ; the sun
was just rising, the horses were ready, and I swung
myself into the saddle to start on a day's march of a
little over thirty-two miles. Commandant Billet and
Lieutenant Henry accompanied me part of the way,
then bade me farewell and galloped off in a different
direction ; the gallant chief intending to join that
morning one of his companies then on the road to
the north.

The sun rose above the plain, and lit up the moun-
tains which encircle it to the eastward like an outlying
wall, and, beginning in the north, stretch along to
the south as far as the eye can reach. In front of
us rode a Spahi from the Bureau in his light blue
burnous, and behind, wrapped in his crimson cloak,

paced the trooper furnished by the Spain regiment.

Theirs are beautiful uniforms, but should be
seen in brilliant sunshine and with Africa's golden
sands as a background. I have seen these uniforms
in the streets of Paris in dull weather, and tliey were
disappointing.

233

234 CAVE DWELLERS

We had ridden long at foot's pace, and it was
time to push on. " Forward, forward " I shouted to
our leader, after taking off my burnous and laying
it before me on my saddle. My handsome brown
horse broke into a gallop. The trooper in front of
me rose in his saddle and stood in his stirrups, as
his horse " threw his head and his tail to the winds
and let his legs dance like drumsticks," as my friend
the " Jsegermester " at home used to say. The red
Spahi followed. My horse was eager to join the
others in front of him, but I held him in.

After a good long gallop we slackened again to
a foot's pace, and I ejaculated, " He pulls like the
deuce ! "

"Oh, sir, he thought a mare w^as leading."

" Nonsense ; can't he tell the difference ? "

" No, sir ; the Arabs always ride mares, therefore
stallions, when they see the broad back of an Arab
saddle, conclude that it is on a mare."

I observed here some of the small round mounds
I had seen elsewhere, and which may be either
graves or the remains of vanished dwellings.

A couple of hours later we descried, beyond the
mountains, a white spot on the horizon. This is a
Marabout tomb on the plain — not far from the well
of " Bir el Ahmcr."

The sun was very hot, but, rain having recently
fallen, the earth smelt fresh and pleasant.

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN 235

At long intervals we saw here and there people
at work, for the tribes had scattered in every direc-
tion to sow and plough. There, where at other
seasons flocks of antelopes are wont to gladden the
sportsman who roves over the barren plains, are now
gathered little bands of men and women to till the
ground rendered moist and fertile by Allah ; and
the smoke from their encampments may be seen
rising from all points of the compass.

From the Marabout's tomb the ground falls away
a little towards the south, and on the level, not far
ahead, we saw the square- walled enclosure of the
well with in one corner an old, low, squat tower,
against which was propped a house.

Soon we distinguished the little tentes d'ahri
pitched in straight lines, and, moving amongst them,
the soldiers.

We reached the well, having covered the twelve
miles in two hours and a half, and I found a fresh
horse and new escort awaiting me.

The company had arrived during the night. The
men had slept and cooked their food. Lieutenant
Adam and the regimental doctor, M. Cultin, had
ridden out to shoot on the neighbouring mountains,
so I went in quest of Lieutenants Coturier and
Druot, who greeted me with " Bon jour, camarade."

Whilst the horses were unsaddled, fed, and
watered, and the cook busied himself preparing

bieakikst ai a fire in an an^ie of the walL I was
re£re^L€»l with a eUs^ of wine.

The offif*!^' camp beds and canteens were con-
veved into a cool rcom in the house, and the tables
and chairs were arranged in the shade outside.

The walls of the fort, or rather the caravansarai,
are so low that one can see over them when seated
within the courtyard. It is not garrisoned, and is
inhabited onlv bv an old Arab, who strolled about
in an enormous straw hat. He had barlev to sell to
those who re^juired it, and presided with much pride
over a large register, in which the '" Chefs de Detach-
ments " have to note the numliers encamped at the
well Moreover, it is his dutv to take care that the
well is not damaged or misused by the Arabs who
wander over the plain, and who, under certain con-
ditions, are allowed access to the enclosure. His
straw hat interested me greatly, and with some little
difficulty I succeeded in purchasing it from him.

Lieutenant Coturier and I took a walk on the
plain. Just outside tlie fort were some miserable
huts })uilt of bnin(*hes and straw, where we saw an
an(;ient (rrone, probably the wife of the old Arab,
fussing about her hearth. Near the huts were three
two-wheeled carts all ready laden and with the
horses in the shafts. In the shade beneath them
some Europeans and Arabs lay and dozed, whilst
the horses and mules closed their eyes and slept in

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN 237

their harness, the flies buzzing about them in the
intense heat.

Farther on, we found on the plain two women
and a man busy ploughing. To two of the ploughs
were yoked camels, and to the third a mule.

Both the women were very lightly clad on ac-
count of the heat. The younger was exquisite in
her grace as she paced, goad in hand, behind the
plough, and by the movements of her arms revealed
her perfectly formed figure. From afar we could
see her bracelets and anklets glittering in the sun.

We stood and watched them awhile until, say-
ing " En route, mon ami," my friend took my arm
and we sauntered on over the heated plain, where
through refraction, distant objects, even though small,
appeared to be in constant leaping movement.

We turned towards the blue mountains, in hopes
of catching sight of the sportsmen, for breakfast time
drew near, but no one was in sight ; so we strolled
back to the fort, and lying on the camp beds dozed
the time away.

It was nearly eleven o'clock before we heard the
riders arrive. Lieutenant Adam had shot some
partridges, and the doctor a hare, which hung from
their saddles.

In the meantime breakfast had been prepared,
and the table was laden with good things.

Before we sat down, the doctor examined a

238 CAVE DWELLERS

number of sick men, of whom some hobbled up
unassisted ; others were carried on their comrades'
backs. Not a few were really unfit to march, but
many were shamming.

The African Light Brigade — the Zephyrs — is
composed of men who, through misconduct and
frequent punishment, are removed from their regi-
ments in France to serve the remainder of their
time in Africa.

The heterogeneous troops that form the Foreign
Legion can, to a certain extent, be moulded into a
united body, imbued with a strong esprit de corps —
thanks partly to stern discipline, and also to the fact
of the Legion being aware that it has burnt its ships ;
but the case of the Light Brigade is quite different.

The men enter it on account of offences com-
mitted in other localities, but they retain their evil
propensities, and indeed it would not be easy for
them to improve while forced to associate with so
many bad characters of every variety : fear alone
keeps them straight.

It is true that a " Zephyr," if he conduct himself
well for a certain length of time, may be sent home
to his division, but this rarely occurs. In fact, he
may even be promoted in the Zephyr Brigade itself,
but this is yet more rare.

A French officer told me that the difference
between a soldier of the Legion and a Zephyr was,

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN 239

that a Legionary, even though he were a thief,
would be forced to cease from being one, but a
Zephyr, if he were not a thief, would certainly
learn to be one.

In old days the Zephyrs fought well in many
a close action, and their behaviour in time of war
has often been brilliant, but in time of peace they
are of little worth.

It follows that the commanding officers must be
of the best — for it is sharp work for the chiefs.
For that matter all the officers in Algeria and
Tunisia are especially selected. Many lieutenants
have year after year sought in vain to be sent on
service with the troops in Africa, whilst others
speedily obtain this privilege. Every year's service
there counts as double, both as regards pension
and decorations.

I have seen lieutenants wearing the Legion of
Honour solely because they had had sufficient
length of service in Africa, whilst a young chef
de bataillon, newly arrived from France where
he had served during all the earlier portion of
his career, had earned no decoration.

Indeed, it is really surprising that an officer who
serves in Algiers or Oran should thereby gain so
many advantages over another who is stationed in
a little provincial town in France. As regards
Tunisia it is intelligible, many parts, of the country

240 CAVE DWELLERS

being unhealthy, and the heat ruining the nerves
and being the cause of mental strain : but in Algiers
— a bit of Paris !

My new escort, sent from Tatuin, was ready, and
the hot midday hours being past I said farewell
until the morrow.

There still remained between four and five
miles to cover, and we might not loiter on the
way; so we pressed on, alternately walking and
cantering, keeping close to the mountains on our
right.

Half-way between Tatuin and Bir el Ahmer we
passed some soldiers who were busy digging a well.
They had pitched a little tent, and provisions and
water were sent them occasionally. Raising them-
selves from their work they saluted us as we
passed.

Presently mountains appeared in the south and
south-east, and on the summit of one on our front
we distinguished the signal station of Tatuin. At
the foot of this mountain we passed some palm
trees, and then turned into the valley. This is
full of palms, and on the southern side lay a little
Ksar, similar to those with which we had already
made acquaintance at Metamer and Medinin.

At a little distance, but nearer the oasis and on
the slope, stand the military buildings.

As we rode towards the Bureau we met a

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN 241

couple of natives. " Are the Tuareg still here ? "
I asked.

" No, they have probably left ; they came to buy
corn, but there was none to be had, so they went
away."

Just as the sun set I dismounted, and saluted a
group of officers who awaited me.

The whitewashed walls of the two rooms into
which I was shown were hung round with weapons,
implements of the chase, and ethnographical objects
collected from the Tuareg. It was a typical lieu-
tenant's quarter ; the owner was in France on leave,
and in his absence his comrades had placed his
rooms at my disposal.

Captain Beranger, who was to be relieved the
day but one following, invited me to dine at the
little mess where the infantry officers, the post-
master of the town — young Cavaignac, a descendant
of the celebrated general — and an officer of engineers
were to dine.

After dinner we spent our evening with other

officers at the casino. There I met Ben Jad, an

old native lieutenant of Spahis, with a handsome

Arab face, and wearing the Cross of the Legion

of Honour on his breast. He promised me a good

horse for the morrow when I took my way to

Duirat, the southernmost village of Tunisia. I

met also the interpreter and the lieutenant of the
16

242 CAVE DWELLERS

Bureau and Dr. Renaud, their medical man, who
talked with me about the country, and promised
to do what he could to get hold of some of the
Tuareg, whom I so longed to see ; but of this he
told me there was little hope.

CHAPTER XIV

DUIRAT

The route to the south from Tatuin leads through a
valley. At first we traversed the oasis, riding under
the shade of the palm trees, then followed the course
of the dried-up river bed in the bottom of the valley.

On the top of a hill to our left were a couple of
villages. To the right were other dwellings, some
of which were caves ; others were white houses with
vaulted roofs.

An hour later we saw on a height to the east-
ward the fortress of Beni Barka. This is a village
of narrow streets enclosed within a wall. The houses
are similar to those of other African villages.

Yet a little farther on we passed another village,
which was built in a square, and composed of the
same oblong vaulted buildings we had seen at
Medinin and Metamer ; it also appeared to be
fortified.

We then emerged on an open golden -yellow
plain that rose gradually to the left, a solitary
steep mountain lying to the south. To the west
also was a large group of magnificent, precipitous

243

544 CAVE DWELLERS

mountains ; behind these we were to find Duirat,
but to reach it we had to go round the mountain
we saw to the south.

When, later, we approached this mountain, we
found the ground completely covered with every
kind and shape of rocks and stones; never have I
seen elsewhere such a rocky waste.

We wheeled round outside this beautiful rocky
region, picking our way very carefully lest our
horses' legs should be injured. On the steep
slope, broken rocks of every size were tightly
packed together, and, at the very top, great
beetling crags seemed prepared to plunge down
the precipice.

On the southern side of this stony waste, and
standing away from the rocky range, were a few
tall cones of truncated form. To make a short
cut I rode between them and the mountain itself,
but had to proceed very cautiously, as the ground
was terribly rough.

The sun was frightfully hot ; not a breath of wind
stirred as we plodded along, my Spahis chanting now
and then a monotonous song. Beyond us, the plain
appeared to quiver in the glare of the sun, reflected
from a bright, white, gleaming surface, which last
appeared to be a lake, but was only a " shott,"
where the water that had flowed from the heights
during the rainy season rose in vapour.

DUIRAT 245

I could not conceive whence came the sound that
(luring some few minutes had reached my ear. I
looked for a cause, but my eyes detected nothing.

At lust I saw, far away in the shade under the
overhanging cliffs of an isolated peak, some dull,
dark spots and dots, and amongst them made out

the indistinct outline of a female figure — evidently
a shepherdess with her goats. As we approached,
her song rose and fell clear and ringing in the pure
air.

We now entered the valley, and turned in a
north-westerly direction. Before us lay Duirat, a
grey mountain, shaped like a sugar-loaf

At first it was impossible to distinguish any

246 CAVE DWELLERS

dwellings, but after we had crossed the valley and
the bed of a stream, and had reached rising ground,
we made out clearly an old castle on the summit.
Below it, at different heights along the path that
wound upwards, we saw houses, and in one place,
amongst or behind these, we caught a glimpse of
dark cavities, which proved to be entrances to caves
in the mountain side. These caves consist of several
vaulted chambers, access to which is through a small
doorway. The actual chambers resemble in every
respect those of the Matmata. As a rule, they do
not suffice for the requirements of a family ; an
ordinary house with a flat roof is therefore built
in front of them on the terraced cliff*. Through
the house a passage leads straight into the cave,
so that anyone outside can see right through the
house, over the little courtyard, and into the door-
way of the cave.

There are doors to most of the dwellings, but,
as these cannot be constructed of palmwood, the
materials have to be brought from a great distance ;
a costly undertaking, and the cause of many
poor wretches living doorless and exposed to the
elements.

I went in to see the Khalifa, an exceptionally
clever and amiable man, to whom I brought greet-
ings from Drummond Hay, who had visited him
during his tour.

DUIRAT 247

As I had no interpreter with me, our conversation
was limited. I managed to make out his replies to
my questions, but it took time.

The breakfast I had brought with me I ate in
company with the Khalifa, the Sheikh, and another
man. The preserved meats and the delicate bread
especially delighted them. In return they oflfered
me kus-kus, eggs, and black bread.

The Khalifa and the Sheikh wrote their names in
Arabic in my sketch-book, that I might carry away
a memento of them ; in return I presented them
with my visiting-card, which was put away with
great care to be exhibited to future travellers.

I inquired about Hamed-ben-Amar's relatives,
but at the time none were at home.

On the whole I saw very few people at Duirat.
The inhabitants were probably away, occupied in
agriculture, as was the case in other villages.

The Khalifa spoke much of Drummond Hay, who
had evidently made an ineffaceable impression on
him. From him I learnt that the latter had scaled
the mountain, visited a spring in the valley, and
had afterwards galloped to Shenini, a village on the
summit of a neighbourino: mountain.

I am convinced that the secret of the success of
the English Representative amongst the southern
tribes — for it was not the first time I had heard his
name mentioned in these parts — originates as much

248

CAVE DWELLERS

from his having inherited his father's remarkable
insight into the manner of thought of the Moslem,
as from the fact that he speaks Arabic like a
native. Again, he has inherited his father's strong,
fearless nature, and lastly — he is an Englishman.

It was near noon, but I had not time to wait till
later, so in the intense heat, and guided by a young

Arab, I clambered up to the old and now forsaken
town on the top of the mountain.

The walls, built of large slabs mingled with
smaller stones, completely enclose the town on
every side, and stand from seven to nine feet
high, rendering it absolutely inaccessible to an
enemy.

The interior can only be penetrated by climbing

DUIRAT 249

a covered way which, ascending higher and higher,
leads to a passage so low and narrow that one must
creep in on all fours. Then on till, with many turn-
ings through bewildering chambers and passages, the
uppermost houses are reached, and thence the streets,
which are no wider than a man's breadth.

Now all lies in ruins, and one can climb over
the crumbling walls and up on to the few flat
roofs which still hold together, but are dangerous
footing.

From the roofs I could see over mountain and
vale to the plain, and the blue peaks on the
southern horizon.

Looking far down the precipice at my feet, I
saw, through the spreading smoke that floated
upwards from the fires on their hearths, the
women moving in the courts of their dwellings.
Now and then the muffled sound of their voices
reached me. A man's voice shouting, however,
sounded almost as if close to my ear. It must
have been an echo which was the cause of my
hearing it so distinctly.

How wearisome life must have been in this
little town, so near the sky. To the women
especially, who had to fetch water daily from
the valley, it must have been very hard. One
can but admire the folk who endured existence
in such a spot. The very difficulties of their

250 CAVE DWELLERS

mode of life made their bodies supple, their
minds keen and vigorous.

Sliding down through the dark passages we
cmcrf]:ed once more on the cliff.

By throwing back the upper part of my body,
and seeking foothold with my legs, whilst I
supported myself by my arms, I succeeded in
reaching without mishap the uppermost tier of
buildings. Here stands the mosque, a picturesque
little building, in the courtyard of which is a
minaret.

I began to make a sketch of this. My guide
w^as down on me in a moment. A two-franc piece
did its work, and we went within.

The surrounding wall formed a low arcade. I
scanned the view over this down to the slope below ;
investigated everything, and found a cistern in
the middle of the courtyard. Pulling at a cord
attached to the cistern, I discovered that to the
end of it was fastened a drinking-cup, made of
the horn of a mouflon. Whilst examining this 1
heard a loud yell behind me, and siiw an old man
come up out of a cave, shouting and shaking his
fist at me. Afy guide went to meet him, evidently
intending to try and pacify him, but the old fellow
persisted in screaming and threatening. Again 1
put my hand in my i)()ckct, with as good a result
as before.

The Khalifa and the Sheikh awaited me in their
dwelling, and after a little conversation with tliem,
and a stroll id their company through the lanes,
and to visit some of the dwellings, I ordered the
horses to be saddled.

As I set foot in the stirrup, the Khalifa came

ited

1^

1^^^^^

i^-^^ c^^^H

r BESFRT— TENT O

forward with a mouflon horn, which he begged
me to accept. It was the same that I had seen
in the mosque. My guide had evidently told
talcs out of school.

When we hud descended into the valley I
turned and looked up. Near the Khalifa's house
stood some white burnous-clad figures. I waved

252 CAVE DWELLERS

a farewell, and saw a couple of arms flourished in
reply.

So, by the same path, we rode back to Tatuin.
The goats on the mountains were now grazing
amongst the rocks.

My horse was fidgety, and the flies worrying
him made him constantly toss his head. I was
careless, and he struck me a blow on the right
hand, causing it to swell, and compelling me to
carry it in a sling ; and thus I had to ride for
several days.

After riding hard for full five hours, we reached
Tatuin a little before sunset. Lieutenant Adam
had arrived there with his company, and a great
surprise also awaited me.

CHAPTER XV

The Tuareg

I DISMOUNTED at the ofl&ce of the Intelligence
Department. In the archway a number of burnous-
clad men waited to be admitted into the office,
where the interpreter, M. Grosset - Grange, and
Lieutenant Donau were at work.

My eyes roved over the crowd of waiting men,
who hailed from far and near. They were fine
types, all wrapped in white or grey cloaks. Then
I started, for on the stone bench sat — yes, by
Jove! — two stalwart figures, with black kerchiefs
wound round about their faces, so that only their
fine eyes were visible, most of the nose and a
little of the forehead being covered. Their light
brown complexions surprised me.

Below their white garments appeared bare legs
and sandalled feet, and, if I am not mistaken, they
wore light blue trousers. A tuft of black hair
protruded above the dark head - covering. They
were evidently Tuareg.

Lieutenant Donau came out to receive me.
Pointing to the two men, I ejaculated, "Tuareg?"

258

CAVE DWELLERS

" Yos, certainly," he said with a smile.
I seated myself on a bench opposite to them,
while Donau fetched the interpreter, so that be-

tween them they might interrogate the Tuareg.
At first I could not realise that I indeed sat
peiicefully face to face with the dreaded sons of

THE TUAREG 255

the desert, and that I should have the luck to
take home for our National Museum their costume
and equipment. It seemed too good to be true.

"Do you think I shall be able to buy their
clothes?" I asked the interpreter.

"It will be very difficult to manage," he re-
plied. "The Tuareg are suspicious, and will not
understand that anyone would sooner buy their
old rags than fine clothes, such as you wear.
Besides, similar costumes are not to be had here,
and they will not like to return home in ordinary
Arab dress."

" Very well, tell them I am a stranger from
a distant country, who has come here to see
whether my people may not be of the same origin
as theirs. Tell them I should be glad if I could
take their costume with me to show to my country-
men. I will pay for them more than their value,
or, if they will not take money for them, I will
undertake to send them corn l)y caravan from
Gab^s, for I know that they have been unable to
buy any here."

The interpreter then began the lengthy and
tough transaction.

It then transpired that one of the two, Akhemed-
uld-Bai, spoke Arabic, but not so his compatriot,
Mohammed - ben - Mohammed. The conversation
therefore took time.

256 CAVE DWELLERS

First I addressed the interpreter in French, he
then translated what I had said into Arabic for
Akhemed, who again repeated it in the Berber
language to Mohammed.

After the matter had been thoroughly discussed
by the paii, the reply was returned in the same way.

They informed us that they belonged to the
"Foghass" section of the Azgu tribe of Tuareg.
But though the name of Akhemed - uld - Bai had
the true Tuareg ring, as much could hardly be
said for his companion's patronymic. Their proper
home was on the farther side of Rhadam^s.

When they learnt that I was anxious to become
the possessor of their property, both of them stared
at me long and fixedly, after which they consulted
together for a while. Then Akhemed began to
divest himself of his white "Tuat" burnous, for
which we bargained. As I gave him what he
asked, his other garments soon followed, and bit
by bit he stripped himself, until he was actually
clothed in nothing but a scanty shirt, or under-
tunic, and the black veil, of which the lower part
concealed his mouth.

A Tuareg never exposes his mouth before others
so long as he can avoid doing so; it would be a
breach of propriety.

But in the presence of foreigners they had
evidently less regard for decorum than they would

THE TUAREG 257

have had before their own people. Now and then
Akhemed, as he talked, dragged the kerchief away
from the lower part of his face, and I saw the hand-
some well-formed beardless mouth and white teeth.
Whether he were shaved I know not ; but it is said
that the Tuareg do not care for beards, and there-
fore shave.

When he rose to take off his clothes, his fine
muscular form towered above all those present ; a
truly herculean specimen, he was some six feet high,
sparely but splendidly built.

His costume was as follows : —

A shirt-like under-tunic (akhebail), above it a
grey patterned tunic with short white sleeves that
came from the Sudan (taiden).

Trousers, which were wide at the top and
narrow below ; they reached half-way down the calf
(kortebba).

Sandals (ghetimen) of tooled leather, with
crossed latchets that passed between the toes and
fastened round the ankle.

A long, narrow black veil, used to enwrap the

bead. This veil is furnished in two places with a

broad flap ; one servos to cover the forehead, the

other the lower part of the face. The crown of the

head is left bare, and shows above the veil a black

tuft of hair (tadilmus). Outside the veil a loug

piece of white material is rolled turban-wise, but so
17

258 CAVE DWELLERS

arranged that the veil shows both above and beneath
it (ash shash).

Over this dress is worn an ordinary light wrap,
a "haik " from Tuat (kheiki).

The costume was completed by three square
amulet cases (tira) made of tin, and apparently
fashioned out of old sardine boxes. They hung by
leathern strings on the man's breast and outside his
clothes.

Supposing that these cases contained inscriptions
in the Berber language, I was very anxious to get
possession of them. But all my endeavours in this
respect were unsuccessful. Akhemed would not
part with them. lie declared that to him they
were worth more than the value of a camel. He
had bought them from a Marabout, they protected
him from danger and misfortune, and since he had
possessed them no ill had befallen him.

" Then sell me the cord and the cases and keep
your amulet."

For a high price he agreed to this, but I could
not get permission to see the contents. Next morn-
ing he brought and handed over to me an unsoldered
case.

When there was no more to be bought from
tliis man, I turned to his companion.

His costume differed little from the other, so I
did not trouble about it, but on the wrist of his

THE TUAREG 259

left hand was an embroidered leather ring, and the
same hand grasped the hilt of a dagger (tilek).

The Tuareg always carry one of these in the
left sleeve, so disposed that the point is turned up
the sleeve, whilst the sheath lies along under the
forearm, and is secured by a sewn band which is
slipped over the wrist. The handle of the dagger
is cross-shaped and bound with brass wire. The
dagger is therefore, very evidently and literally,
handy.

I bought it and a large leather bag (agherid),
made apparently of antelope or gazelle hide.
Through holes on the edges of the bag were drawn
leather thongs, which again were made fast with a
very peculiar iron lock. This is the only lockfast
receptacle owned by the Tuareg, for they rarely
possess even a chest (senduk), as do the Arabs.

Of other weapons they had none, though the
Tuareg generally carry spears, but rarely swords,
bows and arrows, or shields.

Next I bought one of their light smart saddles
for riding the dromedary (mehari). The saddle has
a broad cantle at the back, and that in front, though
narrower, is also high and terminates in a cross.

The cross is often found in Tuareg ornaments,
and, as I show by an illustration in my book called
Algiers and the Sahara, is supposed to be a relic of
the time when this people were Christians and

26o CAVE DWELLERS

inhabited the more northern regions whence they
were driven by the Arabs.

All the wearing apparel that I purchased w^as,
according to the vendors' account, manufactured by
Tuareg or brought from the Sudan.

The price of each article was named in piastres,
and the interpreter having added up the total, I paid
in francs, without the Tuareg overlooking the
account, their trust in the interpreter being so
entire. A sign of their confidence in the French.

M. Grosset - Grange told me that these two
Tuareg examined all that was novel to them just
like children. That when they entered his room
they at first stood dumfoundered, then touched and
examined everything. The system by which the
window was closed and bolted was carefully in-
vestigated, and pleased them much. The handle of
the bolt chanced to be decorated with the representa-
tion of a man's head, and the Tuareg naively asked,
" Is that your father ? "

Commandant Billet told me many amusing
anecdotes of these children of nature, who are so
sober and abstemious in their daily life, and who
can subsist for days in the desert almost without
food.

Once a " Targui " (the singular of Tuareg)
happened to come to him at one of the stations.
" Are you hungry ? " asked the commandant.

THE TUAREG 261

Yes, it was long since he had tasted food ; so an
enormous quantity was set before him, enough to
have satisfied six or seven ordinary folk. When he
had consumed all this he went to see a captain, by
whom he was as generously treated. One might
have supposed that he would then be satisfied ; but
no, half an hour later the insatiable son of the
desert called on a third official, and again complained
bitterly of hunger, and was fed with a couple of
dishes of " kus-kus.''

It is inconceivable how any one man could
swallow so much food, but probably it had never
before fallen to his lot to fully satisfy his appetite.

Apparently the Tuareg are at present anxious to
keep on friendly terms with the French. On several
occasions small caravans have travelled as far as the
southern stations of Tunisia, most of them certainly
with a view to trade, mais enfin, it is always a move
in the right direction, which, prudently encouraged,
may lead farther.

It would be to the signal advantage of the
French that the old caravan road to the Sahara
should be reopened, so that traffic from Rhadam^s
could proceed direct to Gab^s or other towns of
Tunisia, instead of, as now, vtd Tripoli. The chief
impediment at present lies in the fact that the
caravans, not being permitted to carry slaves, are
not profitable. The baskets, leather goods, weapons.

363 CAVE DWELLERS

etc., which the last caravans brought with them —
though ID small quantities — were disposed of with
difficulty in Tatuiu and Medinin, which will not
tend to induce them to make another trial.

No ; that traffic through the Sahara may be
remunerative, slavery is essential. In fact, so long

as slavery continues to flourish in Tripoli, so lonjif
will the stream of trade flow that way.

Neither does slavery appear so terrible at close
quarters as it does when read of in heartrending
romances in the style of Uncle Tom's Cabin. The
truth is, that slaves are well treated everywhei-e in
the East, so well that even if given their freedom.

THE TUAREG 263

as they were by decree in Tunisia, they, as a rule,
remain in their master's house.

The transport across the desert is, indeed, full of
horrors, but when once arrived at their destination
the slaves do not suffer from want — c^uite otherwise.

Amongst the caravans that came to Tatuin in
1893 was one in charge of two nephews of Aissa,
the Tuareg Sheikh who rules over the tribe of
" Imaughasat." ^

The elder of these, named Uan Titi, brought a
letter to the officer in command of the military
station at Tatuin, in which he reclaimed several
camels and a negress robbed from the Tuareg by
the tribe of Uderma.

As it was politic to show a friendly disposition,
the camels were forthcoming at once, though they
were probably bought ; but it was otherwise with
regard to the negress, who was a cause of great
perplexity.

According to law, every slave is free who sets
foot on territory under French control, consequently
nothing could be done.

That the Tuareg were afraid of again coming
to blows with the tribe of Uderma, is evident from
the fact that the Tuareg Sheikh had written to the
Khalifa of Duirat to beg him to take care that the

' Correspondence in the Paris newspaper, the Journal des Dthats of 5th
September 1893.

264 CAVE DWELLERS

emissaries went no farther north than Tatuin, and
had also taken the precaution of ascertaining whether
absolute peace prevailed in Uderma.

Uan Titi spoke of the latest French explorers,
Foureau and M^ry, who travelled last winter in the
Sahara. He had conducted the fii'st named, who,
however, had not reached Rhadames. M^ry had
spent some time with the Azgu tribe from whom
the Imaughasat had then separated themselves.
They now camp together and are fairly united
under their Sheikh Aissa, but they still have some
"duars" near **Rliat."

According to Uan Titi's account, the highroads
in the Sahara pass Fezzan, Rhadames, and Tuat.
That by Rhadames may be - considered the most
important.

The Tuareg, amongst whom perfect peace reigns
at present, come to Rhadames from the southern
regions to escort the caravans and to supply camels
for hire.

It is rare, however, for them to go farther than
Tripoli or than Southern Tunisia.

The Turks in Tripoli refuse, of course, to acknow-
ledge Frencli rule in Tunisia ; and as the people of
Rhadamds are mainly Berbers under Turkish ad-
ministration, these do all in their power to destroy
the little trade there is with the French territories of
Duirat, Tatuin, Mediniu, and beyond them to Gabds.

THE TUAREG 265

For the moment the Tuareg place no obstacles
in the way of persons who venture to travel from
the Duirat mountains through the desert to Rha-
dam^s ; so the route is open, but no one who is
supposed to have the slightest relations with the
French is allowed to enter the oasis.

The traveller who desires to visit this town, which
in the time of the Romans had constant intercourse
with the coast, must start from Tripoli ; if he has
letters of recommendation from the authorities there,
he is sure to be admitted ; the journey on camel
back is wearisome and even distressing through the
heat and lack of water, but of danger there is none —
for the present — the Tuareg not being camped by
the roads in any appreciable numbers.

The French authorities have done all they could
to establish peaceful relations with Rhadam^s and
to explore the southern frontier. Officers have
reconnoitered the country from the southern moun-
tains to far into the desert. Commandant Billet in
person has ridden through the mountains as far as
the Tunisian frontier. On one of these expeditions
he visited the ruins of a very ancient village in the
mountains, known as " Ksar Uni," which lies eighty
miles south of Tatuin.

An interpreter who spoke Arabic like a native,
and who was, further, a Mohammedan, was sent to
the desert not long since to endeavour to penetrate

A

266 CAVE DWELLERS

as far as Rhadam^s. His mission failed entirely.
He was robbed, imprisoned in Rhadam^s, and sent
to Tripoli, from whence, after much difficult negotia-
tion, his release was obtained.

West of the Matmata mountains and south of
the belt of shotts is a steppe where are found a
number of small wells, but south again of this and
as far as Rhadam^s is an almost waterless desert,
barren and waste and very dangerous to cross. A
few earlier travellers may possibly have passed
through it, but in March and February of this year
the desert was traversed by tw^o French officers,
under such marvellous conditions that I cannot
refrain from giving an account of their journey,
exactly as I heard it related by Major Gausset in
Gab(5s.

Lieutenant Dumas of the Spahis (now captain of
the 6th Chasseurs at Oran), and Lieutenant Caze-
majou of the Engineers, both courageous and
determined men, who feared neither exposure to the
elements nor the sufferings of hunger and thirst,
determined on trying to make their way secretly
from Nafta, l)y the shott and through the desert, to
Rhadame^s. Well aware that a request for permis-
sion to travel during the difficulties in connection
with the frontier would be refused by their superiors,
they only asked for leave to take a trip to Algiers.
This was granted without suspicion being aroused.

THE TUAREG 267

and, accompanied by a guide, they disappeared in the
desert, both in Arab dress and mounted on camels.

After a dangerous and fatiguing ride they drew
near to Rhadam^s, and were already rejoicing over
the happy termination of their journey ; but no
sooner had they reached the gates than they were
driven off like dogs, their lives were menaced, and
they were compelled to retreat.

Their coming had been announced by some
Marabout whose kubba they had passed shortly
before arriving at the town.

There was nothing to be done but to return as
quickly as possible, which they did ; but as they
thought it possible that they might be pursued
and attacked on their homeward way, they took
another route, where water was very scarce, and with
which none of them were acquainted.

After incredible exertions and having suffered
much from hunger and thirst — they were reduced at
the last to a little chocolate with which to allay the
pangs of hunger — they succeeded in reaching home.

Their journey was, of course, to a great extent a
failure, but they had reconnoitered an unknown
country and proved themselves to be a couple of
exceptionally energetic, brave men. They resumed
their duty in silence, but a rumour of their exploit
leaked out and reached the ear of the General. He
demanded an explanation, with the result that

268 CAVE DWELLERS

they received a slight official reprimand — soon
shaken off.

Since Duveyrier undertook his memorable
journey, of which the brilliant results are related in
his book, Les Toiiaregs du Nord, no one probably
has dedicated himself so entirely to a desert life as
Cornitz, a young Swiss, of whom the officers in the
south spoke in the highest terms.

This man, who appears to be a thinker and
philosopher of no mean order, came for the first
time to Southern Tunisia some years ago, in order
to study the mode of life and opinions of the
Bedouins. He was so charmed with their nomad
existence that he returned every year for three
years. He dressed as they did, and lived amongst
them in the desert, and, under equal conditions,
shared in the joys and sorrows of their tent life,
their hunts and their boundless horizon. But the
time came when even this did not satisfy him, so he
purchased palm trees, a house and a herd, and
settled down in the town of Duz to the west of the
Matmata and south of the shotts.

To enable him to take long journeys to the south,
he bought two "mehari" (chameaux coureurs) and
practised the difficult art of riding them. After
eight days' hard exertion he could ride as well as any
" Targui."

He then travelled with his Hocks, or alone, in the

THE TUAREG 269

south as far as Rhadam^s, but neither was he able
to gain admittance to that town. While on this
journey he completed the French map.

Each year, after a visit home, he returned. The
last time, in May 1893, that he travelled home he
passed through Gab^s, where he was struck down
with fever and was very ill. The French oflBcers
begged him to go into the military hospital, but he
declined their offers and started for the north.
During my stay in the south I was told that he had
written to one of the Khalifas that he would soon
return to visit his herds, left in charge of an Arab,
and to again resume his life in the desert.

" II est un pen original, mais trfes intelligent,"
the officers at Gab^s said of him.

In truth, there are many who are attracted by
the free life that is led under tents, where no one
need fear troubling his neighbour, since space is
unlimited.

If one place is unpleasing, you move to another
— laying your tents on camels and vaulting into the
saddle, you drive your flocks and herds onwards,
ever onwards, for the horizon has no limit.

Whilst dwelling on the men who rove in the
alluring, mysterious desert, which has engulfed so
many in its deadly embrace, my thoughts turn to an
evening at Gabes, when, after my return from the
south I sat in the guest-room of the " Hotel de

270 CAVE DWELLERS

rOi.sis"' an<l refreshed mvself after mv exhaustiris:
ride.

The landlord. IL Saissv. a mau of a)x)ut fiftv,
was setting in order the tables, after the guests, who
were mostly officers, had left. I was the only one
who remained and trilled ^iih a cigar and a glass
of l.ieer to pass away the time before retiring to bed.
I was absorbed in thoucrht and lone: remained so
— so long, indeed, that M. Saissy probably concluded
it was time to turn in, for he approached me and
l>ecran a conversation by way of rousing me from
my reverie, with, " Have you had a pleasant journey,
Sir I

I replied in the affirmative, and gave him a
sketch of mv travels and described the Matmata
mountains — not a little vain, I confess, of my
expedition. " Have you ever been there ? " I asked
in conclusion.

*' No, I have not," he replied. " I came here some
years ago with the regiment which I followed as
sutler, and, as the officers could not find a place
where they could dine, they proposed that I should
eater for them. This my wife and I agreed to do.
Bv deorrees we oro^anised this hotel, but to make it
pay we have to be careful, and we cannot leave it ;
since our arrival at Gabes I have positively only
l>eeu twice absent."

Good heavens ! thought I, how dull never to

THE TUAREG 271

have a change and look about one a bit ; but I said,
" You ought some day to go south ; it would interest
you, for instance, to meet the Tuareg of the west at
Tatuin. I had the luck to be there just when two
arrived, whose equipments I bought."

" Ah, those may be the same that I once saw."

'* Indeed, and when ? "

" Ah, yes — it was a long time ago ; I was quite
young then, and the love of travel drew me away
from home. I do not remember how it came about,
but eventually I started with two companions to
shoot ostriches in the Sahara — in those days it was
not so difficult to penetrate there. We hunted with
the Tuareg."

" Did you venture far ? "

"Yes, I do not exactly know how far, but
certainly to the other side of Tuat. The natives
were a peaceful people, and we were never at enmity
with them. Our hunting was successful, and we
made money for our employer.

" Once I was on the point of going there again
with Dr. Nachtigall, but something intervened, and
to my bitter regret I could not leave — for I have
always had a longing for that sort of life. It was
very different from slaving as we do now, my wife
and I ; for it is not easy to please everyone — no,
indeed ! But to return to those days. You see, I
have been acquainted with many of the well-known

>

272 CAVE DWELLERS

travellers. Most of them behave badly — for they
do not respect the natives. Some rely on force —
which is a mistake — it is always best to be unarmed.
If ever I should venture there again, I would take a
stick in my hand and naught else.

" Miss Tinn^ I knew well. She would not listen
to good advice and was murdered. Good heavens I
she needed only to ask the chief of the Tuareg for a
safe conduct and all would have been well, but she
would not wait till the matter could be arranged,
believing that she could safely penetrate farther with
the protection she had.

" No — believe me ; it is eas)' enough to push
one's way forward, but one must avoid offending the
natives.

"There was another traveller w^ho deserved to
have been slain also — but escaped. He simply stole
cattle when he required them."

We conversed long, and I gathered much in-
formation with many interesting details, as old
recollections were recounted by him as they came
back to his mind.

Saissy's wife joined us, and we sat together and
discussed a glass of wine. Saissy promised me then
to note down his recollections, which are to be
forwarded to me, and I hope to be able to publish
them later ; for the present I confine myself to what
1 have already mentioned.

THE TUAREG 273

On my referring to the great desire I had to visit
Rhadam^s some future year — ** Take me with you/'
l)urst from M. Saissy. ** I am in earnest; pay me only
sufficient to enable my wife to live in comfort in my
absence, and I will accompany you. You may be
assured that I should be of use to you."

'* From Tripoli ? " I asked.

" Of course from Tripoli."

"Nous verrons, M. Saissy." And so we went
to bed.

When I left, a couple of days later, Saissy came
to me and gave me his portrait, saying —

" You will let me know when you have come to
a decision."

18

CHAPTER XVI

Back to Tunis

In the course of the night a telegram arrived, order-
ing Dr. Cultin to return with me next day to
Medinin, as his colleague had been suddenly seized
with fever and was very ill.

We were a little late in starting, and the sun was
scorching hot. Followed by our two Spahis and a
led horse, which bore my purchases from the Tuareg,
we hurried homewards.

After a halt near Bir el Ahmer, where we break-
fasted, and where a fresh horse awaited me, our pro-
gress was rapid.

But it was after niglitfall when we reached
Medinin. Outside the camp we met the lieutenant
of the Spahis, who said that the doctor was worse,
and was about to be sent in a carriage to Gab^s.

Dr. Cultin hurried away to his sick comrade, and
I dismounted at the quarters of the commandant,
who came galloping in to receive me, and invited me
to a splendid dinner with some of the officers.

I need scarcely mention that I expressed my
thanks in the warmest terms for the brilliant recep-

274

BACK TO TUNIS 275

tion I had received, and for my memorable trip to
the southernmost military stations.

I was offered a horse for an expedition to Zarsis
and the island of Jerba, but had to decline with
many thanks, as my time was limited.

After a comfortable breakfast with the infantry
officers, I bade my friends farewell before the com-
mandant's house, and, waving my hat in a final
salute, rode off to Gab^s.

Commandant Billet accompanied me nearly as
far as Metamer, where we parted.

"Should you ever go to Rhadam^s by way of
Tripoli and return by this route, you would be
heartily welcome, and this would certainly be your
best way home," said the commandant.

I replied that should the journey ever be at-
tempted by me, Medinin would have a great attrac-
tion for me, and thanked him heartily for all his
kindness.

Then I rode with my Spahi towards the camp at
Metamer, where the lieutenant on guard came out
and invited me in.

After a short halt, I continued in a north-westerly
direction along the foot of the mountain of the
signal station, and thence by a hilly country north ;
the Matmata mountains lying to the west of us, and
the plain to the east.

On both the plain and the hills I saw ruined

276 CAVE DWELLERS

Roman remains. We also passed a spot where a few
soldiers were encamped for the pm'pose of digging a
well, and as we ascended a hill saw a vehicle come
swinging towards us. Before it rode a red Spahi,
behind it another. The carriage was a heavy box
on four wheels, and had an awning over it ; it was
drawn by four mules, and two soldiers acted as
postillions. From within peeped a woman's face. It
was a captain s wife who had taken advantage of
the opportunity of going vid Medinin to visit her
husband at Zarsis — the carriage being on its way
to fetch the sick doctor.

It was nearly sunset, and I urged on my horse to
avoid arriving late at the little caravansarai where
we were to spend the night.

Soon it became so dark that the horses stumbled
on the rough road, and we had to slacken to a
walk. For a long time we saw nothing but each
other's dim figures and heard only the tramp of our
horses.

At last, at the village of Aram, lights shone
and dogs barked as we passed amongst its
palms.

After riding in the still night about an hour
longer, we again heard dogs barking and saw lights.
We were then near the oasis of Marath, where,
having ridden fully twenty miles, we were to rest
some hours and start again at sunrise for Gab^s.

BACK TO TUNIS 277

lu the caravan sarai — which resembled that of Bir
el Ahmer — a Spahi from Gab^s awaited me with a
fresh horse.

The lights in the house streamed from the rooms
into the courtyard. Within were some soldiers, who
had bivouacked round about a candle placed on the
floor. They came out, received our horses and
conducted me to an officer's room. Four bare walls ;
raised on masonry was a sloping plank-bed which
extended along the inner wall; besides this there
was a table and a bench.

A native, who was in charge of the place, I sent
to the oasis to buy me some candles. The soldiers
eagerly offered to lend me, till his return, their little
taper stuck in a bottle.

The Spahis then laid the table, and I dined, after
first dividing with them and the soldiers the eatables
with which I had been so sumptuously provided, for
no one knows better than I do how a small extra
ration tends to put a soldier into good-humour. I
have not forgotten the old days in South Oran when
1 was myself a mere private.

The Spahis and the four soldiers drew up in
line at the table, and 1 began the distribution — bread
and dates to the Mohammedans, and wine to the
soldiers, which I poured into the tin mugs they
held out to me, and to whom I gave also bread and
meat.

278 CAVE DWELLERS

" Right about face, march ! " I gave the order
involuntarily, and the troop at once vanished through
the door.

Soon the sound of gay voices singing reached my
ear from the adjoining room.

When I had finished my repast I lit a cigarette
and took a turn through the courtyard to have a look
at the horses, which still stood saddled and had not
yet been either fed or watered, they were so over-
heated from their journey.

Having given orders that they were to be un-
saddled, fed, and watered, I returned, and, lying on
the bed, listened to the singing.

I had rested but a short while when a smart
soldier entered, and, with his hand to his cap, asked
if he and his comrades might enliven the evening
for me, as if so, they would come in.

I agreed willingly ; so they came in, each carrying
his mug, and sat on the ground facing me.

After I had questioned them, asking each where
he hailed from, and had talked with them about a
soldier s life in the desert — a life I also knew some-
tliing of — I asked them to sing ; then the usual
barrack ballads with comic choruses woke the still
night. Afterwards I chatted again a little with
them, refilled their mugs which they emptied, wish-
ing me a happy journey, and then withdrew.

I wrapped myself in my burnous and slept, but

BACK TO TUNIS 279

was disturbed, first by the stamping of the horses,
and later by the noise of some carts being yoked in
the yard.

Before it was light next morning I was broad
awake. The soldiers made and brought me some
coflFee that I drank with relish, and it was just day-
break when, wrapped in my burnous, I got into my
saddle, after having inscribed my name in the
register. The soldiers stood at attention and saluted
as I bade them farewell and thanked them for the
songs they sang for me, while they, in return, wished
me a happy journey.

Our road was towards the north through the
palm groves of the lowland, where we now and again
crossed the dry beds of torrents that began in the
mountains.

After a couple of hours we traversed the Ketena
oasis, leaving other palm groves on one side.

Here the level of the country rose a little, and
far away on the northern horizon we could see the
palm forests that lie south of Gab^s, and now and
again caught a glimpse in the east of the sunlit
surface of the Mediterranean.

Presently the temperature became very sultry,
and a hot wind rose, which whirled the sand in our
eyes. This was the sirocco.

When we reached the high ground, where stands
the Marabout's tomb of " Sid Hamed ben-Habib,"

28o CAVE DWELLERS

and had passed its palms, we saw, through dust
clouds and flying sand, Gabes, looking like a white
riband in the distance, while behind us the palms of
the oasis waved in a long unbroken line from east to
west.

Soon after, we arrived, both tired and thirsty, at
Gab^s.

In the afternoon, when I was busy packing into
cases all the weapons, ornaments, and costumes I
had collected in the country, Arab visitors w^ere
announced.

This was no less than the Khalifa of El Hamma,
'*the mild, friendly" Khalifa, accompanied by three
of the Matmata mountain sheikhs. They had heard
that I was in the town and wished to greet me.

Their visit pleased me much, as a token of a
friendly feeling on the part of the natives.

I found seats for them all to the best of my
ability — the Khalifa on the bed, one of the sheikhs
on a low (thest, another on the floor, and a third on
a chair ; and then Moorish coftee and cigarettes were
served.

The conversation turned on my late experiences,
and I thanked them for their hospitality and received
the reply —

'' You will always be welcome amongst us."

" I am now going home," I said, " but perhaps
some day I may return, and then, my friends, I

BACK TO TUNIS 281

will seek you, and we may shoot wild boar in the
mountains towards El Hamma. Is it not so,
Khalifa ? "

" As you will, Sidi. We have horses and men,
and nothing you need shall be wanting," he replied
with charming courtesy.

When later in the day I paid a farewell visit to
Captain Simon at the Bureau Arabe, I found the
office crammed full of Arabs, who had been sum-
moned from the mountains.

As I pushed my way through them I caught
sight of first one, then other faces that I recognised.
In short, nearly all these brown-skinned chiefs with
dark eyes and black beards were known to me, and
each and all stretched out their hands in greeting.

"How is this?" said the captain. "Do you
know the whole of them ? "

"Yes, indeed," I answered with pride; "they
are my friends from the mountains."

On the 2nd November I left for the north
by the steamer Isac Fdrere. My good Hamed
helped me faithfully with my packing and the
embarkation of my numerous cases, and his figure
was the last that I could distinguish on the pier-
head.

The Isac Ferere crept slowly north, and reached
Tunis in four days. Life on board was pleasant
enough, for there were several officers with us, but,

282 CAVE DWELLERS

being so long accustomed to ride daily, I missed my
exercise.

We lay before Sfax for one day. The cavalry
officers of the garrison there came out in a boat to
call on Colonel Gousset and on us, dined on board,
and amused themselves with their comrades, or
fished for small fry from the deck or the accommoda-
tion ladder of the ship. To visit these ships twice a
week is their chief distraction. The sight of fresh
faces and the chance of hearing some news give a
little zest to their dull lives.

At Monastir the same happened, but here the
callers were officers of the Tirailleurs, and their
visit was evidently intended for a newly promoted
captain of their battalion, lately detailed for service
at Gab^s, whence he was now on his way to Tunis
to meet his wife.

It so happened that he, as a young lieutenant,
had served in South Oran through the same
campaign, but not in the same detachment, as
myself, so we had many amusing recollections in
common, and were soon good friends.

At Susa he invited me to land and visit his
comrades, but I was prevented doing so by the
quarantine imposed on account of the cholera then
prevalent.

Generally these quarantine regulations were
utterly senseless. The officials and the functionaries

BACK TO TUNIS 283

connected with shipping who came on board were
allowed to do so without being disinfected, whereas
the passengers from the ship who wished to land
had to undergo that process.

A lieutenant of the Tirailleurs, who had come
from Kairwan and was on his way to Tunis, came
on board. He told me of the frightful heat in the
country during the past summer. Yet he absolutely
preferred residing in the interior rather than on the
coast, the heat not being so distressing there and
the air purer and fresher, whereas the damp heat of
the coast was almost unbearable.

At Kairwan the temperature might rise as high
as 120° Fahrenheit, but one could rub along pretty
tolerably, though it was difficult to sleep at night
Want of sleep is, without doubt, the worst eflFect of
this climate, as it weakens and destroys the nervous
system.

I had informed the Danish Consul at Goletta,
by letter, when I should arrive, as he was of opinion
tliat it would be right for me to call on the French
Minister Resident, Rouvier, who had just returned
from France ; and also on the Bey, to thank them
for the brilliant receptions and the support afforded
me in consequence of their orders to the authorities
to assist me.

At Susa I received a telegram to the effect
that the Minister Resident would receive me next

284 CAVE DWELLERS

morning at nine o'clock, and would afterwards
conduct me to the Bey.

" Shall we arrive in time at Tunis? " I asked the
captain. He hoped for the best.

Steaming along the beautiful mountainous coast
in the early morning hours was enchanting. To our
left lay the mountains near Hamman-lif; before us
were the white walls of Goletta ; and to the right
the cathedral on the ruins of Carthage ; Marsa, and
the villas on the sea-coast. Beyond Goletta, we
could see, across the shining surface of the lake, the
white houses of Tunis and, behind them, the blue
mountains.

At eight o'clock we passed through the canal
and steamed up the lake to Tunis, but it w^as slow
work, for care has to be taken not to stir up the
water ; so working a ship in this harbour takes
time ; it was therefore twenty minutes to nine
before I landed, after having taken leave of Colonel
Gousset and the other officers.

A carriage took me full speed to the hotel, where
1 found my luggage and hurriedly changed my
clothes.

I kept my appointment punctually to the
moment.

CHAPTER XVII

Tunis

Monsieur Rouvier^ may be described as an un-
impeachable gentleman attired in black ; of his
statesmanship I will offer no opinion. He had only
just returned from Paris, and the Press had not
received him favourably. Evidently he had not
achieved all that had been expected of him, and was
attacked accordingly, but whether with or without
grounds I know not. In any case, it is said by
those who know him, that he, who had formerly
shown himself friendly to all, now began to be
haughty and distant in manner. He had perhaps
discovered that every man's friend is no one's
friend.

After having paid my respects to M. Rouvier, I
had, according to previous arrangement, to call on
His Highness the Bey. Our Consul was ill, and
could not present me ; I therefore drove alone to the
palace near the Kasba, outside which was a crowd of
carriages and waitinor Mussulmans.

The General of Division, Valenci, the Bey's

^ M. Hoiivier is newly appointed to Stockholm as French Representative.

235

286 CAVE DWELLERS

interpreter, received me, and with an insinuating
and aflFable smile clasped my right hand in both of
his, assuring me of the great pleasure it gave him to
see me.

Valenci is by birth a Jew, and was once a
tailor ; he became a favourite at the Court — how, I
know not — and was gradually promoted until he
was made a general, though he has never been in
command of a soldier, much less of a division.

As a matter of fact, the French soldiers regard
the Bey's oflScers with contempt ; they do not even
salute them unless they happen to be personally
acquainted with them. The Bey's entire army now
consists only of a bodyguard of some two hundred
men, who are paid by the French, and with whom
the old man is delighted, as they are well drilled
and equipped and regularly paid, so that they no
longer need to knit stockings when on guard, as in
old days.

Seldom have I seen a breast glitter with so
many orders as Valenci's ; his brilliant uniform was
— in front, at least — literally covered with large
crosses, bestowed on him by the many European
Powers, whose emissaries have been received by
him — as the Bey's chief interpreter — when presented
to the Bey. In the case of the " Legion d'honneur "
alone, he has to be content with a low rank, as of
that he is only an officer.

TUNIS 287

It must be admitted that praise is due to him
for his great tact and extraordinary discretion, on
account of which he has been allowed to remain in
his present position since the French occupation.

But now the great man appeared on the scene —
Rouvier, the real Regent of Tunis, who at one and
the same time is Premier and Minister for Foreign
AflFairs to the Bey, and also Representative of
France — that France which has made of the Bey,
the kind, amiable Bey ; a shadow king.

For him the drums beat and the guard presented
arms. The sound must, I think, strike with a
jarring note on the Bey's ear.

Whilst M. Rouvier stood beside the Bey, I
entered and thanked him for the great assistance
His Highnesses subjects had afforded me. I named
especially the Khalifas of Gab^s and Hadeij, and
gave a cursory account of my journey in the south.
General Valenci translated sentence by sentence.
The Bey replied, put questions, and expressed his
pleasure at my having been so well pleased. He
shook me warmly by the hand, the poor old shadow
prince with the white beard and kindly eyes, who
is led out now like a chained animal on his recep-
tion days.

Officially speaking, the Bey reigns over his
subjects without interference, but, in fact, he is
bound to be guided by his Minister's will.

288 CAVE DWELLERS

The Commander-in-Chief in Tunisia, a Brigadier-
General, is at the same time the Bey's Minister for
War ; thus all the political posts are filled by
Frenchmen. The Bey has Civil Governors in his
provinces, under whom are Khalifas, and under
them again Sheikhs. General Allegro at Gabes was
one of the first of these. These Governors exercise
supreme power in the Bey's name, but they are
watched by the ** controleurs civil" and the Intelli-
gence Department, so that in reality the administra-
tion is managed in accordance wdth the will of
the French, and the Governors are freed from
responsibility in the conduct of affairs.

But now peace and quiet reign over nearly the
whole country ; the plundering and fighting which
formerly laid the land waste has ceased, arms are
put aside, and trade flourishes, roads have been
improved and extended, and colonists arrive.

Before the French occupation, the tribes in
Tunisia were divided into two parties ("Sof"), of
which the adherents changed according to circum-
stances. One of these parties tenned itself the
Bey's, but only with the intent of being able to
plunder and rob the other with impunity.

At the head of what w^ere known as the in-
dependent tribes w^erc, as a rule, the Beni Zid, in
the neighbourhood of the oasis of El Hamma, wlio
pretend to be the descendants of a French renegade.

The French traveller Pellisaier, in his time, was
well received by them on that score, and they called
him cousin. Some years ago the Beni Zid seized
the Kasba at Sfax by a coup de main.

Again it was these independent tribes who
offered armed resistance to the French, though
certainly not always in great force or with much
success. After the
conquest of the
country, some thirty
thousand of them
emigrated across the
frontier into Tripoli,
whence they have now
mostly returned.

We have seen
that the tribe of
Urghamma, on the
Tripolitan frontier,
adhered ostensibly to
the Bey, but only that under cover of his name
they might commit the worst excesses.

After taking leave of the Bey I returned to my
hotel. Fii-st I glanced through my letters, and,
after a bath and having dressed, I enjoyed an
excellent breakfast, at which I met M. Gauekler,
who promised to help me make various purchases,
— which promise he faithfully kept. On the whole,

290 CAVE DWELLERS

I cannot sufficiently thank him for all his valuable
assistance. As it turned out that many of the
photographs I had taken were failures, he handed
me a collection of views of the whole of Tunisia,
photographed for the " Service des Antiquites," and
which had in great part been exhibited in Madiid
in 1892, and presented me with all those that I
selected, that I might make any use of them I
pleased. Thanks to his generosity, I am able to
adorn my book with many of these interesting
pictures. He also undertook the troublesome task
of bargaining on my account with the Jews and
Moors who were to pack all I had bought.

During my absence he had been engaged in
making excavations, and had brought back some
fine mosaics for the museum at Bardo. Under his
direction the latter will be enlarged, and will in
time contain some priceless treasures. A law now
prohibits the exportation of antiquities of any kind
to foreign countries. Still, under certain circum-
stances, exceptions are made, as, for instance, with
regard to some objects found at Carthage, which I
had acquired, and which, during my absence in the
south, were stopped at the custom-house ; but, on
our Consul applying to M. Gauckler, he had them
passed for me.

The remainder of the day I spent in the shops
of the Sok, and in paying visits, amongst others

TUNIS 291

to Drummond Hay, who had long expected my
return. I found him in his beautiful government
house, near the " Porte de France," where I also
called on his wife. They invited me to spend a
day with them in the country, where I had an
opportunity of thanking Drummond Hay for his
valuable assistance and advice, without which my
journey would have been made with no fixed pur-
pose, and, notwithstanding all the kindness and
hospitality so generously shown me, it might have
had a far less interesting result.

SUPPLEMENT

The Tribes of Tunisia — A Synopsis

From a geographical point of view the actual
Regency of Tunisia does not comprise an entire
country ; in features it does not diflFer from the
rest of Barbary, since its mountains form part of
the same system as those of Algeria and Morocco.
Its chief rivers have their sources in Algeria, and,
as in the above-mentioned countries, mountains, high
tablelands, and the belts of the Sahara succeed each
other from the north to the south, each with its
special aspect, climate, fauna, and flora.

But Tunisia is better situated than Algeria, for
its coast trends towards the south, thus bringing
every part of the country near the sea. For it is
a fact that the palm groves of the oases about
Gabds extend right up to the Mediterranean, and
there, though virtually in the heart of the Sahara,
one may yet feel the mild influence of the
sea.

The whole of Barbary is in a geological sense
sundered from the rest of Africa, being in reality
a continuation of Southern Europe, of which the

292

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 293

mountain formation is found again here. The climate,
therefore, resembles that of the Mediterranean lit-
toral. In the interior of Tunisia, indeed, it may
be extremely hot, but the average heat over the
whole country is about 76°. The winter lasts only
during the two months of January and February,
but the summer from May to October.

Barbary, from Cape Bon to Cape Nun, is every-
where peopled by a mixture of races, who differ
from each other in origin, customs, and character.

In the fruitful valleys of the northern coast
dwells an agricultural race, whilst the high lands
are chiefly peopled by nomads; and one again
finds the agriculturist in the southern mountains
and in the oases. All these different races have
settled in those spots where, according to their
circumstances and their temperaments, they were
most likely to find the means of existence.

The Berbers were the aborigines, and, although
they comprise more than two-thirds of the present
number of inhabitants, these peaceful agriculturists
— who have always been heavy in their movements
and slow at assembling — invariably succumbed to
the warlike Arabs from the high -lying plains.

The Arabs, when they left Arabia, moved from
the east towards the west.

A great number of negroes are also to be found
in Tunisia, brought principally from the Sudan

294 CAVE DWELLERS

as slaves. They are everywhere closely intermingled
with the native population.

Lastly, in the towns are found Jews and Mooi-s.
The latter are generally typiail of a mixed race ;
although the type in the different towns is com-
posed of many races intermingled, it assumes in
general a common resemblance. Their mode of
life, habits, hygiene, and surroundings have pro-
duced a hybrid race. In Tunis there are numbers
of Moors, and also in several other Berber towns.

In accordance with the results of the latest
researches, I will endeavour to give a short descrip-
tive sketch of the different peoples who at the
present time inhabit the Regency of Tunisia.

The Berbers.

The indigenous population comprised in the
races of Tunisia, and known generally as Berbers,
may be computed at about one million. They are
a hybrid people, the descendants of the " Libyans "
of Herodotus and Scylax, of the Mauri or Maurusii,
of the Ga)tulians, of the Romans, and of the Numi-
dians. All these races have nothing in common
with the Phoenicians. Herodotus already knew this,
and remarks that whereas the Libyans and Ethio-
pians were the original inhabitants of North Africa,
the Phoenicians and Greeks were immigrants.

It was long before any distinction was made

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 295

between the various racial groups of Berbers ; it
was only observed that there were amongst them
both fair and dark types. It was not until men
such as the archaeologist Tissot and the well-known
Duveyrier had broken the ground, and in later years
the famous anthropologists, Doctors CoUignon and
Bertholon, had succeeded in throwing light on the
native languages, that a way was opened which led
to a correct solution of the origin of the Berber
peoples, and their division into groups.

I made the acquaintance of Bertholon in Tunis ;
he is at present President of the Geographical
Society there, the '* Institut de Carthage." From
my conversations with him, and from the informa-
tion I acquired from his works and those of his
predecessors, I think I am able to indicate the prin-
cipal groups.^ Within these ate again included
lesser groups, not, however, needing special mention

here.

1. The Berbers of the oases (of the Neanderthal

type).

These are the Gsetuli of the ancients, who at
the present day live where they were found in
olden times ; that is in the southern oases — the
home of the date-palm.

This race, so far as can be ascertained, has always

* Anthropologie Criminelle des Tunisicna Musuhnans ; Lcs formes de la
famille chcz les premiers habitants dc VAfriq'kUi dn Nord ; Exploration
anthropologiqrie de la Khroumirie,

296 CAVE DWELLERS

inhabited El Jerid, to the west of Gab^s, for Sallust
mentions this people as dwelling there, and regarded
them as the oldest inhabitants of this country.

They are a peaceful and somewhat indolent race,
who cultivate their gardens and tend their palm
trees.

From olden times they have been maltreated by
the surrounding warlike nomads and mountaineers,
against whom they were incapable of defending
themselves. Indeed, they have frequently been
compelled to pay their tormentors largely to pro-
tect them from other predatory tribes.

They have, therefore, always been in a wretched
dependent position, which has tended to develop
their indolence, and has been the source of the
deterioration of their morals.

For instance, since olden days, they have had
a regular marriage law, but this institution has
little meaning for them, women being held in great
contempt, and the men not even doing them the
honour of being jealous of them. This state of
affairs can be accounted for by the tendency of the
men to form illicit connections. Foimerly, deceived
husbands were openly ridiculed in the oasis of Gofsa
and never took serious offence ; in fact, it was cus-
tomary to select as kaid one of those who had been
most compromised in this respect. The nominee
had to undergo a strange ordeal on his election. He

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 297

had to ride through the oasis on a donkey, seated
facing the tail, and wearing a grotesque head-dress.
Thus he was paraded to the great amusement of
the inhabifamts, and, perhaps, to his own satisfaction.

These kind of husbands are known in Tunisia
and Algeria alike as ** Tahan," the word signifying
not only he who is betrayed, but further, he who is
betrayed for the sake of gain.

2. The dark Berbers (Dolichocephalous, or long-
headed type), of short stature, like the Iberians,
the natives of the Mediterranean littoral, the Cro-
Magnon, and the Sordi types.

The Tunisian Berbers of this group closely re-
semble the natives of the Pyrenees and of Langue-
doc, and of the great islands in the Mediterranean
Sea. Their chief characteristic is a tendency toward
murder, feud, and fray.

In the three " arrondissements " of Ain Drahm
(in the Khrumir mountains), Bizerta and Kef, all in
north-west Tunisia, where this type prevails, no
less than forty-one murders and assaults were
committed last year alone, whereas in the whole
of the rest of Tunisia there were only twenty-nine.
This computiition includes only the crimes com-
mitted by natives. This propensity to shed blood
exists also amongst the kindred race north of the
Mediterranean.

It is startling to ol)scrvc that this temperament

298 CAVE DWELLERS

prevails wherever the brown dolichocephalous peoples
are found.

Other characteristics which they have in common
are their warlike disposition, their devotion to
agriculture, and their pronounced clannishness.

For example, when the French came to Tunisia,
the Khrumirs, the most typiad of the tribes
belonging to this group, were formed into three
leagues, composed of fifteen tribes, which w^ere again
subdivided into forty-three divisions, although the
whole population numbered only five thousand and
seventy-one persons, of whom only one thousand
four hundred and seventy were men capable of
bearing arms. In other words, there were only forty-
three armed men in each division.

The tribe Nefza in the same province had
innumerable chiefs of clans.

A peculiarity of the people on either coast of the
Mediterranean is their strong inclination to fetichism,
whatever may be the form of their religion.

The Khrumirs are Mussulmans only in name.
Their religion is confined to observing the fast
(Ramadan), and to a holy horror of all unbelievers.
They never pray, and are unacquainted with any
ritual. They own some Marabout tombs, enshrining
saints to whom peculiar influence is attributed, and
who are w^orshipped like positive idols.

One of these is adored because he takes care that

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 299

parents who ill-treat their children shall be punished
through his intervention.

Some punish perjurers.

Sid Abdallali-})en-Jemet, the famed Marabout, at
whose tomb the Khrumirs assembled to oppose the
French when these arrived in 1881, is, like many
others, celebrated for the cure of fevers. One
protects the crops, another is the special patron of
fountains. In short, all these Marabouts are wor-
shipped as lesser gods. Beneath Islamism, idolatry
flourishes as in olden days ; the gods have merely
changed their names.

Amongst the Khrumirs, family ties are very
slack, woman being regarded as a mere beast of
burden. Marriage can be dissolved with the
greatest facility. In many tribes a man can take
to himself a wife without the intervention of any
sort of authority. When the price agreed on —
generally a pair of oxen — is paid, the man takes his
bride home, and then invites the elders of his tribe
to a banquet.

Among the Ushetta a peculiar custom holds.
After their feast is concluded, the bridegroom and
his friends plunder all the tents of the "duar"
for edibles for another meal — continuing until they
can find nothing more to devour.

The woman is usually bought without her con-
sent being asked, and it often occurs that, just after

300 CAVE DWELLERS

a daughter's marriage, the father will request the
bridegroom to return the bride, as in the meantime
another man has oflFered for her a higher pric^.
Thus he sometimes gets double payment, as, when
a couple is compelled to separate, the purchase
money is not returned.

The intellectual condition of this people is of the
narrowest. Scarcely a hundred can be found who
can read, and few can count up to a hundred.
Neither have they any knowledge of what has
occurred in tlieir own country even within the last
century. Their industrial arts are primitive ; even
pottery-making is unknown.

The Khrumirs are extremely quarrelsome, and
are always fighting among themselves. No market
or feast can pass without blood being shed.

The abduction of women by armed men is
common. The comparatively unattached existence of
the women facilitates illegal connections. A great
number of these nomads have, therefore, as mistresses
married women, either in their own " duar," or in
the neighbourhood.

A Khrumir will rove at times both far and wide,
and even in winter will brave snow and bad weather to
reach his beloved. Formerly death was the punish-
ment inflicted on a woman whose guilt was dis-
covered ; since the French occupation they do not
venture to kill her, but she is severely chastised, or

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 301

sometimes handed over to her lover, who is forced
to pay to the betrayed husband the sum for which
he bought her. Still women continue now, as for-
merly, to be the primary cause of many a murder.

For "to die in your bed" the Ushetta say "to
die like a donkey."

The vendetta with all its consequences prevails
to a greater extent than in Corsica.

In some tribes it was the custom when a
mountaineer had been murdered, and after his death
had been sufficiently howled over, to slaughter a
sheep. Kinsmen and friends were invited, and all
those who partook of the meat united in an oath to
avenge the death. Blood money (dia) existed, but
was seldom accepted.

When it suited them, all individual diflFerences
were laid aside that they might unite to plunder in
fellowship. Anyone venturing amongst the Nefza
tribe in old days was immediately despoiled.

So lately as 1878, when the Aiivergne was
wrecked near Tabarka, all on board were com-
pletely stripped, even to their shoes. In 1885,
when another ship was wrecked at the same place,
its cargo was instantly pillaged, though under the
guardianship of the French authorities. Needless
to say, robberies are of daily occurrence. Even in
1888 an officer's horse was stolen on the road to
Ain Drahm, in the Khrumir mountains.

302 CAVE DWELLERS

The prevalence of theft hfis originated a peculiar
mode of earning a livelihood. Certain individuals
gain their subsistence entirely by pursuing and
finding stolen cattle. They follow the track of the
animals, mark the road taken, and, as a rule, dis-
cover where the booty is concealed. They often
oflFer terms to the thieves if these show signs of
fear, and thus extract money both from the man
who has been robbed, when they recover his pro-
perty, and from the thief, who pays not to be given
up. The robbers naturally commit murders and
other serious crimes, for to them the concealment
of their robberies is all-important. In 1888 two
Kabail were thus plundered and murdered by the
Khrumir. The latter had ordered their women to
burn the corpses, but an inquiry was made and all
was revealed, and subsequently three of the culprits
were hanged at Tunis.

Until the French in 1881 put a check on them,
the Khrumir were uncontrolled. When the Bey's
soldiers arrived to collect taxes, they were received
with gun-shots, and were generally compelled to
retreat.

Very often they defeated the Bey's whole army,
as in 1855, when they cut down Ahmed Bey himself
as he fled from them ; and when the Nefza mas-
sacred three hundred men in a pass north of Beja.

Even since the French occupation they have

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 303

broken out. When, in 1887, the officials who con-
trolled the tobacco monopoly went amongst them
to make certain inquiries, they rose in arms, and a
regular battle was fought in which men were both
killed and wounded.

To this day they frequently revolt against their
own chiefs, and very often kill them.

Like practical people they sometimes palm oflF
on the authorities a decrepit old man, who is hung
instead of the actual murderer.

They do not venture to make open war against
the French, but they wreak their vengeance by
setting fire to the grand cork-woods in the Khrumir
mountains, although aware that if caught and im-
prisoned they are undone.

Finally, we must bear in mind that, according to
Sallust, the mingling of the races of Gsetuli and
Berbers of short stature (the Cro-Magnon type)
resulted in the people known as the Numidians. In
ancient times they had no fixed dwellings. Thus
Polybius relates that Massinissa s greatest triumph
was that he had induced them to live in settled
abodes.

3. The fair-haired Berbers (Brachycephalous —
short-headed, the Grenelle and Celtic type).

(a) The Grenelle type is found in Spain and
probably in Morocco, as in Malta and on the coasts
of Tunisia.

304 CAVE DWELLERS

(&) Brachyceplialous Berbers of the Liguriau
type. In Tunisia these are found on the island
of Jerba, in the Matmatii mountains, and, again,
along the coast, more especially about Susa ; but
they are also scattered throughout the interior
of the country. They are akin to the Mozabit
and the Kabail, and to the old Celtic cognate
races.

The resemblance of these types to those of the
people on the corresponding northern shores of the
Mediterranean is very striking. The brachycephalous
population of the ancient " Gallia Cisalpina," in the
valley of the Ehone, in Auvergne, and in the Alps,
is of light complexion, and peaceful temperament,
for neither vendetta, coltetta, nor maflBa, nor, gener-
ally speaking, any similar description of crime, is
known amongst this people.

In Eastern Tunisia, along the coast from Susa
as far as the island of Jerba, the soil is, compara-
tively speaking, well cultivated. The Berbers there
wear a peculiar costume (narrow blue trousei-s and a
woollen coat, but rarely the burnous). The peaceful
agriculturists are, in some districts, also traders, and
in others remarkably good seamen. The region
they inhabit is therefore more highly civilised than
the rest of Tunisia, and most of the soldiers of
the 4th battalion of Tirailleurs are enrolled from
amongst these natives, since they lend themselves

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 305

better to discipline, and are more easily commanded
than the natives of Algeria.

On the whole, the agriculturist in Tunisia is
found only amongst the brachycephalous tribes. This
alone is a remarkable connecting link, but there
are many others which certainly indicate that on
both sides of the Mediterranean we find a cognate
race.

As the Auvergnats, the Savoyards, and the
Piedmontese leave their hearths and homes for a
while to earn money in various ways in European
towns — how many little Savoyards have we not
seen formerly in Denmark with their hand-organs
and marmots ? — so do the Berbers journey forth, the
Mzaboas, the Kabail, the people of the island of
Jerba, of Eastern Tunisia, or of the Matmata
mountains, to the towns on the south coast of the
Mediterranean to earn a substantial sum of money,
with which on their return home they may buy
palms, a few head of cattle, and — a wife. For
instance, at the Grand Hotel in Tunis I found a
couple of men from Duirat serving in the kitchen.

Like their brethren in France, the Berber traders
are born democrats.

Between their social organisation and that of the
Celts one finds more than one point of resemblance.

Thus there is a comparatively limited religious

spirit, combined with great superstition, equally
20

3o6 CAVE DWELLERS

amongst the Roman Catholic Auvcrgnats and the
Mohammedan Kabail.

On my way to Tunis I passed through Auvergne,
where I ol)served many old villages built on the tops
of hills. Tn the Matmata, and later in the Kabail
mountains, I was struck with the similarity of the
Berber villages to those I had seen in Southern
France.

Finally, I may remark that in many places on
the North African coast one sees stone cairns and
monuments that are strikingly like those found in
France, and, moreover, at home in Denmark also.

It stands to reason that in a country like Tunisia,
which since time immemorial has been inhabited by
so many different races, it is not always easy to
trace the various types when these are closely inter-
mingled. Still there may always be found amongst
these mixed peoples a few individuals who bear, in
a greater or lesser degree, the impress of a marked
racial tendency.

In the oases that lie towards the south-east, one
finds, for instance, brachycephalous Berbers inter-
mingled with the original Berbers of the oases — the
descendants of the Gaetulians.

One is soon struck with the consequence, amongst
others, of the high value set on the chastity of the
girls whom they desire to marry ; in direct contrast
in this respect to the dwellers in other oases.

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 307

In Central and Western Tunisia one finds not a
few Berbers mingled with the Arabs. Those who
are nomads live as do the aristocratic Arabs ; but
those who have fixed abodes are, on the contrary,
republican in thought and feeling.

They were originally governed by a "Jemda,"
or superior assembly, whose decrees were made in
accordance with local tradition (kanun), which was
regarded as law ; the kanun being held in even
greater honour than the Koran.

Since the French occupation, legal jurisdiction
has been established over the whole country, with
kaids, khalifas, and sheikhs, and a superior tribunal
in Tunis. This curtailment of their former liberties
has placed the Berbers on the same footing as the
Arabs, and has led to the disappearance of their
ancient institutions.

The Berber language is distinct from the Semitic.
It has now nearly died out in Tunis, and is sup-
planted by Arabic, but it still survives on the island
of Jerba, where at least one document exists written
in the ancient characters. Also I found it still
spoken in many of the villages near Duirat in the
Matmata mountains, but the written language is
absolutely forgotten there.

According to Tissot, this language is in the main
similar to all the dialects spoken in the Sahara by
the Tibu and the Tuareg right away from Senegal

3o8 CAVE DWELLERS

to Nubia, but of course not including the new dialects
spoken by the Negroes or Sudanese.

The Tuareg language is that which most nearly
approaclies that of the Berbers ; but those independ-
ent peoples, who call themselves Imoshag, Aniazigh,
Shloh, may be said to be more closely akin to the
Kabail, Zauau of Algeria, and the Berbers of Tunisia.

In my book, Algeria and the Sahara, I de-
scribed my travels through the Sahara, and at the
same time gave a short sketch of the Tuareg bands.
Here I will give from the best works ^ of French
travellers, but adhering as far as passible to Bertlio-
lon's account, a brief supplementary commentary on
the status of woman in these desert tribe com-
munities, for their position is quite diflFerent from that
occupied by their sisters in Mohammedan countries.

A Tuaren: woman exercises a decided riorht of
option in the matter of marriage. Indeed, without
her consent, and unless she herself has chosen a
husband, she cannot be given in marriage, and, in
spite of the Koran, she has found the way to prevent
her husband taking a second wife.

Amoncjst the Tuareoj tribes in the Western Sahara,
monogamy is so firmly established that it has given
rise to the followin'r adac^e : " The man who takes
two wives invites death to his tent."

^ Dtiveyrier, Les Tmmreg du Kord ; Captain Bissuel, Les Touareg de
r Quest : Ijargeau, Le Sahara Ahjerien,

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 309

Divorce, so easily obtainable amongst Moham-
medans, is almost unknown to the Tuareg, and is,
besides, very difficult of accomplishment. It can
only take place after the case has been submitted to
a court of arbitration composed of four persons — two
for each of the married pair.

The Tuareg woman is not her husband's slave ;
she is his equal, she sits beside him at meals, and can
take long journeys alone, for she is not shut up like
an Arab woman.

Whilst the man journeys afar with the caravans,
or on freebooting expeditions, she remains at home
to direct affairs. But this is not all, for she studies
old traditions, is highly enlightened, and far in
advance of the men in knowledge of old customs
and manners, and also of the art of reading and
writing the Tuareg language. In short, it is she
who preserves their traditions and is acquainted with
their literature, and indeed sometimes ranks as the
highest authority of the tribe.

Duveyrier relates that amongst the eastern Tuareg
the women take part in the councils when the tribes
assemble, just as did the Iberian women in ancient
days.

In the battlefield it is often dread of the women's
scorn which drives the men to make the utmost
efforts to return victorious.

" This trait reminds one of the Iberian maidens.

3IO CAVE DWELLERS

who chose their husbands from amongst the bravest
warriors."

Descent on the mother's side alone ennobles,
and the children belong to the family of the
wife.

For instance, the son of a nobly born woman and
a slave is acknowledged as free born, whereas the
son of a slave and a free man remains a slave. But,
in favour of the latter, certain tribes have created a
particular caste called ** Iradjenat," who, though yet
slaves, arc exempt from certain heavy labour.

It must be added that the women have entire
control over their own property.

Inheritance in the tribes goes from a man to his
])rother, and, in default, to the son of a sister, but
never to the direct progeny.

In such communities misconduct on the part of
women is not tolerated, it is simply punished with
death. Captain Bissuel relates that a native of the
province of Setif killed his sister by order of his
father, they having learnt that she was leading a
dissolute life. Both ftither and l)rother mourned for
the poor culprit, but were convinced that they had
only done their duty.

On the other hand, according to Duveyrier, the
Tuareg lawfully claim le droit du seigneur from
their female slaves, before these marry.

The same custom is mentioned by Herodotus as

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 311

obtaining amongst the Adyrmachidse in the neigh-
bourhood of Egypt.

The western Tuareg regard this custom as des-
picable.

The Tuareg have to give their wives a dowry,
which varies in amount. The western Tuareg, for
instance, give at least six camels, a negress, and a
complete costume.

These are the principal features of Tuareg customs.
They have many points in common with those of
the mystical Amazons and the Iberians of antiquity.

Even now among the Basques the man plays a
subordinate part. The woman rules and controls
the house. "The husband is her head servant,"
who brings to the house only himself and his labour,
together with a stipulation for progeny.

The Arabs.

The Arabs in Tunisia are, like those in Algeria,
nearly all nomads. They reside chiefly in the
southern and central portions of the Regency.

They are rec^ognisalJe by their tall, slender figures,
their lean, nuiscuhir build, and by their dignified
nobility of carriage.

The Arab cast of countenance is narrow, the nose
curved, the lips thin and graced by a delicate black
beard, the black eyes are lively, but the expression
crafty.

/

312 CAVE DWELLERS

The Arab woman is endowed with a pretty, well-
formed figure, but she is of small stature. She is,
on the whole, attractive, but fades early, being old
and ugly through hard work by the time she attains
her twentieth year. Unlike the Berber woman, she
is usually obliged to go abroad veiled.

As the Bey was too weak to collect his own
taxes, he united the various groups of nomad Arabs
to form his auxiliary troops. These tribes were
thence designated **Mahzen," were almost exempt
from taxation, or only paid in kind, such as oil,
dates, etc. In return they bound themselves to
fight the robber bands (Jish) who frequently harassed
the country. Were they victorious, all spoils were
theirs. Their ostensible duty was to assist the Bey's
own soldiers to recover the taxes. This collection
resolved itself into sheer plunder. The least of their
perquisites was the right to "diffa" and "alfa,"
which means hospitality for themselves and their
horses ; of this they took advantage to the
greatest extent, often pillaging wherever they
appeared.

For instance, the holy city of Kairwan was oft^n
conipc^llod to raise forced contributions under this
pretext.

Their morals, as a rule, are very lax. The al)-
duction of married women and girls is common, and
adultery a matter of course.

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 313

The upbringing that an Arab woman receives in
a tent is not exactly calculated to ensure in any way
a moral tone. A young girl is from the very outset
of her innocent life apt to see and learn much that
to us appears offensive.

Whereas the man has every possible right of
control over his wife, she has only the "justice of
God" (el hak Allah), meaning that he must fulfil
his obligations towards her as her husband, failing
which she can demand a divorce, not an infrequent
occurrence.

After the enactment of the law emancipating
slaves, the men in some tribes married their
negresses, with a view to thus evading the law.
But it befell that the former went into court and
complained that they were defrauded of their rights
as wives.

Although the Arabs, as aliens, have always been

in a minority in the land of the Berbers, yet they

were the masters until the arrival of the French.

They had steadily spread themselves over all the

open plains and lower tablelands, moving ever from

east to west. Thus each tril)e continually changed

its territory, one tribe ever pressing another before

it farther westward.

Long before Mohammed's day this immigration

had already begun, but it was not until after his

time that it made any real headway, and the con-

314 CAVE DWELLERS

quest of the country and its conversion to Mobam-
meJanism took place.

Not until much later, in the middle of the
eleventh century, was the great migration accom-
plished, in which both Mongols and Egyptians were
included. Such great waves, however, always cause
a counter wave. When the tribes reached the shores
of the Atlantic ou the most distant coasts of
Morocco, the tide turned. Thus tho tribe that
claims to be the chief of all the tribes, namely, the
Shorfa, or " Followers of the Prophet," is precisely
that which, having been to Morocco, returned east-
wards.

Yet another receding wave brought l)ack the
"Aralw" wlio had conquered Spain, and who were
aftL-rwards driven forth again.

These Spanish "Arabs" were for the most part
Berl)ers who liiwl been carried westward by the tide,
and who returned, after a long sojourn on the
Iberian peninsula, blended with other races —
fiigurians, Iberians, Celts, and Western Goths.

'I'lie greater projiortion of these refugees, who
are known in Barbary as " Andnhiz," cRtabliRhed-i
theniKf'lvcs in the towns, where Uu'V introduced i
new strain into the already mixed race of Moon. ■
Tliese S|ianish Moors are more e.-^pecijilly represenM
in Tunis.

It is quite natural that, in a country bo ofg

THE TRIBES OK TUNISIA 315

invaded and peopled by foreigners who to this day
have never really anmlgamated, there should be an
entire lack of patriotism such as is found in Europe.
It is as Mussulmans that these races have united to
make war against the Christian. Amongst them-
selves they are often at enmity.

Mohammedanism.

Though it is an undoubted fact that the various
races of Berbers aud Arabs have preserved much of
their identit)', it is also notiecfvble that, to a stranger
arriving in the country for the first time, the in-
habitants appear, as it were, to be fused into one
race. This fusion is the result of their crectl, for
Mohammedanism has been drawn like a veil over
the whole country.

Moliannued, through the Koran, gave to even
daily labour the stamp of religion, and in a marvellous
way moulded all the various races, who thus became
" the faithful," into one mode of thought and life,
which gradually shapeil them all to one pattern,
although hereditiiry inclinations and customs con-
tended, and are still contending, against such con-
straint.

The features which appear most strongly marked
in these various nicew wlio have hcf'omi: MilssiilmaiiM,
are their iudividmil abaorption in their vcliginii ami
their family org

3i6 CAVE DWELLERS

The stubborn influence of Islamism on the com-
munity is entirely expressed in the phrase " Mektub "
(it is written). Fatalism has destroyed all initiative,
all progress. How men may act is immaterial. " It
is written."

To the Mussulmans, authority is of divine origin.
Their creed ordains that everyone must bow to
authority. This has given rise to the most complete
absolutism, alike from the Bey, whose title is " The
chosen of God and the owner of the kingdom of
Tunisia," down to the lowest of officials.

But yet the yoke may prove too heavy — then
the oppressed revolt, as has so often happened.

The influence of religion is manifest in the treat-
ment of the insane, whose utterances are held as
sacred. The number of real and pretended lunatics
is consequently very great. Hospitality is not
exactly gladly otfcred to such afflicted persons, but
they are permitted to take whatever they please
from a house, a liberty often very widely interpreted.
Latterly a madman in Tunis declared several houses
to be under a l)an. All the inmates at once fled,
and could not be persuaded to return. This indi-
vidual was also inspired with the sublime idea of
erecting a barricade in one of the most populous
streets, by means of doors which he lifted from their
hinges.

The Prophet organised the family on the lines

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 317

best adapted to the nomad tribes, who were destined
to be great conquerors. He ordained the absorption
of the vanquished into the family ; while the males
were killed or, if fortunate, made slaves, the women
were allowed to enter the family.

This was the foundation of the rapid conquest of
North Africa by Islam.

To ensure unity in the family, composed of so
many and varied elements, the man is invested with
the most absolute authority. He does not marry
but he buys his wife, who becomes his property.
He is unquestionably her lord and master, he can
maltreat her, kill her if she is untrue to him, without
risking injury to a hair of his own head. All that
he owes her is the " liak Allah."

Crimes against women are more rare now through
fear of the French ; but as there is no legal census,
many murders may be committed which are never
brought to light.

Religious influence first and foremost, also life in
common under equal conditions of many generations
of different extraction, have obliterated many of the
characteristics of the natives of Tunisia. Many
Berber tribes have been entirely transformed into
Arabs, and, on the other hand, many Arab tribes
have been Berberisod. Indeed, there are tribes
forming a subdivision, of which it is well known
some are Berbers, some Aral)s.

3i8 CAVE DWELLERS

Of the religious brotherhoods, ao numerous else-
where under Islam, tliere arc comparatively few in
Tunisia. Wc find the " Tidyanya," " Medauiya,"
and the "Aissaua," anil, hesides these, many skit-
tered " Sliorfii.'"

In the towns there is more fanaticism tliau in
the country. In this respect " those who can read
and write are the worst."

Yet many customs and reminiscences may l>e
found of a former age before Mohammedanism was
forced on the Tunisians.

For instance, the people hang bits of rag all over
sacred trees; many fear the "evil eye," or honour
jive as a peculiarly lucky number. For this i-eason
they set the mark of their own five fingers on their
houses to protect the latter. Indeed, it is not un-
common for a man who has more than five children,
if questioned as to their number, to reply that he
has five, rather than be obliged to name an unlucky
number.

If rain is long delayed, they take refuge in cxor-
cism, and wiU on occasion even dip their kaid in a
fountiiiu HO that his beard may be wetted — that
Rurely brings rain.

Tbb Moobs.
Nowhere has all origin of race been so entirely
ss iu tlie towns. There have sprung up the

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 319

Moors — quite a new race of town dwellers, which
may be said to have absorbed all others.

Whereas the population of the interior of the
country to a great extent escaped intermixture with
the new elements, up to the time of the arrival of
the Arabs, it has been quite otherwise in the towns,
where foreign traders settled and intenningled with
the native inhabitants.

Amongst the Moors in the towns are found, as
has been said, the so-called "Andaluz," who w^ere
driven out of Spain. Several of these distinguished
families have carefully preserved the records of their
genealogy, and some of them still possess the keys of
their houses in Seville and Granada. They have
certainly intermarried with other families of different
origin, but still cling to their traditions, and retain
and exercise to a certain extent the handicrafts and
occupations of their forefathers in Spain. The
gardeners of " Teburka," for instance, are descend-
ants of the gardeners of the Guadalquivir, and the
forefathers of the pott<3rs near Nebel were potters at
Malaga.

The blood of slaves of all nationalities has
also been introduced into the people known as
Moors.

The complexion of the Moor is fair, or, more
rarely, olive ; it resembles that of the Southern
Italian or Spaniard. The shape of the head is oval

3ao CAVE DWELLERS

the nose long, and they have thick eyebrows and
very black beards. Of medium height, they are well
built, and their carriage is easy and graceful. They
lire considered more honourable than either Jews or
Christians, and were noted formerly for their kind
treatment of their slaves. Though clever workmen
and well educated, their moral tone is not high. In
old days the town of Tunis was the great market
frequented by the people of the Sudan ; nothing was
considered worth having that had not been made by
n Tunisian.

The Turkish element, as represented by the Bey
and Ilia surroundings, has long since ceased to have
any influence on the Moorish race in Tunisia, No
real Turks are now to lie found in the country. In
the towns, however, are a few descendants of Turkish
.soldiers and Tunisian women ; they are called
" Kurughis," and arc lazy, vain, and ignorant, and
conaequently not much respected.

The Moors, or the town dwellers, on tiie w^hole,
are, however, not so vigorous and energetic aa the
nomads and tlie mountjiiucers ; their manners are
more effeminate, and they are lazier.

Crimes against the person, such as assault or
muitler, are rare in the towns, but drunkenness on
the sly is common, and immorality is prevalent.

the tribes of tunisia 321

The Jews.

The ancient conquerors of the country, the Car-
thaginians and Romans, who covered it with towns,
forts, and monuments, have left no impress of them-
selves on the appearance of the present inhabitants,
nor do there survive amongst the tribes any tradi-
tions concerning them.

No more remains to recall the Vandals and
Goths, yet the latest researches prove the existence
in early days of other Semitic peoples besides the
Arab.

The earliest importation to the country of Semitic
blood was doubtless the Phoenician. To this is due
the fact that many of the types portrayed on
Chaldaic and Assyrian ruins are now found scattered
throughout Tunisia.

At the same time as the Phcenicians may be
mentioned the Jews, the earliest of whom probably
came to Barbary at the same time as the former,
but their number was largely added to later, after
the conquest of Jerusalem by Titus. Moreover, it
is known that many Berber tribes were converted to
'Judaism and remained iTews, even after the Arab
conquest The classic type of European Jew is
therefore nircly met with in Tui

After the Moliamnietlanb the Jews arc, iiumeri-
cally, moBt otTODgly reMBM^'^ '" Rftrhnrv They

322 CAVE DWELLERS

form somewhat important communities, not only in
the town of Tunis, but also in all other towns, even
in the island of Jerba. Possibly with theirs has
mingled the blood of the ancient Carthaginians.

There are also a great number of Jews whose
ancestors were ejected from Spain and Portugal ;
these are called *' Grana,'' from their former most
important trading city in Spain.

These ^'Grana" were under the protection of the
foreign consuls, and therefore have had nothing to
complain of; but the old Jews were in a disastrous
condition in former days, and suffered much, so much
that some isolated families abjured Judaism and
became Mohammedans ; such they are still, but they
always associate with their former co-religionists.
Other Jews — those of Jerba, for instance — have
modified their religious forms, pray to Mohammedan
saints, and hold their Marabouts in honour.

A peculiar head-dress distinguishes those Jews
who are under no protection, from those who are pro-
tected by the consuls. It is an irony of fate that
many Jews have placed themselves under Spanish
protection, because they knew that Spain was their
home in old days. Now they are protected by
the country that formerly drove them forth. Some-
what similar is the ciise of the Algerian Jews in
Tunis who seek French protection.

All the Jews of Tunis retain the ancient Spanish

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA 323

ritual. They are peaceful and well behaved, and
not so grasping as others of their faitli, but they are
clever at taking advantage of a good opportunity
when there is a prospect of making money, or when
their trade may be extended. Commerce is there-
fore in great measure in their hands.

In the whole Regency of Tunisia there are over
fifty thousand Jews, and their numbers increase
rapidly. In the town of Tunis there is a " ghetto/*
the quarter formerly devoted to them, and where
they were compelled to dwell. It has long since
become too small, and the Jews have now spread
over all the other quarters, and in the bazaars have
wrested from the Moors many of their shops.

This Jewish community is an interesting study,
and one is astonished to find how in many respects
they so little resemble their co-religionists in other
countries.

COSTUMES

The Dress of the Countrywomen
( Arabs — Berbers)

Over the whole of Tunisia the countrywomen,
whether Amb or Berber, wear a similiir costume,
which must be almost identical with that worn
by the Grecian women in oldeu days.

The dress of the women of ancient Greece
consisted of what was known as the "peplos"'
{■trhrXot), a white wrapper gathered in by a belt
about the waist (£<»i^), and supported on the
shoulders by pins {irepavat and ewTot), As head-
dress, or for ornament, they wore a kind of fore-
head band (xp^Se/ipov) or veil, and, in addition to
these, earrings, necklets, bracelets, etc. etc.

The " peplos " was a large piece of stuflf without
mtaa, which was folded round the body from one
side.

The dress of a Tunisian woman of to-day is

Llie same. It cou.sista of a '* m'lhalfa," which re-

meojbles tbe " peplos." being a long narrow piece

I wound rouml the body in such a manner

^ £. F. linji-suti'H HamOixA on Grtdt AiUiquilia.

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN 325

that it entirely covers the back and shoulders.
One end is brought over the breast, and hangs
down in front ; tlie other end covers the lower
limbs, and forms a skirt. The piece is so long
that it hangs in folds, which partly conceal the
sides. . Whilst the Greek " peplos " was held to-
gether by " fibulae " on the shoulders, the clasps
that confine the "m'lhalfa" are placed rather forward
— over the breast. The Grecian woman's neck
was bare, her chest covered. But it is the contrary
with the Tunisian woman. In other words, the
"m'lhalfa" is merely a "peplos" which has been
drawn forward. Many Tunisian women draw the
"m'lhalfa" over the breast, and arrange one end
to form a full drapery ; others, as in the Matmata
villages, omit this, but wear over their bosom a
thin square of stuff called "katfia." This is
secured by the clasps already mentioned.

In a few places, such as the Khrumir moun-
tains, the "m'lhalfa" is composed of two pieces
of stuff worn one in front and one behind, held
together by the breast clasp. Over the neck and
shoulders is laid a rather large towel. The
"m'lhalfa" is always bound in at the waist by

a long woollen belt, generally white or of some
bright colour.

The clothes for daily wear are, as a rule, of a

dark blue woollen material, but for festivals or

3a6 CAVE DWELLERS

weddings they wear red, yellow, or parti-coloured
garmeuts of silk, cotton, or wool.

In most regions a kerchief is worn on the head
(tadchira) ; round this ia wound a turban (assaba),
composed of a long piece of stuff oraamented with
coins or trinkets. Over this again is thrown a
large, often embroidered, cloth, in which the face
is enveloped (begnuk).

Generally speakiug, the Tunisian women wear
no underclothing, at all events not in daily life in
the country. On festive occasions, especially in
the towns of the oases, they assume a white shirt
(suiera). It has very short or no sleeves. A
bride, as a rule, wears one. The bridal shirt
(gomedj) is generally embroidered about the open-
ing at the neck in silk or cotton, in stripes of
black, yellow, blue, and red.

In daily life they do not wear slioes, but go
barefoot. At the feasts the women put on yellow
shoes without heels (balglia).

The ornaments worn by the poor are mostly
of brass, copper, or horn ; by those in better cir-
cumstances, of silver; or sometimes by the rich, of
gold,

Kound the neck are worn strings of glass beads,
and in the ears large slight earrings ("■ kliuras,"!
from cross) ; on the wrists, broad open bracelete
(addidc). Finally, they wear large heavy auk

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN 327

called " kralkral," that are generally made not to
meet.

To fasten the "m'llialfa" on the shoulders large
brooches are commonly employed. These are in
the form of au open circle, through which passes
a pin (khlel).

On the breast they wear a silver chain (ghomra),
from whieli depend coins or flat plates of raetal.
These chains are fastened to the breast-pins. All
these ornamenta are made by the Jews of the towns
or oases, and are really artistic productions.

The women do not usually wear straw hats, though
some may amongst the Bcrbt;rs of the island of Jerba.
Tliese hats are precisely similar to those depicted
on some of the Tauagra figures found in Greece.

In Jerba are woni crescent-shaped breast orna-
ments, said to come from Tripoli ; also ornaments
in filagree work from Zarsis.

The women often carry a little looking-glass
tied to their breast-pins, and also the requisites
for applying henna and kohol.

When they fetch water in tlieir great pitchers
they carry these slung on their backs by means
of a wide band round the forehead, or in tlie
end of their turban, loosened for the purpose.

Their hair is never plaited, but is covered by
I the cloth or turban. A woman is rarely seen in
In ft few places where the roads are

328 CAVE DWELLERS

bad they wear wooden shoes. The Khnirairs are
proficient in making these.

Much of the material employed in the women's
dress is woven or made by themselves in the region
in which it is worn, but some is brought from
Tripoli, the Sudan, or from Europe. As a rule,
however, the countrywomen wear only their own
handiwork.

In the Matmatii mountains and the neighbouring
oases I was able to collect and buy a complete
costume, the whole of which had been made in
that region, and chiefly of native materials.

It must be mentioned that the Berber women
have everywhere more freedom than their Arab
sisters, and are therefore often unveiled. Yet many
of the tribes have gradually adopted Arab customs,
and in this particular follow their example — at all
events in the vicinity of a town, for in the country
the women all go unveiled, only hiding their faces
on occasion.

We will now examine the dress of the men, both
Arabs and Berbers.

In contradistinction to the Kabail of Algeria, the
Aral)S always cover their heads. In Tunis, where
the races are so mixed, nearly all the men go
covered. They wear white cotton caps under the
red " shashia," allowing a narrow edge of white to
appear beneath the latter.

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN 329

The Arabs always wear a haik or burnous ; the
Berbers, generally.

The burnous, as is known, consists of a cape
united at the breast.

The " haik " is a piece of thinner stuflF, which is
worn as a drapery, usually under the burnous, but
also alone.

In the southern mountains of Tunisia I found
that many of the mountaineers wore, instead of
burnous or haik, a piece of stuff without hood or
seam. In this they draped themselves so that the
head was covered. It was usually of brown or grey
wool. The burnous is as a rule white, as is also the
haik. Many of the poorer folk, especially amongst
the Berbers, wear nothing else in daily life ; but
they assume a shirt, waistcoat, and coat, as also a
gala burnous (sjebba) on festive occasions. This
last is shorter than the real burnous, and is made
with short wide sleeves, of bright coloured stuflF,
often embroidered in silk.

The people on the coast near Susa and to
the south have a still shorter brown -hooded gar-
ment in place of a haik or burnous, and they
wear trousers. This costume is convenient for
fishermen.

A large broad-brimmed straw hat is worn by
the denizens of the plains. Shoes or sandals of
morocco leather or hide are worn by many.

330 CAVE DWELLERS

Red morocco leather boots, worn inside a shoe,

are used by riders, also spurs.

The purse is a long, narrow, knitted or woven
bag.

The Berber often wears a shirt, and, in such
cases, only a haik over it, and no burnous.

The usual costume of the Arab is that worn in
Algeria — the burnous and the haik, the hitter
bound on with a camers-hair cord ; shoes (or boots).
Of the Berber, shirt, haik, burnous, bare legs, and
uncovered head.

Such variations of these costumes as may exist
in Tunisia have been brought about by an altered
mode of life and the admixture of races.

Dr. Bertholon declares that most of the costumes
are of very ancient origin. That of the Jews, for
instance, he dates back to the days of the Cartha-
ginians ; the burnous, he says, resembles the hooded
Roman cloak.

The Moorish woman's dress is very pretty, but
extremely coquettish. It is overladen with ornaments.

•' In the morning she wears a very scanty cos-
tume. If one has the luck to catcli a glimpse of her
at an early hour as she moves hither and thither in
the harem, she is not easily forgotten. She is clad
in a simple shirt, with short sleeves, which leave
her plump arms exposed. Under this she wears
trousers, so short that they scarcely reach the knees ;

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN 331

a little shawl, of which the ends are knotted in
front at the waist, replaces a skirt, and enfolds her
pretty form. Her bosoms are supported by a narrow
bodice, and about her hair is bound a silk kerchief,
but her locks fall down over her neck" (Des Godins
de SovJiesnes).

When she leaves the house she wears a " gandura,"
a kind of cloak of transparent material, fastened on
the shoulders by gold or silver pins. Besides this
she has put on wrinkled white linen trousers reach-
ing to her ankles ; over her head she throws a white
kerchief; and, lastly, she conceals her face with a
long embroidered veil.

The Moorish woman blackens her eyebrows,
enhances the beauty of her eyes with antimony
(khol), and stains with orange-red henna the nails
of her fingers and toes and the palms of her hands.

The dress of the Moor much resembles that of
the Jew. He wears a tasselled cap (shashia), sur-
rounded by a turban, and a silken vest or coat,
embroidered in gold or silver.

The trousers are very wide, and fall in heavy
folds ; the lower part of the leg is uncovered, and on
his bare feet he wears broad shoes of red or yellow
morocco leather (babush).

The costume of the Jew^s, as worn by them before
they were free, to distinguish them from the Arabs,
is very picturesque, and, fortunately, still universal.

332 CAVE DWELLERS

The men, who are generally handsome, wear a
tiisselled shashia, often surrounded by a turban.
Their wide, pleated Turkish trousers reach a little
below the knee, and are secured at the waist by a
Ijelt. They wear also coat and waistcoat, stockings,
and shoes.

• Many have now adopted European attire, but
the characteristic Jewish type is easily distinguished.

The Jewish women are not veiled. They wear
shirts, narrow embroidered silk trousers, cotton

■

stockings, shoes, and on their heads a pointed cap.

These women, when young, are very pretty, but
also very immoral. They are generally spoilt by
being too stout, young girls being fed up to make
them attractive for their wedding.

There is no native industry peculiar to Tunisia,
but there are a few which may be considered worth
notice.

The holy town of Kairwan is famed for its
beautiful carpets. In Gefsa and Jerba also curious
and l)eautiful carpets are woven.

Clay ware is a speciality of Nebel, where, to this
day, pottery is made that recalls that found in the
Phoenician and Roman tombs near Carthage. Pot-
tery is also made at Jerba in the form of jars, vases,
etc., which are sent to different parts of the country
— northern Tunisia ol)taining its pottery from
Nebel ; southern, from Jerba,

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN 333

Amongst tlie tribes, pottery is also made by the
women and negresses, but generally without the aid
of the potter s wheel. The Khrumir in particular
are noted for their peculiar ornamented pottery.

In the towns, moreover, and especially in Tunis,
there are numbers of shoemakers, leather workers,
saddlers, harness and pouch makers, etc. etc. There
are also excellent dyers and makers of perfumes.

In the oases are made fans, and baskets of palm
leaves and of alfa straw ; baskets, hats, and great
crates for corn, which take the place in these regions
of the clay jars of the Kabail.

Tripoli lies quite close to Tunis, and there manu-
factures attain a high level ; a great quantity there-
fore of stuffs — carpets and worked leather articles —
are imported thence. The Jews are the goldsmiths,
and, even in the interior and in the southern oases,
possess the art of making pretty bracelets and
ornaments.

The inhabitants of Zarsis arc renowned for their
peculiar filigree work.

POSTSCRIPT

The information adjoined regarding the number
of souls included in each of the Berber tribes,
and of their domestic animals, came to hand only
after the first portion of my book had gone to
press. I therefore add it here. This information
has been collected with great pains throughout
the Government of El Arad by tlie kindly help
of M. Destailleur, Controleur Civil to that Govern-
ment. It is positively reliable, the calculations
which I was able to make in person during my
stay in several of the villages, with the same view^
corresponding exactly to those in the table. Only
— as an outsider — I must aver that the number of
horses may not be quite correct, but for some
places appears computed too low. As for instance
in Hadeij, where, it is said, none are to be found,
which was certainly not the case. Possibly the
explanation may be that the sheikhs feared that
the inquiry made by the Government arose from
a desire to know how many mounted men this
tribe could place in the field in time of war.

334

POSTSCRIPT

335

Names of Tribes and Villages.

o

a o

o
CO

a?

3

a
o

e8

E

eS

/

c

Jara
Mcnzel .
Shenini
Ghonush
Bu Shma
Udref .
Metaia .
Tebulbu
Zarat .
Ghraira
Alaia .
Hazem .
Hamernas
Gassur .
Debdaba
£1 Begla
Shclahsha
Matniata
Shehel .
El Heurja
Zauia .
/'Tujud .
Zania .
Dohibat
Ben Aissa
Guelaa Ben Aissa
Smerten
Beni Saltan .
Tujan .
Uied - Sliman -

Hadeij
Lasheish
Taniczred
Netfat .
Accara .
Tuasin .
Khezur .
Ghomra8en .
Shenini-Duirat
Guermasa

Hamidia .

Uled-Debab

Dcghagha

Uled Sbada .

Suabria-Duirat

Ikni I^rka .

Zedra .

Gatufa .

Uled-Lazareg

Uled-Aun

Uled-Ashiri

Quad id .

Duiri .

a

s

V

eS

1925
2200 j
1040 I

350 >
50

750
1800

235

165

450

232
1229

2100 :

900 I

1390 I

1455

1689

1000

1100

1000

868

210

604

100

340

495

105

632

1071

1300
1020
1082
3830
5496
2461
3411
1376
410
460

287
389
585

330
153
12.-.
117
130

500

600

300

100

20

280

200

45

45

100

80

210

600

140

116

432

400

120

150

140

820

15

55

20

25

40

10

43

51

200

120

50

826

750

1203

890

565

80

80

60
150
250

125

7

25

25

30

302 100

125
1357

30
63

40

60

2

4

• •

70
20
25
55

4
67
70
22

8

30
27
3
26
45

« • •

73
80

200
223
100

46
250

15

150

3

20

30

10

I
12
15

4
54

Hones.

a

100

40

36

40

25

80

8

8

• • •

10

8

120

10

100

4

38

3

12

8

890

• • •

20

36

240

37

300

20

60

40

92

41

535

96

1400

20

400

25

1200

30

420

85

800

2

55

1

207

2

60

3

66

3

116

1

25

1

55

3

169

• • •

300

6

263

7

400

221

3371

110

1335

600

6945

142

1353

43

684

3

300

8

170

25

255

20

200

34

300

42

320

2

32

2

60

1

14

4

11

• • •

50

300

4

80

10

280

1 •

u

oo

700

410

185

200

80

450

600

860

1000

1450

361

2880

2100

850

620

1830

10.000

1800

2500

2000

8000

520

718

1000

311

410

266

200

1000

2700
2036
4600
9926
6060
15,263
9745
2848
1960
1150

890

: 2000

300

I 1200

i 800

240

360

400

11 00

600
3400

9

40
90
30
40

• • •

2
60

1
10
19

2
1

8
2
4
3

WAY 1 ^ ^^Vl

PRIKTKD HY
MORRiaON AND OIBB LIMITBD, EOIITBUBOB.

[Just Published.

Two Vols, demy 8vo, with
Portraits and Maps, 24s.

THE

HISTORY OF CHINA.

BY

DEMETRIUS CHARLES BOULOER,

Author of
"The Life of Gordon/' "The Life of Sir Stamford Raffles^'

etc. etc.

NEW AND REVISED EDITION. WITH PORTRAITS

AND MAPS.

** This work is much more than a new edition of the principal history of
China in the English language. It is in some respects a new work. It is
now over fourteen years since Mr. Boulger published the third volume of the
first edition. Our chief objection to that work was that the volumes, owing
to the thickness and coarseness of the paper used, were so unwieldy that
their usefulness for reference was seriously impaired. This is corrected Jn
the new edition, which, though it contains a good deal more matter, includ-
ing a very full and careful narrative of the events connected with China
which have crowded themselves into the last fifteen years, consists of two
handy and extremely well-printed volumes, which deserve to be in the hands
of all who are interested in the present and uncertain future of that extra-
ordinary empire and people. . . . Mr. Boulger has been a careful student
of, and a copious writer on, Asiatic matters for more than twenty years, and
his intimate personal knowledge of most of the chief actors in recent times on
the great stage of Chinese affairs — Gordon, Parkes, Wade, Macartney, Li,
Tseng, and many others — lends special interest to the greater part of his
second volume. These eminent persons are not in his hands mere figures
who move their allotted course on the stage, but men of flesh and blood with
whom he has discussed and debated the great events in which they shared or
in the presence of which they livetl. // is mtuh to have written a history of
China which does not contain a dull page from beginning to end^ and this
Mr. Boulger has done.^* — Manchester Guardian.